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Discussion Starter #1
I'm certain this topic must be covered somewhere on this site but my search came up empty. I recently acquired an '02 1800 Trike that has just turned 30,000 miles. I traded in my '99 Valkyrie Interstate that was just getting a bit too much for me (at age 72), to handle at stoplights. I had planned to Trike the Valk but found a good deal on the GW instead.

We just did front brake pads, plugs, oil & filter change on the 1800 but the dealer tells me that a valve adjustment is recommended at 15,000 and 30,000 miles. I have mixed emotions about this since it runs so smoothly, I'm of the opinion if it ain't broke..... etc.

On a Valkyrie owner's site I read a recommendation never to touch the valves unless they are exhibiting some kind of problem. Is this a pretty good idea for the 1800 as well???

rickrae
 

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you got the oil ,filter, plugs now do the final drve gear oil sae 80 and air filter and ride and have fun. Air filter little bit tricky,Dealers charge around $170 llabor & mat. now ride and have fun see ya ASA, from Il.
 

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hi ric, running the valves on your wing with 30000 miles would be a good idea. your wing has the shim style valves, which will tighten up with miles due to valve wear at the valve seats. this is a pretty complicated job to do at home, so have a knowledgeable tech do it, your m/c will be glad you did. frank
 

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rickrae the valves are 'scheduled' for setting/inspection every 32,000miles in the service manual. As 2580 says there is a some things that should be checked when doing the inspection: roughness on the valve seats, guide clearance, stem wear etc. Any refacing that is in need of doing should be done by a qualified tech with the proper tools and training. Bucket and shim valves are pretty simple to set, but the other stuff can easily be overlooked. Lots of guys do their own engine work, but you can do more harm than good if you don't know what you're about.
 

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the dealer tells me that a valve adjustment is recommended at 15,000 and 30,000 miles.
I just hate it when dealers try to rip off their customers. When they tell you that a certain thing is SUPPOSE to be done at a certain time, ask them to show you where it is in the owners manual. Most of the time it's not. The valves are suppose to be CHECKED at 32,000, if they are all O.K. which almost every 1800 I have every heard of getting the valves checked are than it shouldn't cost much. But if they need new shims than it can get a little more expensive. And if your dealer told you they should be checked at 15,000 miles he will probably tell you they needed to adjusted even if they were in specs. I'd find another dealer or a good independent Gold Wing shop.
 

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I'm with Joe on this one. On the other forums many GL1800's have gone well over 100k with no adjustment necessary. Seems like your dealer is going to find a problem even if there is not one. Check around for another dealer who is reputable and take the Wing to them. I'm going to bet the valve's are just fine. Let us know how you make out.
 

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The general concensus amoung our mechanics that no adjustment is necessary unless the valves are noisy. My other Hondas with bucket and shim valves "let me know" when an adjustment was necessary by a very pronouced miss under hard acceleration. As for that dealer telling you that the interval is 15,000 and 30,000 Joe's right (as usual). Another reason for every owner to buy the Honda Service Manual. It's the best $100 you'll ever spend on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The general concensus amoung our mechanics that no adjustment is necessary unless the valves are noisy. My other Hondas with bucket and shim valves "let me know" when an adjustment was necessary by a very pronouced miss under hard acceleration. As for that dealer telling you that the interval is 15,000 and 30,000 Joe's right (as usual). Another reason for every owner to buy the Honda Service Manual. It's the best $100 you'll ever spend on your bike.
Budoka:

So what I hear you saying is that the GL1800 does NOT have bucket and shim valves and that I should not worry about the "adjustment" the dealer recommends at 30,000 miles. This dealer is reasonably close to my home and is also a Can Am Spyder dealer which makes it convenient because my wife has a 2010 Spyder RT.

I think all dealers have their service techs amped up to 'sell' as much service work as they can. My best defense it to frequent message boards such as these so I am armed before I take the machine in for servicing.

Thanks, to all those who responded to my question.... I appreciate the feed back.

rickrae
 

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Joe dealer is right and so is Bud, find someone who can to it correctly, It cost bucks even if all they do is check them. Im at 112K and have only had them checked (3 x).
 

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No rickrae, the valves on the 1800's are shim adjusted, but the dealer is wrong about the 15,000 part. checking them is recommended if not essential at the recommended intervals (why take a chance?). When you do decide to go in, if you don't have your own manual, the maintenance schedule is in section 4, page 4...black and white, doesn't get any clearer than that. Caveat: as with all things mechanical, it is up to us as owners to "pay attention" to our machines and listen to what they are telling us. Noises, vibrations, rattles are all indicators that something is amiss. Take heed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No rickrae, the valves on the 1800's are shim adjusted, but the dealer is wrong about the 15,000 part. checking them is recommended if not essential at the recommended intervals (why take a chance?). When you do decide to go in, if you don't have your own manual, the maintenance schedule is in section 4, page 4...black and white, doesn't get any clearer than that. Caveat: as with all things mechanical, it is up to us as owners to "pay attention" to our machines and listen to what they are telling us. Noises, vibrations, rattles are all indicators that something is amiss. Take heed.
Took the bike in this afternoon for the 32,000 mile service. This is the most expensive service interval I have ever seen! The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual did not list all the stuff that the dealer showed me in their manual for this work. Valve adjustment, air filter check, steering head lubrication, crankcase vent valve, final drive inspection, plugs, clutch, brake and coolant fluid change and on and on. When the quote for the work got up to $1,200 I called a time out.

Since I am not hearing or seeing any unusual noises or vibrations all we are doing is the oil and filter, coolant fluid check and air filter and even that comes up to around $300. I told them to go ahead but I will look for a more reasonable motorcycle shop for future work.

I thought my wife's Can-Am Spyder was expensive to service but this Gold Wing takes the cake!

rickrae
 

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Hi Rick

Please tell us who the dealer is so none of us stop by. I average 1/2 of what you paid for a 30K service and I have had 3 of them. (The valve inspection is about 400$). Thank you.
 

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Please tell us who the dealer is so none of us stop by. I average 1/2 of what you paid for a 30K service and I have had 3 of them. (The valve inspection is about 400$). Thank you.
Bill:

The bike is back and running fine. The bill was very high ($727.06) but well explained by the dealer. The biggest factor was labor. Total labor cost for nine hours work was $612 that works out to $68 an hour. This is a big dealership with substantial overhead so I am not really unhappy with $68 per hour. I'm sure in Tucson it would be cheaper but here in Metro Atlanta that doesn't seem bad. The bike literally was torn down to get at the valves and air cleaner. The valves alone took five hours.

They also checked the cooling system, suspension, steering, adjusted carburetor idle speed, lubed cables, etc.

The balance of the bill was for the oil filter, the air filter, 4 quarts of synthetic oil & brake fluid (I had the system flushed).

rickrae
 

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I just turned 100,000 a couple days ago on my "03" and valves have never been inspected. Friends that had theirs inspected said they were in spec, and suggested I wait for noises before getting inspected. Bike runs as well or better than new. I use synthec oil and change every 5,000 miles. I change coolant, hydraulic fluid, rear end fluid, plugs, and brake pads every two years (30,000 miles) I used to change the battery also because I didn't want to get stuck somewhere, but decieded to wait a little longer this time.
 

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rickrae, the labour rate you mention seems more than fair. Here in the 'Republic of Alberta' shop labour runs anywhere from $90-135/hr depending on where in the province you may be. As for your oil and filter, final drive fluid and coolant checks, that is easy stuff for an owner to do. It's good to have a prepared list when you take anything to a shop with explicit instructions to be notified before proceeding on anything not covered on your list. Like Shimpy says lots of GL's don't exhibit signs of valve problems until well into the 6 digit mile zone and you can hear them talking to you if they do. ST's also have recommended valve adjustments that don't alawys materialize as being a necessity, but inspection never hurts, and the one side of an ST is seriously more challenging than the other.
 
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