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Discussion Starter #1
I want to change the oil in the final drive (2009) before winter but looking at it it appears that it is difficult to get at. The muffler is almost right up against the plug.
Do you have to remove the side bag or the muffler or can you squeeze in enough? Draining I think is OK but the fill hole is very awkward to get at to fill with a bottle of oil.
Does anyone have any thoughts?
 

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I've heard guys talk about changing the final drive oil, some everytime they change engine oil, so I can't believe it's that difficult. There should be something in the manual about it with instructions. I don't believe you need to remove any hardware or tupperware. But not having done it yet, I may be wrong. Maybe someone on the board who has actually done it can chime in.
 

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Final Drive oil change

Use a box end 17mm wrench and you don't have to worry about the bag or muffler. To fill the unit, use a turkey baster hypodermic that you can buy at Walmart. I measured out the required amount in a kitchen measuring cup, sucked it into the baster and using the needle squirted it into the final drive. No problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I kinda thought about something like a tube on the bottle end, but a syringe sounds like a better idea.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Many different ways to fill it, you can get a pump at Wal Mart that screws on the top of the fluids bottle, use an old time oil can Or cut off a piece of the top of the filler bottle, put a piece of rubber tubing on it, put it in the hole, hold the bottle upside down and squeeze.



 

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At Wally World and in sporting goods pick up a pump sold to change oil in the lower end of an outboard.
 

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Seems like you check it while on the center stand and if I remember correctly it might be easier to put the stuff in while on the center stand. The rear end drops down farther below the muffler while on the center stand because all the weight is taken off the wheel.
 

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Go buy an oil squirt can it will go around the pipes and keep pumping untill it starts to run out.JMP

Sonney
 

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Proper procedure as listed in the manual is as follows: Place bike on centre stand, remove the filler cap from the gearcase. (17mm open or box end wrench). Level is correct if it reaches the bottom of the fill hole. To drain, remove the drain bolt and washer, rotate the rear wheel to drain the oil into drain pan. To refill, put a new sealing washer on the drain plug and install (torque is 15 lbf-ft/20N-m). Fill with Hypoid SAE #80 ('09) until fluid reachs bottom of fill hole. Sqeeze bottles with a flexable hose or flex hose oil cans work well. Put a new o-ring on the fill plug and coat with lube and re-install fill plug. Torque to 9 lbf-ft/12 N-m. Fluid should be inspected every 8000 mi, and changed every 24,000 mi.
Always check for leaks before and after changing any fluids on your bike.
If you are fortunate enough to have a bike jack or lift bench, make sure the bike is secure before you lie down under or beside it. Being one with your ride means you should be on top of it, not the other way around:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I went to Wally World and got a large syringe for changing outboard engine gear oil, I think someone suggested that. I had some tubing that fit on the syringe and that worked fine.
I was surprised how dirty the oil was when it came out after only 1000 km. Almost like coffee. I found the same thing on my ST. It took about 3 changes every 500 km before it stayed clear.
 

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Glad you got the job done Snuffy. My ST went clear after the first change, so I got lucky I guess. Come to think of it, I don't recall ever changing the final drive fliud in either of my other Wings. Did the fork oil and brake fluid numerous times (always at the dealership) so maybe they did it and just never mentioned it. I never used to fine tooth check my completed work orders, not like I do these days anyway. Gonna do my final drive when I change the engine oil next.
 

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I changed all the fluids on my just acquired 05 wing. The final drive volume manual states is 4.1oz. I used the honda bottle of 80w, it's impossible to tell the volume but it's an 8oz bottle it seems I've used more than half but can't be sure, I filled the reservoir til it just started dripping from the top bolt as manual states, put the fill bolt back in spun the wheel a bit and checked it again. Is it possible to overfill?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't believe that there is any way of overfilling it since it starts to run out of the top filler hole at only half full. Also it does have a breather on the crankcase so it you could possible fill it full it would spew out of the breather.
 

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Once you have the right stuff to fill it it is an easy thing to do, I do mine every other oil change.
 

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Just a suggestion.

Make sure that you can remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug. A friend of mine drained the differential lube from his bike and THEN found out that he could not remove the fill plug and really chewed up the head of it. We had one heck of a time removing it to replace the plug. I've never seen a fill plug that was in there that tight so I guess there is a 1st for everything.
 

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I agree with your evaluation of the final drive oil. I have changed mine twice now in 1400 miles and both times it was dark. Not sure why that is but I'll keep changing it until it stays fairly clear for a while longer. Also, the magnetic plug was loaded up at the first change.

I changed the engine oil at 600 miles and it was not too bad. I'll change it again at 2000 miles before getting on the regular 4000 mile schedule. It isn't that difficult to do myself and seems like a small investment for something I plan to keep for a long time.
 

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Synthetic gear oil is supposed to clean better and provide better protection, plus quiet down noisy rear Diffs. It also lasts longer. Something to consider for your next change!
 
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