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Discussion Starter #1
This problem has probably been discussed before as I know my experience is not unique, but I can't find any reference to it here.

I've had a 2003 GL1800 that I bought with 22,000 miles on it. (50,000 now). The first tire that was on the bike wore evenly, but the next cupped so badly starting at 25% wear that at virtually any speed if you took your hands off, it would immediately start a bad wobble. I replaced the tire and the dealer told me that the tire did that because of under inflation. So I've been very careful with this one that it is at least the recommended pressure, but at 25% wear or less, the cupping and wobble came back again. If I keep hands on, I can't detect anytendency to want to wobble at all.

Any ideas or suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I doubt it as I can't feel anything loose or klunking on hard breaking or cornering. Had the front fork seals changed a few years ago - nothing noticed then.

Thanks!
 

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Those are purported to be the leading cause of cupping, and would explain your new cupping issue.

Google "Steering Head Bearing Tension Check".
 

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well............ what brand of tires are you running

some of us that ran Dunlops........ one tire would run great, the next wobble, the next run great......so, to me it was always the tire, not the bike
Had one front wobble brand new, but only under 45 with hands off or nearly, but hands on... not detection as you said

the cupping......... tends to be a balance thing.... hard to keep the tires balanced unless you run beads or centramtic balancers
 

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I had another Honda that had a wobble. I took it to my mechanic and he ended up tightening the steering head. He said that the factory doesn't always tighten the steering head as much as it should be due to liability issues. Take that for what it's worth. It solved my problem.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, I'll get that checked! Thank you!

Russ
well............ what brand of tires are you running

some of us that ran Dunlops........ one tire would run great, the next wobble, the next run great......so, to me it was always the tire, not the bike
Had one front wobble brand new, but only under 45 with hands off or nearly, but hands on... not detection as you said

the cupping......... tends to be a balance thing.... hard to keep the tires balanced unless you run beads or centramtic balancers
The first tire to do it was a Dunlop Elite; the one on now is a Metzeler.

As to balancing, I've never noticed anything like it hopping the way a car tire does when unbalanced; always a very smooth ride; just keep your hands on! Could it still be a balancing problem?

Thanks,
Russ
 

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a m/c tire is so light and such a small contact patch it doesn't take much in the way of out of balance to start the issue

since I have started running beads in the tires, the cupping has gone away

you should find and watch a video of how the beads work, after I did that, that is when I started using them

but I did not purchase the beads from a motorcycle accesories place.... I got a set that was to be enough to do a truck
I will have beads for a long while, was much cheaper, but the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
a m/c tire is so light and such a small contact patch it doesn't take much in the way of out of balance to start the issue

since I have started running beads in the tires, the cupping has gone away

you should find and watch a video of how the beads work, after I did that, that is when I started using them

but I did not purchase the beads from a motorcycle accesories place.... I got a set that was to be enough to do a truck
I will have beads for a long while, was much cheaper, but the same thing
I'll look into that.

Thanks!
 

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Four things to look at, 1. Bridgestone 709 2. balance beads, 2 to 3 oz. 3. front wheel bearings 4. check the torque on the steering head bearings. If you do 1, you must do 2 at the same time. While the wheel's off, have the wheel bearings checked or replaced. Then retorque those head bearings and go ride. I suffered the same problem and did these 4 things. Have had no problem since. One last thing, when's the last time the front forks were serviced? Worn guides and slides will make things flop as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Four things to look at, 1. Bridgestone 709 2. balance beads, 2 to 3 oz. 3. front wheel bearings 4. check the torque on the steering head bearings. If you do 1, you must do 2 at the same time. While the wheel's off, have the wheel bearings checked or replaced. Then retorque those head bearings and go ride. I suffered the same problem and did these 4 things. Have had no problem since. One last thing, when's the last time the front forks were serviced? Worn guides and slides will make things flop as well.
 

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All MC tires cup and there is no full cure. The cupping is due to the football shaped tire contact patch. Some tires do cup more than others but they all will cup with time. Head bearings, beads and such have little affect on this but tire brand does. many will overinflated the tire in order to reduce the contact patch and reduce wear however the compromise there is harsh ride and reduced traction. The only real treatment is to find a tire that is less prone and just stick with that. In the past I found the BT-45r (mounted correctly) offered a very soft ride and didn't cup badly until it reached about 20k. Normal pressure I used was 34psi which offered a supreme ride so again a great compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All MC tires cup and there is no full cure. The cupping is due to the football shaped tire contact patch. Some tires do cup more than others but they all will cup with time. Head bearings, beads and such have little affect on this but tire brand does. many will overinflated the tire in order to reduce the contact patch and reduce wear however the compromise there is harsh ride and reduced traction. The only real treatment is to find a tire that is less prone and just stick with that. In the past I found the BT-45r (mounted correctly) offered a very soft ride and didn't cup badly until it reached about 20k. Normal pressure I used was 34psi which offered a supreme ride so again a great compromise.
That's interesting! Thanks!
 

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This problem has probably been discussed before as I know my experience is not unique, but I can't find any reference to it here.

I've had a 2003 GL1800 that I bought with 22,000 miles on it. (50,000 now). The first tire that was on the bike wore evenly, but the next cupped so badly starting at 25% wear that at virtually any speed if you took your hands off, it would immediately start a bad wobble. I replaced the tire and the dealer told me that the tire did that because of under inflation. So I've been very careful with this one that it is at least the recommended pressure, but at 25% wear or less, the cupping and wobble came back again. If I keep hands on, I can't detect anytendency to want to wobble at all.

Any ideas or suggestions?
Do you still have the weak stock fork springs?
 

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Weak stock fork springs? Not aware of any problem with them.
A well know fact with the Wing do some research. All my Traxxion (3) equipped bikes never cupped a tire afterwards.
 

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My wheels (2020 Wing)
have a right angle valve stem - any tricks to get beads to go into the tire?
On my 2012 before I put the wheels back on I put the stem at 6 o'clock. Leaned the tire up against something so the stem points up at about a 45° angle. With the valve guts out I used the bottle w/nozzle and the clear plastic tube provided with the beads. Twist one end of the tube onto the stem then push the nozzle of the bottle with the beads inside the other end of the tube and more or less pour the beads through the stem. Gotta go slow and if they clog up squeeze the bottle in and out to get the beads moving. The TPMS sensor does hinder things a little. Once they are all in air up and install the wheel.
 
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