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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a trailer hitch and wiring harness for the goldwing and was going to install it myself but the wiring harness thing kinda freaked me out so I decide to pay to have it installed. I was quoted $180 for the install only when I arrived to have the work done I was told the cost would be $275. I reluctantly went and had the work done and when they brought the wing out there was about a foot of wiring harness hanging out the back and wrapped around the hitch ball. I really hate it when I let myself get ripped off, should have just tackled it myself.
 

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What? No trailer plug installed on the back for that kind of money? Then to have extra wire wrapped around the hitch? I think I'd be making some noise about that. Wiring should have been tucked up and away, a solid mounted plug should have been installed. Then to top it off, when you get in there to repair or change out lights, you'll find that someone made the splice too close to a connector that no other connection can be made. I found that out when I got into mine to replace some lights that saw better days.
 

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Sorry to hear you got hosed. One reason I do my own work is that I'm cheap and want to save money, but at least as important is that I want the work done once and done right.

I'd be raising a ruckus with the business owner if I'd been treated like that. Might even stick a horn in his *ss!:eek:
 

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That's just like some of the shops in Florida, they tell you one price and then another when the job is done. There were a couple of shops like that where I used to live in Port Richey always scamming the customers. Terrible what a way to do business. They should just bite the bullet and honor the first price they gave.
 

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It seems that this company lacks professionalism both at the counter and in the shop.
This seems to be the modern day business plan, scam everyone, screw over everyone, and milk your customers for every penny you can get as you know they wont be back.
At this point if the wiring works properly and all your trailer lights work as they should, you will have to take it back apart to inspect the connections as they probably used scotch lock type connectors instead of soldering them. buy a proper plug and re run the wires to the new mounted connector and solder each connection. the only thing they did for you is find each wire that your new plug needs to connect to.
 

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Yes, definitely you should have put up a fuss. I'd never let something like that happen here. We're not anywhere near perfect No-one is) but we stand behind our work.
 

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I'm not siding with the shop here. The price change in B.S. they should have stuck to the original quote.
My question is what kind of plug was on the trailer one of those 4 pin flat connectors, the harness you bought was probably a match. Not much of a way to mount them..
If you have the flat four pin connector. I suggest to purchase another plug set, you don't need the harness just the plug.
Take the half that will mate to the one on the bike. cut all the wires off flush at the plug and seal with liquid rubber or tape, and use it to protect the connector on the bike from getting a crudded up when not in use.
 

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Ya you should have done it yourself. I installed my Bushtec hitch and harness. The instructions for both really sucked but I was able to find videos on line and that cleared up any questions I had. That was on my 2010. I like working on my bike it gives me a better understanding of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yep, i learned an expensive lesson and I should have done it myself I dont think I could have done any worse than they did, I checked and they did not solder the wires they just twisted them together and used electrical tape.

I dont want to publicly trash the shop on this forum at this time as I have send emails to the general manager, service manager and parts manager and will give them several days to respond, i sent the emails last night and got no response today.
 

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You're being wise not trashing them yet, until they have a chance to make things right, but what you describe is seriously poor workmanship. The irony is that it is pretty quick to solder and shrinktube those connections and have a SATISFIED customer. Wow, Trike Lady, what a concept!;)
 

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yep, i learned an expensive lesson and I should have done it myself I dont think I could have done any worse than they did, I checked and they did not solder the wires they just twisted them together and used electrical tape.

I dont want to publicly trash the shop on this forum at this time as I have send emails to the general manager, service manager and parts manager and will give them several days to respond, i sent the emails last night and got no response today.
Wow what a hack job, This is why when ever I buy a used bike I go over ever inch of the bike as it just takes 3 or 4 jobs like this on a bike to turn it into a real P.O.S. I am glad you checked into the electrical connections.
 

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Sorry about the hijack

I just completed the whole hitch/trailer/wiring saga on my 2010.
I had the hitch installed while getting some Traxxion suspension upgrades. Seemed like good money since it was the same hitch the installer had on his bike and he had the bike apart anyway.
I had installed a set of Kuryakn LED lights on the back of the passenger armrests. I also used their plug-n-play wiring kit that taps in to the tail/turn/brake lights. The light kit came with a splitter in case you already had another Kuryakn accessory. I used one side of the Y to connect to the LED lights. I then pulled the wires out of the other side and had the 5 wires available to splice without cutting into each wire in the original harness.
I installed a Hopkins converter on the trailer (4+gnd converts to 3+gnd) rather than having the converter box on the bike all the time. More room on the trailer. It is the converter head for many car/truck specific harnesses the plug and play on cars. The only thing left was converting the 5 wires from the Kury harness to the 5 wires the Hopkins converter was expecting. Most 5 wire (4+gnd) connectors are for boat trailers and they have a blue wire for backup. This could light up backup lights on the trailer, but usually it fires a solenoid that prevents the surge brake from activating when you start to back up the boat.
If you have any Kuryakn accessories the conversion is like this:
Kury______function_____________Hopkins(Hoppy)
BLK_____GROUND_________________BLK
ORG____LEFT TURN_______________YEL
RED_____TAIL/MARKER LIGHTS_______BRN
BLU_____RIGHT TURN______________GRN
WHT____BRAKE___________________BLU

So now I have a 5-pin flat pigtail on the bike that can be tucked behind the license plate.

One note...all my lights on the Wing have been converted to LEDs so my circuit load is about 10% of the original load. My trailer is also LED so I am not worried about the extra load on the standard wiring. The converter I used will handle loads up to 2.3 Amps and is powered by that same power for the lights. If you are sticking with incandescent bulbs and especially if your new trailer has standard bulbs, you should get the converter (plug and play, Goldwing specific would be easiest) that is powered separately and has relays for switching and protecting the bike circuits. It does mean more wires to stuff into the rear of the bike.

Once again, sorry about the hijack, but it seemed somewhat similar.
 
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