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I have a 1997 GL1500 Goldwing.

The problem is; I'm getting 12 volts from the two pin connector to Starter relay switch "B", which intern is providing power to the starter motor. This is while I have the ignition "off".

Because I've been having this problem with the starter motor continuously running after I release the starter button, and then goes away and comes back, I've replace the Stater relay switch "B" and tested the Stater relay switch "A" (fuse good, all connections good and tests perfect. Now, after the last start up, I could not get the starter motor to stop until I disconnected the batter. I've turned the kill switch off and on and didn't stop the starter motor. I've turned the ignition switch completely off and lock the forks and the starter motor continued to run.

I checked the following:

Relay 3 good
Relay 8 good
Fuse 12 good
Reverse diode assembly good
reverse relay switch good
reverse lever switch good
Starter relay switch "B" (1st one bad) (new one installed and tested)
Starter relay switch "A" Tests good even put a new one on and still 12 volts to relay "B")
Replace fuse "B" (hidden above batter box)
I have tested the starter switch and seems to be working properly at testing time.


I want to emphasize that I'm getting 12 volts continuously thew the yellow/red wire from the two pin connector leading to the starter relay switch "B". Because of this voltage, the starter is engaged. And even when I turn the ignition switch in all positions, (even off) I still get voltage to the starter relay "B".

Now, I believe its the ignition switch itself, but how to I test it before I take it out?

What else can I check, test or replace?

Still not ready to give up on the old girl.
Bruce
 

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Just a quick thought for you Bruce.

Remember that we are dealing with 12 volt system and as such to make an action all you need is a hot and a ground, as such if it was me I would be looking for a shorted wire to a metal part that is causing that power to connect.

As I said this is just a quick thought
 
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Have you checked for current through the start switch when not pressed, a collapsed switch can cause this problem, GM had this same problem years ago and it was a internal connection in the switch at all times. If the power is interupted with the switch not applied than you are somehow shorting to a hot somewhere in the start circuit. Start with the start button first as this is the thing that completes the start circuit.
 
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Even though it tested good, your A starter relay is hanging up. You can’t really accurately test these relays for this failure mode without loading the contacts with starter motor current. The high current is what makes it weld the contacts temporarily. The only way you can get power to energize the B relay is the A relay failing to release. A wire shorted to power is always a possibility, but not likely. It’s not the starter button switch or it would quit when you turn off the key, because the power is removed from the starter button switch when the key is turned off. This circuit is nearly identical to the 1800’s system and they can fail exactly the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for your input.
Even though it tested good, your A starter relay is hanging up. You can’t really accurately test these relays for this failure mode without loading the contacts with starter motor current. The high current is what makes it weld the contacts temporarily. The only way you can get power to energize the B relay is the A relay failing to release. A wire shorted to power is always a possibility, but not likely. It’s not the starter button switch or it would quit when you turn off the key, because the power is removed from the starter button switch when the key is turned off. This circuit is nearly identical to the 1800’s system and they can fail exactly the same way.
Thanks for your input. Because I was getting a constant 12 volt through the 2 pin connector leading to relay B, it ended up welding the high-voltage side of that relay closed. I replaced it with a new one as well as relay A. I was still getting 12 volts through the 2 pin connector so I decided to take apart the starter switch. I replaced that switch about 7 years ago thinking that it was bad back then. As I was inspecting my connections I noticed that all my solder joints were still good but there was an accumulation of cleaner covering the electrical tape I had wrapped the wires with. As soon as I cleaned off those connections the problem went away. What I still am confused about is, I should not have read 12 volts going to relay B due to the ignition switch was turned off. Just curious if you could still have a short in the starter switch that would jump 12 volts to relay B?
 

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If it fixed it that is all you have to know, fixed a problem with my intercom by disconnecting something all experts said was not connected so therefore could not be the problem. As I said before I have found that the start switch is the problem in a case of runaway start the majority of times.
 

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If it fixed it that is all you have to know, fixed a problem with my intercom by disconnecting something all experts said was not connected so therefore could not be the problem. As I said before I have found that the start switch is the problem in a case of runaway start the majority of times.
Thanks for your input. Because I was getting a constant 12 volt through the 2 pin connector leading to relay B, it ended up welding the high-voltage side of that relay closed. I replaced it with a new one as well as relay A. I was still getting 12 volts through the 2 pin connector so I decided to take apart the starter switch. I replaced that switch about 7 years ago thinking that it was bad back then. As I was inspecting my connections I noticed that all my solder joints were still good but there was an accumulation of cleaner covering the electrical tape I had wrapped the wires with. As soon as I cleaned off those connections the problem went away. What I still am confused about is, I should not have read 12 volts going to relay B due to the ignition switch was turned off. Just curious if you could still have a short in the starter switch that would jump 12 volts to relay B?
Not that can be justified in the schematics. The 1500‘s starter circuit is almost identical to the 1800’s starter circuit. Like the 1800, the 1500’s starter switch simply provides power to the coil of the A relay and it passes along the power to the B relay when it energizes. The most common mode of failure for this circuit is the A relay welding it’s contacts and keeping the B relay powered even with the key off. If disturbing that cleaner on the starter button switch corrected it for now, that means the power was getting to the A relay and energizing it as well. Turning the key off should have removed that power from the switch. If you aren’t the original owner of this bike, there’s a possibility that something was worked on in the past and something got crossed up or altered. Hopefully it doesn’t give you any more trouble.
 

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If it is working correctly now backtrack your current flow of relay A if it is no longer energized than you found your problem. You can double check to see if this was your problem by duplicating the short at the switch and see if the runaway problem reacurres, if it does you definitely found your problem.
 

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There is a possibility that you were creating a ground for the relay that made the circuit hot, a relay only takes a low amp circuit to complete a higher amp circuit. Have you checked to see if the B side of the relay is fed by the battery in which case it will be hot all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it fixed it that is all you have to know, fixed a problem with my intercom by disconnecting something all experts said was not connected so therefore could not be the problem. As I said before I have found that the start switch is the problem in a case of runaway start the majority of times.
Thank you for your help oh, it is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a 1997 GL1500 Goldwing.

The problem is; I'm getting 12 volts from the two pin connector to Starter relay switch "B", which intern is providing power to the starter motor. This is while I have the ignition "off".

Because I've been having this problem with the starter motor continuously running after I release the starter button, and then goes away and comes back, I've replace the Stater relay switch "B" and tested the Stater relay switch "A" (fuse good, all connections good and tests perfect. Now, after the last start up, I could not get the starter motor to stop until I disconnected the batter. I've turned the kill switch off and on and didn't stop the starter motor. I've turned the ignition switch completely off and lock the forks and the starter motor continued to run.

I checked the following:

Relay 3 good
Relay 8 good
Fuse 12 good
Reverse diode assembly good
reverse relay switch good
reverse lever switch good
Starter relay switch "B" (1st one bad) (new one installed and tested)
Starter relay switch "A" Tests good even put a new one on and still 12 volts to relay "B")
Replace fuse "B" (hidden above batter box)
I have tested the starter switch and seems to be working properly at testing time.


I want to emphasize that I'm getting 12 volts continuously thew the yellow/red wire from the two pin connector leading to the starter relay switch "B". Because of this voltage, the starter is engaged. And even when I turn the ignition switch in all positions, (even off) I still get voltage to the starter relay "B".

Now, I believe its the ignition switch itself, but how to I test it before I take it out?

What else can I check, test or replace?

Still not ready to give up on the old girl.
Bruce
Im with fossil ....must be a peeled wire some where ...ground wire , love the attitude , dont give up , this what we live for ....making our bikes run right , but once we fix it , we feel great about ourselves....good luck ....stay patient ....i know drives us crazy ....i go to sleep thinking about what to do to my bike ..lol
 

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I have a 1997 GL1500 Goldwing.

The problem is; I'm getting 12 volts from the two pin connector to Starter relay switch "B", which intern is providing power to the starter motor. This is while I have the ignition "off".

Because I've been having this problem with the starter motor continuously running after I release the starter button, and then goes away and comes back, I've replace the Stater relay switch "B" and tested the Stater relay switch "A" (fuse good, all connections good and tests perfect. Now, after the last start up, I could not get the starter motor to stop until I disconnected the batter. I've turned the kill switch off and on and didn't stop the starter motor. I've turned the ignition switch completely off and lock the forks and the starter motor continued to run.

I checked the following:

Relay 3 good
Relay 8 good
Fuse 12 good
Reverse diode assembly good
reverse relay switch good
reverse lever switch good
Starter relay switch "B" (1st one bad) (new one installed and tested)
Starter relay switch "A" Tests good even put a new one on and still 12 volts to relay "B")
Replace fuse "B" (hidden above batter box)
I have tested the starter switch and seems to be working properly at testing time.


I want to emphasize that I'm getting 12 volts continuously thew the yellow/red wire from the two pin connector leading to the starter relay switch "B". Because of this voltage, the starter is engaged. And even when I turn the ignition switch in all positions, (even off) I still get voltage to the starter relay "B".

Now, I believe its the ignition switch itself, but how to I test it before I take it out?

What else can I check, test or replace?

Still not ready to give up on the old girl.
Bruce
do you happen to know
Do you happen to know what pieces I need to remove to get to gold wing 1500 gl radiator fan switch I cannot find it
 
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