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A couple of years ago I changed the oil in my 1500 to a 20w/50 Honda brand with moly. The bile is a 1990 model & has over 200,000 miles on it so I figured the thicker oil might help boost the pressure. Instead after about 15 miles I started getting a grinding noise, like it was slipping between 2 gears & not making full mesh with either. It comes & goes & the oil is the only thing that has been changed, so I am thinking of trying to go back to a 5 or 10w/30. My question is, has anyone else experienced anything like this? Maybe it is co-incidental, & that the oil is NOT the problem? Just looking for places to start. I had to park the bilke 2 years ago & she has been in the garage since, but I am feeling the need for some early spring therapy....maybe a ride on the dragon will settle my nerves a little!!!!
 

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My manual does not list any 5 or 50wt oil for my Wing!
Also, noted some time ago in s Motorcycle oils study in a Motorcycle related magazine:
Molybednium Disulfide (moly for short) is a excellent high temp lubricant! It is actually attracted to and works better the higher the temp of the part it is lubricating. Problem is the clutch gets pretty hot, it attracts it, lubes it, slips it, glazes it up, ruins it. Its fine in moderate hp bikes or bikes with dry or separate clutches
 

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I'm not sure Moly is recommended because of the slipping factor for motorcycles. I used it once and went back to regular synthetic...
 

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Even though your bike has high mileage. 20w50 is not needed. Watercooler engines don't need to thick and slow flow rate of 20w50. Go back to 10w30. And see if problem goes away.
 

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flush the fluid in the clutch resevour
 

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I've got a question in to my favorite Honda guru about this very subject. Honda markets a high performance HP Synthetic that contains moly.:confused: I find that very strange for street bike applications. I'll post whatever he tells me about it.
 

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I got an answer back on the HP4M oil from Honda. I was right, do not use the moly added HP4 in a street motorcycle for reasons already mentioned. However, certain CRF models (or any of the ones that do not share engine/transission/clutch oil) the HP4M can be used in.
 

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A 20W-50 oil really has no place in a Wing or, most Metric bikes for that matter, unless unusually hot riding is experienced and, even then, if using a Premium Synthetic, the max would be a 10W-40.

A 20W-50 will cause a lack of lubrication increasing wear, cause elevated oil temps and yes, can cause slow shifting which means you may not be able to shift as before.

An automotive oil, especially anything in a 30 weight, should be avoided due to friction modifiers usd to increase fuel mileage. There are 10W-30 Motorcycle Specific oils that should be used but, over 95% of my customers prefer 10W-40.

Many people, including many mechanics/techs, look at viscosity as "the only requirement". An automotive oil may be used as long as it carries a API SG or SG/SH Rating. If it has a Stand Alone SH or higher, it should carry the JASO MA or, better yet, MA2 Rating.

Bob
 
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