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I have an 1988 Goldwing which has been a pleasure to ride for the past 10 years (bought used), Recently I replaced the engine (also bought used) and it runs great BUT now it seems to shut down for no earthly reason.
When it shuts down it is exactly as if the kickstand was down. When I stop and put into neutral it will immediately start but when I put it into gear it shuts down. Usually if I let it run in neutral for a while it will then continue to run in gear and I can continue on my way. Almost as if there some switch that is geared to temperature?
So far I have replaced the kickstand switch and that made no difference, I just pulled the reverse switch and tested it out and it seems to be working correctly, not sure where to go from here HELP!.
 

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hello jeremi, welcome to GWOF. next try the bank angle sensor. have a dealer check your vin to see if it has been changed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Engine shuts down?

Will try, but I think if it were the bank sensor then it would not start once it shut down, the bank does not change, just putting it into gear shuts it down.
 

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The pulse generators may be out of spec. They should read between 400 and 500 Ohms at 68 degrees F. These parts once they begin to get hot react thermally.
They did have defective bank angle sensors and they had a recall on them.
Also look at the clutch switch it shares the same circuit as the side stand switch. You should hear two clicks on the clutch switch ohm it out and see what you get.
 

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Like most cars and very few other bikes, I think you may nave to change the regulator. - not sure if that is the right word, but I had a similar problem back when I had a '76 GL 1,000. Basically, it provides full power to the spark plugs when starting, then drops down to a lower voltage when running normally. Mine was causing the bike to cut out when running and I was sure the problem was in the wiring to the ignition, because after I had fiddled/pushed/twisted the harness I suddenly seemed to get it right and the engine would start again, (when it had actually just cooled down.)
It was finally resolved after it cut out while riding with some Friends, and an electrician mate said "If it was a car I'd know exactly what's causing it." - after discussion and an examination of the wiring diagram, we tried shorting the reg out - which solved the problem. A quick stop at an Auto shop and bought one (same size) for a 12volt car and it never cut out again.
I suggest you get a decent Auto electrician to check your wiring diagram to see if you have a voltage regulator to your plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, I just got back from the Honda dealer and the Bank angle sensor is working correctly. I cannot believe that it is the pulse generator nor the "regulator". The engine runs well when in neutral but just as soon as I put it into gear it dies. I never release the clutch, it dies immediately when I put it into gear. It is exactly what would happen if the kickstand was down and you put it into gear. It dies immediately. I had a talk with the dealer and he was not very helpful. Basically told me that his time is not free and he would be happy to work on my bike at $85 per hour but could not give me any idea of how much time it would take. Hate open ended contracts when I am the guy paying ;).
 

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I have an 1988 Goldwing which has been a pleasure to ride for the past 10 years (bought used), Recently I replaced the engine (also bought used) and it runs great BUT now it seems to shut down for no earthly reason.
When it shuts down it is exactly as if the kickstand was down. When I stop and put into neutral it will immediately start but when I put it into gear it shuts down. Usually if I let it run in neutral for a while it will then continue to run in gear and I can continue on my way. Almost as if there some switch that is geared to temperature?
So far I have replaced the kickstand switch and that made no difference, I just pulled the reverse switch and tested it out and it seems to be working correctly, not sure where to go from here HELP!.
I had a 1988 Goldwing and it did the same thing. It was the tilt angle or bank angle swithch. The dealer replaced it and solved the problem. They did mine for free even though the warranty had expired. However that was in 1990. I think it was a service bulletin issue then. :)
 

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Will try, but I think if it were the bank sensor then it would not start once it shut down, the bank does not change, just putting it into gear shuts it down.
Could be your bank sensor if it went all the way south. My 1989 cut out on bumps, ruts, up hills. It got progressively worse. Funny, with my wife on the back it got better :) but as soon as she got off, back it went to cutting out continuously. Got so I couldn't even ride it. Anyway, the dealer has to fix it for free as it's a safety recall item. At least get it fixed first and eliminate it as a problem. If the problem still occurs, it could be related to your kickstand down sensor or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Engine Shuts Down.

Since everyone was very adamant that it was the BAS left the bike out to cool and when I started it it was shutting down when I put it into gear.
SO I shut it down and disconnected the BAS. The bike immediately shut down even though I was in neutral - expected behavior. I then made jumpers to eliminate the BAS and the bike started on the first show. Putting the bike into gear causes the bike to shut down.
So I believe that this effectively eliminates the BAS. IN fact most of the suggestions above should/would work the same weather the bike was in gear or not.
However I believe that this behavior is somehow connected to temperature. When the bike is cold this happens, if I let the bike sit running a while till it gets hot then it works normally. not sure where to look next except possibly the ignition control unit (not sure what this does but it sounds expensive)
 

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The ignition control should quit when hot, if it is going bad. You say the bike will shut down while driving or just when starting and putting it in gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Bike does not shut down when hot. It shuts down when cold and I put it into gear. Once it heats up (about 5-10 min at idle) then I can put it into gear with no issues. Sometimes when I start it and do not let it heat up I can ride, but usually it shots downwithin a mile or two. I then just start it up, let it idle till it heats up and continue on.

So far I have effectively eliminated
1. kickstand switch (replaced even though the old one tested ok)
2. reverse switch
3. bank angle sensor.

I am somewhat concerned as the cold weather is coming an I ride up to the first snow fall (usually mid December). wonder if the bike will heat up sufficiently to ride.
And Peair - I have a 23 year old bike that runs strong, looks good, and suits me. If I could make this problem go away the bike would be near perfect. Plus I don't have $20,000.00 hanging around.
 

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I apologize

I broke my first rule of posting in forums last night....I posted after having a few drinks. Sorry for the seemingly indifference. I just got back from a 6000Km trip and was settling into being home. I did read a notice at a dealer in the USA when I was travelling. It stated that the dealer would only work on bikes manufactured before the year 2000 for double the normal rate with no guarantees. It further stated that bikes older than 1995 were not welcome. Maybe that is where my insensitive rant came from...I'm not sure. On the other hand, I would be checking my ground connections. Clean the terminations on both battery terminals and the really clean the termination from the negative on the battery to the frame. This connection is part of every circuit and can be the source of 'temperature' related wiring anomolies.
 

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The Bike does not shut down when hot. It shuts down when cold and I put it into gear. Once it heats up (about 5-10 min at idle) then I can put it into gear with no issues. Sometimes when I start it and do not let it heat up I can ride, but usually it shots downwithin a mile or two. I then just start it up, let it idle till it heats up and continue on.

So far I have effectively eliminated
1. kickstand switch (replaced even though the old one tested ok)
2. reverse switch
3. bank angle sensor.

I am somewhat concerned as the cold weather is coming an I ride up to the first snow fall (usually mid December). wonder if the bike will heat up sufficiently to ride.
And Peair - I have a 23 year old bike that runs strong, looks good, and suits me. If I could make this problem go away the bike would be near perfect. Plus I don't have $20,000.00 hanging around.
I sent you via email on this site, the name and email address of the Hoda service manager and mechanic I use. Also, I included the name of the dealership and phone number with the owners name. I stopped in this morning and told them of your issue and he said he would be happy to talk to you and help on the phone. He mentioned also, the neutral switch which is tied into all the other switchs. :)
 

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I have been reading your post over and over and I am thinking outside the box on this one and you're probably going to wonder why I am asking it. Oil weight and it's effect on clutch operation is what I am thinking. If you have a 20w50 it's like cold molasses and the cold oil is effecting the clutch plates. When the oil warms up and flows freely, the clutch plates will separate. There could be notches in the basket and hub allowing the plates to stick together in the cold uncirculated oil and once the oil begins to flow they will not hang up in the notches. Just a thought.
 

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Perhaps it could be the BAS wire harness connector not plugged in tight if its been replaced before. I know of one case where that was the problem.
 

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I wasriding my 88 gl1500 and it quit on me, got it home, it starts in neutral and runs great, put it in gear it dies, tried to start it in gear, it turns over but will not start, checked the kickstand switch, it is good, checked the reverse switch, it is good, checked the gear selector switch in the front cover, it is good, im bewildered at this point, any suggestions?
 

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Do you have after market grips, some times they are a little to thick and won't let the lever come in far enough. Also could be the bushing on the lever pivot is worn also not letting the lever contact required switch properly.

Another possibility is there is a little air in the clutch system. You can try the Lazy mans bleed job on it. You'll need something to ties the lever in with and something about 1/2 inch thick to put between the lever and the grip. Turn the front wheel to the right, raising the clutch reservoir to it's highest point. Pump the lever several times hold it in, then put the spacer between the lever and grip, tie the lever in and let it set over night/ 24 hours.

Or you can do a proper bleed job.
 
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