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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had problems with my battery.
1/ Not excepting charge.
2/ Cranking amps low.

This is what has been happening. Go out in the morning and fire up ok. Go a short distance (6 miles) shut the bike down and come back in 10 mins. and the starter turns slowly.

Decide to give the bike a longer ride and charge the battery. After 1.5 hrs riding no improvement.

So I think that an extra ground from the battery to near the starter may help. No improvement.

Put the vaultmetre on and find the battery is only getting 13 vault to the battery. Now thinking the battery is had it. But it is the weekend and I can't get a new battery. So I put it on the charger for 6 hrs that night. Put the battery in the bike to ride 55 miles to see Frosty. Starts up ok to return the 55 miles home. I had planed to have a ride with my work mate, so got up early put the battery on the charge for an hour. Put it back into the bike and it start ok all day.

Get home this afternoon after a 200 mile ride and put the vaultmetre on and find everything is working as it should. How can this be. It is the same battery. Nothing done to the charging system. The battery is excepting 14v at 2500 rpms. Before it would only except 13v. and was turning the starter over very slow.

Can you explain what is happening. Eric
 

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Well mate, throwing a curve ball at us.

If an Ole Fossil was to take a guess he would say that the Battery is on it's way out. Remember though my friend that you have a 1200, check those Stator connections.:eek:

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well mate, throwing a curve ball at us.

If an Ole Fossil was to take a guess he would say that the Battery is on it's way out. Remember though my friend that you have a 1200, check those Stator connections.:eek:

Good Luck
Checked the stator and ok. All the wires from the stator are ok. The wires to the regulator all ok. I was thinking maybe the battery had developed a memory, simular to rechargeable battery in a cell phone or a radio. Eric
 

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check the voltage regulator mate
 

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That's what I was thinking.....What Doc said.....check the regulator.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not that it means much but I put in a new regulator. Somehow I think it is all to do with the battery. The battery is one of those sealed glass battery by Motobatt. The battery no is MBTX24U. I will go to the net and see what I can find out about them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now I have done a bit of internet search. We all know that a battery that is just sitting, is not good for it. My Battery was sitting for 4 weeks. Now I don't think that is a real long time to sit. But to me, the battery would not charge properly from the bike but when it was put on the charger, it except the charge. Then once it had charged it keep it charge and except it's charge from the bike. Most times when I want the battery to charge quickly, go for a run and it charges quickly. Now what appears to have happen is the opposite. It didn't charge when I took it for a run. But it has held it's charge form the battery charger. Now the original battery is:

YUSSA YTX24X HL-BS : 12v, 21AH, 350 CCA

The replacement battery is:
MOTOBATT: 12v, 25AH, 285 CCA
 

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Eric, the symptom you described is very typical, if a battrey sits for awhile it will self discharge and the way a rectifier/regulator works can cause the battery not to fully charge under normal operating conditions.
To understand this, the rectifier receives the "raw" 45-60 volts AC from the stator in a 3 phase operation it then converts this to DC voltage, the regulator limits the amount of voltage and current supplied to the battery. The regulator looks at the battery voltage, when the voltage present at the battery exceeds 13.4V the regulator limits the amount of charging current, this prevent the battery from being over charged. As the current load is increased the battery voltage drops, this tells the regulator to supply more current to the battery.
Now looking at your symptom, the battery sit for 4 weeks, slowing discharging. There was enough supply current to start the bike however, the voltage seen by the regulator tells it the battery is charged and limiting the amount of current to your battery, this never allows your battery to reach a full charge. This is why most manufactures tell you to fully charge your battery before installing it.
 

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Eric; Lad. Did you remove the battery from the bike for charging ?? then re-install it in the bike after the charge.
If so I'm wondering if the Battery terminals were getting a bit cruddy, and removing the battery and re-installing it got you a bit better contact on the terminals. :confused:

And Stay Dry My Friend, Stay Dry:rolleyes:
 

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If you do take the battery out for charging, take it to a dealer and have them load test it. If it's weak, then you need a new battery. If it load tests ok, then you have other issues and I hate to say it, but I blame the stator:eek: or the regulator as mentioned above
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Eric, the symptom you described is very typical, if a battrey sits for awhile it will self discharge and the way a rectifier/regulator works can cause the battery not to fully charge under normal operating conditions.
To understand this, the rectifier receives the "raw" 45-60 volts AC from the stator in a 3 phase operation it then converts this to DC voltage, the regulator limits the amount of voltage and current supplied to the battery. The regulator looks at the battery voltage, when the voltage present at the battery exceeds 13.4V the regulator limits the amount of charging current, this prevent the battery from being over charged. As the current load is increased the battery voltage drops, this tells the regulator to supply more current to the battery.
Now looking at your symptom, the battery sit for 4 weeks, slowing discharging. There was enough supply current to start the bike however, the voltage seen by the regulator tells it the battery is charged and limiting the amount of current to your battery, this never allows your battery to reach a full charge. This is why most manufactures tell you to fully charge your battery before installing it.
Terryj: What you are saying fits what is happening. I could not understand how putting the battery on the charger and charging the battery could change what volts the battery received from the bike. Before the charge the bike was putting in 13 volts and therefore not charging the battery up. After the charge the bike was putting in 14 volts. Plenty to charge to battery. Never seen this before and I thought it could have something to do with it being a glass battery.
Ron : One of the first thing I did was take the battery out and file the battery cables to get good clean contact. I will keep a check on this battery. It is only 12 months old.
 

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Eric, if your voltmeter is reading 14+ volts then your battery is just receiving a float charge, voltage is inversely proportional to current, meaning the higher the voltage the lesser the current. If you exceed the current capacity of your stator by adding on lights and other equipment then you run the risk of damaging your stator due to heat buildup in the stator.
Under normal operating conditions one should see the volts drop a little bit when breaks are applied, current demand increases and therefore voltage decreases, if the voltage drop is dramatic ie 2 volts or more then you are exceeding the current load of your regulator. This would indicate a failing regulator or stator or to many add ons.
 

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What type of battery charger are you using? Some models will overcharge the battery and cause damage, I think most guys use the Battery Tender, I have had mine for years and it still works great. You mentioned that you checked your connections, on something that old the connection between the cable and the connector inside can be corroded or have broken wires. I try to crimp and then solder when possible, I have spend countless hours tracking a bad connection or a small short that would slowly drain a battery.
I once had a 70 Chevelle that I drag raced, if it sat for a few weeks the battery would be dead. It turned out to be a regulator wire that the insulation rubbed off and was touching the fender.
 

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Something to be aware of for all of us. These smaller batteries (and some larger deep cycle batteries) will lose 1% of their charge per day of inactivity. This does NOT include parasitic drain such as internal clocks and other systems (GPS etc) which only add to the leakage. If a battery is down some prior to sitting inactive, it's going to lose more over time. Doesn't take much of a drop to interrupt the starting procedure. All the bells and whistles might work, but cranking power might be low enough to result in 'no go'.
 

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I have adopted a practice of plugging into the battery tender everytime I park the bike in the garage. I learned about a month ago that the tender is not always working just because the light is on, don't take for granted that the battery is being charged. I learned this on my other bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have come back to this thread because I think my currant problem is related to what I experienced 6 months ago and what I am experiencing right now. But because it is a public holiday weekend I can't get a new battery until next week.
I had the battery charged up by our RAA two days ago and now the battery will not except a charge from the bike. I went out and brought a battery charger and have it on the charger right now. I also brought a multimeter and with battery on the charger for 6 hours should be full charged. Well it is along way from being charged.
If this is any indication of what Glass Batteries are like. I don't want one. This battery is only 18 months old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It is the so called latest Technology in batteries for watercraft and Motorcycle. It is a sealed battery. But I have had problems with it when I got back from the USA. It sat for about 6 weeks. If you charge the battery and put it back into the bike it will except charge from the bike. But after awhile it seems to get a memory and will not charge on the bike.
The brand is Motobatt. Take a look on the net. They give it a big wrap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Back to the ordinary lead acid battery with a good CC amps.
 
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