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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1998 Goldwing 1500A. Ran fine until yesterday. Bike will not start normally now. If I jump the fuel pump off the battery it starts and runs fine. If I disconnect the jumper the bike will run out of fuel and not restart normally. I have no power at the fuel pump connector (black/blue wire). I am assuming the ECU went bad. I performed the test the manual shows for the wire. Should have approx. 6 ohms. I have 6.6 ohms so I guess that wire is good. All fuses are good, tested with a light. I don't see a relay in the circuit for the fuel pump so I am leaning toward the ECU. Very expensive so looking for opinions or confirmation. Any suggestions???:)
 

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If the ECM were bad the bike wouldn't run. If you go through the schematic for the fuel system in the service manual it would show you what controls the fuel system. I believe there may be a relay involved.

wingr8
Welcome to the forum and greetings from Florida.
 

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I have read the manual too many times to count and I don't see anything in between the ECU and the fuel pump. Honda stopped using a relay in the circuit in 1989, from what I was told. The bike will not run normally thru the ECU. It will only run if I bypass the hot from the ECU and run a hot from the battery to the fuel pump. Without a new ground that tells me the ground is good. I have checked all fuses I know of...they are good. The kill switch is good because the bike will crank and the ign switch is good because everything else works in the run position. The wire from the ecu to the pump is known good because of the ohm test I performed. Thanks for your thoughts, I appreciate the input. :)
 

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hi wingr8, try testing the bank angle sensor, located on right rear of m/c behind rt saddlebag an if good look at number 8 relay in your fuse box. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi 2580,

I thought if the bank angle sensor was bad the bike woundn't crank?
Anyway, I performed the tests in the manual and I have proper ohms on the fuel pump power wire, I have power on the red, red/white, and black/white wires, as I should, at the harness connector going into the ECU. Direct feed off the battery and the bike will run. The only place I see the pump feed comes from is the ECU. I think an internal failure would cause no power from the ECU to the pump. I switched relays anyway for peace of mind. No difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have looked at some used ECUs, but they are from $125.00 up to about $150.00 plus shipping. I think that is a lot of money to risk on a used electrical part. I found a brand new one from Ron Ayers for $285.00 delivered. Suggested retail is over $400.00. A lot more money but I think a lot less risk.
 

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wingr8
The price is excellent for a new one, makes more sense than the gamble on a used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE; Thanks for all the input. The ECU came Saturday and I had some time this morning so I plugged it in and the bike starts right up. Back together and ready to ride.
Thanks again.
 

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Fair marks to you for nailing that down wingr8, I'm not that patient or determined and would have phoned the shop. Welcome to the forum btw.
 
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