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Discussion Starter #1
Hallo all, just wondering if anyone else has had these symptoms that arose yesterday. After a brief stop on the way home the cruise control became non operative and when I arrived home, reverse also failed. Both had functioned normally earlier in the day. The reverse light would come on, but nothing happens when I push the button, they must be related somehow. I've visually checked all the fuses but they look fine, though I've been recently fooled by another fuse that appeared ok. My next step is to check continuity of all the related fuses. Possibly related to all this is I've noticed another symptom over the last couple of weeks and that is that occasionally when I start the bike the clock and the trip meters will have reset to zero (1:00am in the case of the clock). As always, even if it turns out to be a fuse, the question remains as to what caused the fuse to fail. Any insight will be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Strooth, I'm no diagnostic specialist , but it sounds like there are some gremlins in there. Where are you located?
 

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Strooth, first welcome to the forum. Sounds like a fuse or ground problem. Sometimes the clock will reset when the battery is disconnected. Tighten everything up and see if that changes anything. Good luck. Where is home for you??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Two wheel wing: Good idea, I had the same thought myself about the battery terminals and it's possible cause of the clock reset as I was drifting off to sleep last night, just haven't followed up on it yet, can do that right now. I doubt it's the culprit on the cruise and reverse failure though, thanks. Home is the San Diego area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two wheel wing: Update, good news/bad news. The good news is that I guess I'm still a half decent mechanic because all the battery terminals are secure. The bad news is that that means it's not the cause of the reset problem. Often times finger trouble is the cause of new problems and I had just been in there recently installing new cables for heated clothing. I think I might have some intermittent connection somewhere in the system (resetting the clock etc.) as the battery always seems very strong for cranking. The first thing I did yesterday when I got home was to put the bike on the battery tender.......now, reverse works. I haven't ridden it to test the cruise, but my guess is that it's fine. I could imagine low battery voltage causing the reverse to default to failure mode (battery is quite new by the way), and maybe it's possible for the cruise to be affected also. Chronic problems can be a pain to track down.
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track. Was the battery fully charged when you put it in. Sometimes if they are not charged to start they act funny.. Good luck, let us know the resolution.
 

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Cruise control problem

Hi Strooth,If you still have a problem with the cruise control here is the sequence of checking the complete system with a multimeter. Good luck, Mick Denmark.

The Master control unit.
The master control unit accepts all the system inputs and gives various outputs to control the vehicles speed. The master unit is principally a microprocessor that has its own software built on board. The unit monitors the inputs from the actuation and safety switches and offers outputs to control the vacuum valves and cruise indicator lights.

The Actuator switches.
The actuator switches mounted on the right side handle bar control unit allow the system to be armed by the cruise on switch and speed controlled by the set-deceleration / resume-acceleration switch.

Safety Switches
Various safety switches are employed within the system and are as follows

Front brake cruise cancel
Clutch cancel
Throttle cancel
Rear brake cruise cancel
4th gear switch
5th gear switch
In this section it must be noted that the 4th & 5th gear switches are inside the engine and can only be tested from the outside, there is no need to dismantle the engine unless you really feel the need.

The throttle, Front and rear brake switches
Throttle switch
The throttle switch will disengage the cruise control system if turned fully in the deceleration direction.

The front and rear brake switches
If either/both the brake switches are depressed the cruise system will cancel automatically

The Clutch switch
The clutch switch works in the same way as the Front and rear brake switch

4th and 5th Gear switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine the switch has an output to every gear position including the neutral position for clarity we have only shown the neutral.4th and 5th gear positions.

The full testing guide, which you can use at your own risk, can be downloaded as a printable Word Document. The document comes with pictures to help you find your way around.

It must be understood by you, that the use of this Technical help file is used entirely at your own risk, no responsibility or liability can be placed on the writer whatsoever.

Before you get started you should have read the introduction on the page you have just left, this gives an overview of the system. All terminology regarding left and right assumes you are sat on the vehicle and facing forward. You will need to take off the seat of the vehicle, towards the rear of the seat there is a plastic cover box on either side and look identical, on the right side of the vehicle is the cruise control box with the plug we need access to. Unclip the box from the holding bracket and open the unit by the self locking clips, inside the box will be a plug and socket. once open, unplug the plug and socket and take the box away and put it safe.


The photo shows the plug disconnected. . The part to the left (plug) goes to the cruise control unit, the right (socket) goes into the main wiring loom to the safety, control switches relays and vacuum system solenoids. This is where we carry out all the electrical testing from. If you want to know where the control unit is located, well it's right under the trunk and a bit of a pain to reach.... but at this stage you don't need to go there. As you look at the photo I have added PIN numbers to the picture to allow you easy reference to the socket. Warnings PINS 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 14, 15, 20 SHOULD NOT BE TESTED.



Lets get started with the tests.....
The first test is to ensure that we have a supply available to the cruise control unit, this is carried out with the test meter set to read DC Volts. The Red test probe should be connected to Pin 17and the black test probe connected to the frame. Turn on the ignition switch and press the cruise "ON" switch to activate the cruise control system, the meter should then read approx 12 Volts.

Turn off the Cruise "ON" switch and the Ignition switch. Take out the ignition key and put it in your pocket.
The following tests should be carried out with the test meter set to read Resistance or buzzer.
Do Not turn on the ignition or Cruise "ON" switch unless told to do so

Cruise set /deceleration & resume/ acceleration Switch's
The first test to be carried out is the operation of the set/deceleration & resume/acceleration switches. This is accomplished by putting the Red test probe to Pin 17 and the Black test probe into Pin 21 Push the set/deceleration switch the meter should then show a low resistance or buzz (if available). Change the black test probe to Pin 22 and push the resume/acceleration button the same readings should occur as for the Push the set/deceleration switch.
Change the black test probe to Pin 16, you should show a resistance of around 95 ohms, if you do then relay 2 coil is fine.



Clutch Switch
To test the clutch switch operation we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 12, when the clutch switch is pulled in the meter should show a low resistance or buzz (if available).

Throttle, Front and rear brake switches
The next bit needs a little explanation so you are aware of whats going on. The throttle, Front and rear brake switches are wired in series this means we can test all of them at once, these switches are the safety circuit which holds in relay 2 (the cruise set relay) which applies the live feed to the vacuum solenoids.
To test this circuit we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 6, The meter should be showing a low resistance or buzz (if available), when the front brake switch is pulled in the meter should show a high resistance or the buzzer (if available) should stop, releasing the brake lever should turn the buzz back on, repeat the test for the rear brake lever.
The throttle is tested by turning the throttle all the way down (in the decel direction) and the same results should occur
If you do not hear the buzzer straight away, one of the switches or cables between them is faulty.



Cruise system indicator lights (Dash panel)
Place the Red test probe in pin 17, turn on the cruise"ON" switch (right handlebar switch), place the black test probe into Pin 18, the meter should read approx 11 ohms. this tells you that the "cruise on indicator lamp" is fine. Now Place the black test probe in pin 7, the meter should read approx11 ohms again, this tells you that the "cruise set indicator lamp" is fine.

4th and 5th Gear Switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine but can also be tested from the socket. with the red test probe connected to Pin 10 and the black test probe to the frame, begin to take the bike into 4th gear, you may need a hand to work the back wheel to get there, once you do the meter should show a resistance of 0ohms, change the red test probe to Pin 9 and go up to 5th gear, the test should have the same result.



Solenoid Valve testing
To test the solenoid valves on the vacuum system follow the procedure as follows;
The Red test probe should be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Vent and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 13, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 13, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vent valve.



If the readings above are correct your vacuum valves are fine, this covers the testing of the electrical system other than relay 2 latching circuit connections, this is due to the relay being driven by the cruise control unit. This could be achieved by putting a shorting wire across the open connections of the relay base but this is not worth doing unless you know which terminal to put it across. If all the above tests are fine then its down to either the vacuum system or the cruise control unit itself, I know you don't want to know this but the unit costs around £700.00. so be sure you test everything. you can Reassemble the plug and socket, put the cover box back in place. but do not replace the seat yet



Testing the Vacuum system.
To test the vacuum system you will need to have the engine running, Firstly take off the left side inner fairing to gain access to the solenoid valve assembly, This is easily locates and looks like a black steel block with a vent, pipes and cable coming out of it, disconnect the pipe that goes down to the actuator body, start the engine, and suck on the open end of the pipe very gently (or you may rupture the diaphragm) once you start to suck (gently) the engine revs should increase, if this occurs without losing the vacuum in your mouth put your tongue over the pipe. This should maintain the vacuum and stabilize the engine rev's. If it does your vacuum system would appear to be working fine from the valve assembly, However the fault could lie in the pipe work prior to the valve assembly. That's when you want the Professional help ( have you seen the amount of pipes on the engine ) trust me don't go there.
 

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