Honda Goldwing Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had my 88 GL1500 towed home via AAA for the send time in 2 weeks! First time, everything went out electrically at a stop sign. Got it home, found loose battery connections and corrected them. Charged back up and had load test done at AutoZone. Said battery was good. Topped it off one more time with the trickle charger. Headed out this morning for a trip to a family get together about 300 miles away. Got about 30 miles and display on the dash flickered a couple of times and went out. Looked at my volt meter and it said 10 volts. Tried to make it to the next road off the highway and it died within 1/2 mile. Called AAA and got them headed my way. Let it set for a few minutes then started it right back up, but volts were still only 10. Checked the connections for tightness while I revved it up to see if it would start charging above above 10. It would not. It died again within 30 seconds. Tried to restart and only heard clicking. Waited 5 minutes and then started it again, but it was still only at 10 or so volts. Now home and wondering what the heck to try next. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,607 Posts
Does your bike have the original alternator?
The regulator may have gone bad.
Remove the alternator and have it tested.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
581 Posts
Yep I would put my money on the alternator. As Trike Lady said remove it and take it to a alternator shop and have them test it. If need be they can repair it also....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,742 Posts
I betting the Alternator died. or the brush are stuck, which has been known to happen.
If it's stuck brushes not a big deal. If the alternator dead completely I'd replace it with a Compufire Alternator and a sealed battery. Not cheap but reliable and you don't have worry about the water in the battery.
Just my opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
yeah it sounds like the loose connections at the battery took out the alternator. or it was just its time.Good luck with the repair.to be on the safe side use a Battery Hydrometer to check each cell. this way you not relying on some snot nose kids opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, so did more troubleshooting and it looks like it is definitely the alternator. It was only putting out 11 volts reading directly at the alternator output after I had charged the battery all night. Was in hopes when I found a slight amount of corrosion where the negative battery cable attaches to the frame that after cleaning and reinstalling with diaelectric grease that is would be solved, but no such luck. Removed it and taking it to a shop tomorrow to see what they say. Thank you all for your help.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,948 Posts
Just my opinion, but sometimes a new battery solves electrical problems.

I am originally from South Dakota.... and it gets very cold (below zero) for 4 months a year. This strains car batteries and any weak battery is a no go. Put a new fresh battery in and wall la.... charging problems gone.

One needs a good battery for the charging system to work. It is the most fragile part of the electrical system. A momentary load test can show a battery is good when in fact it is weak. A good gel battery can be bought at Budget Battery for $85.

If I was putting in a new alternator, I would install a new battery at the same time. So, an initial trying a new battery would not cost any extra in the diagnosis and repair of your problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
787 Posts
I just replaced my alternator, after 103K miles, with an 85 amp Powermax alternator, it works great. The cost was about 185.00. I know a couple of guys in our Chapter that have used the Compufire alternator that will never buy another one, and there are those who swear by them. I figured I'd give this Powermax a try and see how it does, it's been installed a month now and works flawlessly, at 800 rpm I get around 13.8V and at 3000 rpm I get around 14.5. I run Silver Star 65w headlamps and at a stop light with breaks applied the volts will drop maybe 0.1volts. I'll keep you posted on my findings on this alternator.
There made in California by a company call R&Z Alternator, I talked with the owner of the company awhile back because I was curious as to how they could get 85 amps from a stock size alternator, he told me that the Stators are double wound and set up in a "star" configuration using 3 phase, this produces a higher current at lower rpms.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top