Need some help. I posted this over on the Steve Saunders forums as well, hoping I can get some more answers here.
Quick background...
I recently put on a new tire, pulled the drive shaft and relubed all the splines, put everything back together and all seems good.
While doing this I turned the key on to make sure the lights worked, and like an idiot didn't turn it off all the way, left it in the acc position. Well this drained my battery. Had to jump it off car battery (car not running). Got the bike running and took it for a 30 minute spin to charge it up again. All good so far.
However, now at high speeds, 3k +RPMs and 70ish mph I notice a vibration. If I pull in the clutch it like turns the vibration up 4 notches. I thought it was coming from the rear end but now it seems to be getting worse. Going 70 mph down the highway, pulling clutch in and revving the engine to 3.5rpms, the vibration is really noticeable. Seems like it changes with engine RPM, Almost like a cylinder misfiring, or a really bad vacuum leak, although the revving could just be adding to it.
The vibration is most prevalent at 70+mph, at 55 I can still feel it, bit not as pronounced. Anything lower than 2500rpms I can't feel it at all. So cruising at 70mph, seems fairly smooth until I pull in the clutch, then vibration sets in. Revving the engine seems to enhance it, but I am thinking that isnt the root cause now.
I know there is a lot of talk about u-joints going bad but I don't see how this could suddenly appear out of no where just from pulling the drive shaft. Should I pull it again and reassemble?
I will ordering the rubber dampers for the alternator later today and try and eliminate that. With bad rubber dampers, how much vibration would this cause?
So this is everything that I did.
1. New tire, Dunlop E3. - Could that be a cause?
2. Changed Differential fluid
3. Lubed drive shaft splines, new oil seal, moly 60 all the splines except u joint.
3. New exhaust gaskets - Hardly see how this could cause anything
4. Checked wheel bearings for notchiness. (sp?)
5. Reassembled with proper torque specs. Everything went back together without a fight.
Any thoughts? Really stumped here.
Thanks
Cory
Quick background...
I recently put on a new tire, pulled the drive shaft and relubed all the splines, put everything back together and all seems good.
While doing this I turned the key on to make sure the lights worked, and like an idiot didn't turn it off all the way, left it in the acc position. Well this drained my battery. Had to jump it off car battery (car not running). Got the bike running and took it for a 30 minute spin to charge it up again. All good so far.
However, now at high speeds, 3k +RPMs and 70ish mph I notice a vibration. If I pull in the clutch it like turns the vibration up 4 notches. I thought it was coming from the rear end but now it seems to be getting worse. Going 70 mph down the highway, pulling clutch in and revving the engine to 3.5rpms, the vibration is really noticeable. Seems like it changes with engine RPM, Almost like a cylinder misfiring, or a really bad vacuum leak, although the revving could just be adding to it.
The vibration is most prevalent at 70+mph, at 55 I can still feel it, bit not as pronounced. Anything lower than 2500rpms I can't feel it at all. So cruising at 70mph, seems fairly smooth until I pull in the clutch, then vibration sets in. Revving the engine seems to enhance it, but I am thinking that isnt the root cause now.
I know there is a lot of talk about u-joints going bad but I don't see how this could suddenly appear out of no where just from pulling the drive shaft. Should I pull it again and reassemble?
I will ordering the rubber dampers for the alternator later today and try and eliminate that. With bad rubber dampers, how much vibration would this cause?
So this is everything that I did.
1. New tire, Dunlop E3. - Could that be a cause?
2. Changed Differential fluid
3. Lubed drive shaft splines, new oil seal, moly 60 all the splines except u joint.
3. New exhaust gaskets - Hardly see how this could cause anything
4. Checked wheel bearings for notchiness. (sp?)
5. Reassembled with proper torque specs. Everything went back together without a fight.
Any thoughts? Really stumped here.
Thanks
Cory