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A big thank you to to those of you who helped me with my stuck switches - even though you didn't know you were helping. I'm referring to the numerous posts that have been written concerning freeing up stuck switches, how to go about it and what to use. Very soon after I bought my wing (gently used), the cruise control on/off switch stuck in the on position. I tried using a bit of WD40 to free it up (after all, my redneck manual says "if it doesn't move and should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape), but that of course didn't work. After fooling with it for a while, I decided that since it was stuck in the 'on' position and was working fine, I probably should just leave well enough alone. I have to admit, it bugged me a bit, but it wasn't particularly worrisome, so I ignored it.

About 2 weeks ago I stopped by the bank on the way to work. Since I was just stopping for a minute or so, I turned on the hazard lights and left the bike sitting at the edge of the drive way while I used the ATM. You know what's coming next, right? Yeah, my hazards got stuck on, so I had to ride the rest of the way to work and then back home again with them flashing. After pushing the switch (over and over and over and over and over again) it finally popped out and turned the lights off.

About this time I should say that my OCD just doesn't let me leave well enough alone. Since there is a switch on the dash, it MUST work. So after reading everything I could on this and other forums, I decided to tackle fixing these switches (hazard and cruise on/off) myself. Having done so, I have a couple of tips that I would like to pass along.

First off, leave the WD40 on the shelf. Although it will help free up the switch, it is NOT the best agent for doing so. WD40 is a marginal lubricant and can actually be quite destructive when in contact with certain materials. Electrical contact cleaner is a much better alternative in my opinion - especially when I tell you about what I found inside one of the switches.

Let's talk about the inside of the switches for a minute. The cruise switch is difficult to get to. The hazard switch on the other hand is much easier to extract, so that is where I started. Now before we go any further, I'm going to say that you don't really need to disassemble the switch as I did. However, in order for me to understand how the switch worked and therefore the best way to fix it, I took it apart to see the 'guts'. Getting the switch out is a matter of pulling the left hand storage pocket, removing the trim strip, pulling out a socket head bolt on the far left and then popping the facia (or bezel, whichever you prefer to call it) out. On the backside of the facia, there is a plastic cover that can be pulled off which exposes the back of the switches and associated wiring. This is as far as you need to disassemble in order to free a stuck switch. As I wrote earlier, I went further - but only to see what I was dealing with. By the way, you will note at this point that the button that you push on labeled with the Hazard emblem is NOT the switch. It is just a button with something of an extension that pushes on the switch actuator. It is very obvious when examining the switch that spraying WD40 or electrical cleaner (I used CRC from Pep Boys) or bug spray or hair spray or whatever else from the OUTSIDE of the facia will do nothing - other than get the wiring wet :) In order to get the contact cleaner into an area where it will do the most good, you have to at least remove the facia from the bike.

If you do wish to take the switch apart, proceed at your own risk. There is a smallish spring inside (about the size of the springs used in retractable ball point pens) that can and will go boinging away never to be found again unless you are very careful. The switch will separate in two by gently prying four locking latches, two on each side of the switch. When you open the switch, you will find a brass 'wig-wag', basically a very small pin shaped like a 'Z'. When the button on the switch is pushed, the wig-wag moves to one side in a channel on the actuator. This keeps the actuator spring from pushing the actuator back out. When the actuator is pushed again, the wig-wag swings the other way which allows the actuator to pop back out. I probably didn't explain that very well, but the main point is that the switch is full if dielectric grease from when the switch was built. This grease (as does all grease eventually) dries up and instead of lubricating the insides of the switch, it ends up gluing everything together, including the little wig-wag. This is what keeps the switch from popping back out when it is pressed. After taking the switch apart, I hosed all of the parts off with CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner, which removed all of the hardened grease. I did not replace the grease, although you can purchase this product at Radio Shack or the auto parts store. In retrospect, I wish I had gotten some grease and relubricated the inside of the switch. If nothing else, it would protect the metal contacts from corrosion. Hind sight . . .

For the cruise on/off switch, l did not take the switch completely out of the bike, nor did I take it apart. These switches are not sealed, so once the switch is exposed so that you can get the straw on the aerosol can up against the openings of the switch, it's a quick few shots of the cleaner to free them up. Hose the switch down while repeatedly pushing the switch on and off. It took all of 10 minutes to do the cruise control switch, including opening up the right hand housing.

I hope this info helps someone down the road. There's no need to live with stuck switches :bday:
 

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Nicely done and worthy of being stuck up top. On the 1500's there are some openings in the plastic housing that allows the little red straw to get contact cleaner into the switch. Not sure on the 1800's but from your description, sounds like that is a no.


Again nice job on the write up
 

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Lubricant

Hello folk, has anyone used ANTI-CORROSIVE LUBRICANT SPRAY I notice that after using the cleaner it kind of a dry feeling the way the switch work and still get stuck but as long as I spray more cleaner into it work fine then after about an hour back to being stuck so I stop by Radio shack and pick up a can Lubricant and work fine even after 24 hrs so far. Just wonder about you'll this first time I used it.
 

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Hey Ron,
My hazards stick on every time I use them. I have quit biting my nails so I can pop the button back out. Before I had to fish my pocket knife out and pop it out. I leave my cruise on all the time


Corp
 

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Corp; nice to see you on here again.
Go by radio shack and get a can of of Contact Cleaner. Use the little red tube that comes with it and spray a bunch of cleaner in around the switch and work the button. It should free right up. A can of canned air to blow all the gunk out after the flushing.
 

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BTW, when you are toggling those switches on and off while you are trying to get them cleaned and working, it is a good idea to have the key on the off position. At least according to my local Honda mechanic.
 

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I took great delight in throwing my hazard and fog switch in the bin, and good riddance to them. fitted a pair of quality switches for just over a quid.

http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/anytime4ways.html

It will be a cold day in hell when I spend almost = to $200 for a replacement that does not even have a fog switch, I feel sorry for anyone who has to. The price is piracy, even if the switch unit was high quality. Honda should have the hubris to admit they are faulty and replace these switches for DIY fit.

Shame I cannot dispose of the cruise switch so well, as mine sticks on, it annoys me but I leave it on.

My 1800 had not covered 8000 miles and not used in the rain or kept outside overnight before I had several switch problems, way out of warranty though.

Ok what about Wingdings and Treffens, well.....


I may sound disgruntled, but am not, just disappointed in Hondas cheap skating.
 

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Nice write up and you are 100% correct on the WD-40. It is quite possibly the most destructive material ever invented.
I spent 10 years removing this gunk from garage doors and openers when I owned my GD company. My friend who owned a key and lock business loved the stuff - he said 90% of his income came from damage done by WD-40.
 

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Corp; nice to see you on here again.
Go by radio shack and get a can of of Contact Cleaner. Use the little red tube that comes with it and spray a bunch of cleaner in around the switch and work the button. It should free right up. A can of canned air to blow all the gunk out after the flushing.
Hi Ron- are you saying you don'y need to disasemble the switches or remove them to do the cleaning? does this work on the 1800's?
mat
 

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I have good luck with just spraying the switches with the red straw on my 1800 using CRC electrical cleaner. Same on my 1500 as well.
 

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I use radio shack control/contact cleaner & lubricant.
Use it when parking the bike for the night so the oil can dry over night. Works great.
a good easy solution for me.
 

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Hi Ron- are you saying you don'y need to disasemble the switches or remove them to do the cleaning? does this work on the 1800's?
mat
Sorry for not getting back sooner.
Yup' just use the red straw that comes with the cleaner and spray in around the switch edges, like HallTC said and work the switch while doing it. You can also give it a shot of canned air to blow the junk out, then another shot of cleaner for a lubricant.
 

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We have a radio shack here but any electronics store carries cleaner. I think even Home Depot may have some it the home electronics section.

Most electronic shops sell "pot oil" no not for smoking but it's an oil used to lubricate potentiometers. It is electrically neutral so you can get it on contacts without worry.

I buy a lot from Eastwood and they have CRC which is also available at autoparts stores and Ace hardware - http://www.eastwood.com/crc-qd-contact-cleaner-aerosol.html?fee=7&fep=5170&SRCCODE=GA220010&adpos=1o1&creative=83580269220&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAz5y1BRDZ4Z_K_eGa84cBEiQAtQkeaLKNTOxUgNKTwUBQLRLMX_bvFFanwg-UtMu4oYuIVAAaAjyv8P8HAQ

Also a PDF on lubricants just for electronics - http://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/b668a7c21d9d25e126e6f182944af7f1/en/lubenote_potentiometers.pdf
 
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