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gl1500 carb woes

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22K views 28 replies 6 participants last post by  Transam1  
#1 ·
Well ever since I bought my 89 I have had a bit of a flat spot right off idle . A bot disturbing when going around a corner and the bike feels like it wants to lay down then suddenly it makes it way past the flat spot and takes off . I synced the carb did the seafoam and no go. I've heard about the vaccum line under the carb and am in the process of pulling the Tuperware off to inspect the lines and possibly rebuild the carbs.I'm thinking the vaccum line may be the culprit because if I have the choke on a bit the flat spot is not so pronounced. I have heard that the 89 - 90 wings had this problem and was a known issue. My question is if you find carbs for a newer wing and install them 1 - does this cure it and 2 - are they interchangable ? I also plan on replacing the timing belts as I believe they are the originals and I bought the bike from the original owner. They only have 45,000 on them but figure the time probably beat them up.
Any assistance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
 
#2 ·
Transam1, Like several other GL!500 owners on here, I've been through this. Mine symptom was a surging/oscillating idle. What I learned in the course of doing the job was that the 1500 has an extensive and critical vacuum system and that the heart of it is located at the bottom of the carbs = the 2 "isolators" (rubber boots that connect the carbs to the two intake pipes) and the 4 primary vacuum lines that come out of the carbs, two from each carb. All the other vacuum lines are secondary to those 4 hoses. The problem with the GL1500 design was a thin rubber mat on top of the engine (purpose unknown to me) and all 6 rubber components mentioned above are UNDERNEATH it, meaning they bake hard under there and hard rubber doesn't seal properly.

We'll glad to help as you get into it, including useful tools and tips like removing the radiator fans for accessibility to everything. Our Super Moderator Fossil92/Bill has a good tutorial by Jim Martino that he can post a link for, too. It's a bit time consuming, but the results are worth it. Can't really synch carbs if there are ANY vacuum leakages. Now my idle is dead steady and the acceleration is great. My mileage averages about 40mpg.
 
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#3 ·
Chris, as Kev said.....Been there done that. I had similar issues and yes it most certainly was vacuum leaks. You will need a very long pair of needle nose pliers. They don't have to be an extremely good pair so you can get them at Harbor Freight and also a long Phillips to remove the isolators that Kevin talks about. I just recently discovered the joy of JIS screwdrivers and can tell you that you need to be very careful with the Phillips on those isolators if you use a standard one. They will round out extremely easy.

I also spent the money and recently did the job a 2nd time changing the vacuum lines again to High Temp Silicone ones, while changing the isolators as well. All totaled I believe I spent some where around $85. to do so in parts.

The web link below is that of Jim Martino's step by step instructions which proved invaluable.

http://www.jmartino.me/goldwing/index.htm


In addition the early Wings- I believe 88-90 had a notorious stumble that there was an aftermarket part made to aid in correcting. It is called a trigger wheel. You may also want to do some research on that.

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_valkyrie_trigger_wheel/86/159787



Finally if you have any questions or need any guidance be sure to just ask Kev or myself. We will be glad to help.
 
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#4 ·
The weird thing is a have a steady idle . Figured I'm running lean due to a hose though.
When I pulled the plugs they still looked new. Of course I ran seafoam and startron through
The engine and that could be part of the reason they were white . Believe I can get the pliiers at
Work. I did pull the air cleaner off before and had to pull the right side radiator to get that one hose on.
No mentioning of that on the Martino guide so assuming that's what those 45 degree pliers are for.
Where did you get silicone hoses from ? Also jis screwdrivers ? Clicked the link showed a bunch of sets,
Are these jewellers screwdrivers ?
Thanks guys I appreciate it ,may have to delay the disassembly of the bike, I have no garage and
Weather is supposed to be bad today . I'm sure I'll be posting again with all sorts of questions.
Thanks again,
Chris
'



,
'
 
#5 ·
I'd hold off on the trigger wheel mentioned above.Did a ton of reading on the infamous hesitation(it was on the 88 &89's) and the only thing that everyone seemed to agree on was that the trigger wheel made it harder on fuel.A lot of guys were throwing the trigger wheels on before actually going to the source of the issue and it did cover it up to a point,but it can be cured without the wheel bumping up your timing.

BTW My 89 had it,but it was so slight that by the time I got through the first tank of fuel I didn't even notice it anymore.I put over a hundred thousand kilometers on in and it never got any worse.The guy that I sold it to a couple of summers ago never mentioned it either.He came off of a 1200 the same as I did.
 
#6 ·
Yea, heard from a couple sources on the trigger wheel. Read about it in Wing World, the tech guy said to stay away from the wheel. Figure I'll replace every vaccum line on the thing as I'm sure that 26 years have taken their toll. Depending on what I find may or may not rebuild the carbs. Heard there is like 25 feet of vaccum tubing on these so could be fun.
Thanks all, will keep you posted.
Chris
 
#7 ·
My 1500 was running crummy after riding it on an all day trip. All I needed to do was drain the two hoses under the lower left cover.
 
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#11 ·
Chris, did not mean to mislead you, I personally would not use the trigger wheel either I was just providing the info.

Got both my vacuum hoses on Amazon (2 different vendors). That is also where I got my JIS screwdrivers. Japenese Industry Standard. You will be amazed at how a regular Phillips really doesn't fit the screws on our bikes. Here is a link to a product review that I recently provided. It is post #23

http://www.goldwingowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62393&page=3

Also if you read Martino's testing procedure and get some starting fluid, put the little straw on the nozzle, and spray up under the body work that can reveal if in fact you have a vacuum leak. The motor will immediately respond by revving up.
 
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#13 ·
Fossil/Bill: I KNEW once I mentioned the rubber boots under the carbs, "insulators", that you'd HAVE to go back in to replace them, kicking yourself in the ass the whole time for not doing it when you were in there before! I knew this because it's exactly how I felt when I went back in to replace them, too!:snork: Sure was a hell of a lot easier for having left much longer primary vacuum hoses!

Transom: Your GL1500 is 6 years older than mine. If it has also spent its life in the Southwest it's a sure bet that all those components are about the consistency of Bakelite by now. I'd also replace the 1 gasket across the middle of the carbs while in there. Might even be good to replace as many secondary vacuum lines as you can. The fresher the tighter; the tighter the better.
 
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#15 ·
Fossil/Bill: I KNEW once I mentioned the rubber boots under the carbs, "insulators", that you'd HAVE to go back in to replace them, kicking yourself in the ass the whole time for not doing it when you were in there before! I knew this because it's exactly how I felt when I went back in to replace them, too!:snork: Sure was a hell of a lot easier for having left much longer primary vacuum hoses!

Transom: Your GL1500 is 6 years older than mine. If it has also spent its life in the Southwest it's a sure bet that all those components are about the consistency of Bakelite by now. I'd also replace the 1 gasket across the middle of the carbs while in there. Might even be good to replace as many secondary vacuum lines as you can. The fresher the tighter; the tighter the better.
Hee Hee :eek:
 
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#14 ·
Actually Kevin, I was amazed at how easy it was to do the second time. I wasn't exactly thrilled with the vacuum tubing the local shop had when I was doing this the 1st time which is why I changed to the High Temp Silicone vacuum tubing as well.
 
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#17 ·
OEM from Honda only. If you have no decent dealer near you with a parts counter, you can order on line from Western Honda and others.
 
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#26 ·
I would think that the 88 and 89 Wings having had a known hesitation issue almost from day one would have had all the Honda updates done to them long,long ago.I would also think that checking/repairing the vacum lines,cleaning the carbs and balancing them would cure any issues at this point.Just can't see these being around for 25+ years without owners getting every fix Honda had for it done long ago.JMHO.
 
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