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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday I got up early and decided to chase down the leak I developed. Pulled the radiators and Looked them over good. Didn't see that green slime anywhere indicating a leak. The bypass hose was slightly questionable so I changed it out with some 5/16 hose I had cut to length and used new hose clamps. Flushed the system and dropped in a new thermostat while I was there. I finally got it back together 5 hours later. I started it up on the center stand and looked for leaks. once she reached operating temp it started dripping down the coils and the right radiator(facing the bike). I couldn't see where the leak was coming from. I suspect the puke bottle. Anyone have any other ideas of where to look. Like I said The leak is high in the frame.
 

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Honda put clear tape on the Radiator tubes that tends to dry out over time and leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It seems to have a slight leak at the filler neck either that or from spillage, and where it go's into the tank looks bad. The rubber grommet that it slides into is deteriorated I cant see it well but it looks to have been leaking around there for a while. I cleanes off the clear tape from the upper and lower tubes on the radiators yesterday. I"m going to pop my radio out of the way and see what I can do from there. I really really didn't want to drop the puke tank out. My problem is that this is my daily ride to and from work. I leave my wife the car unless the weather is extremely bad. Do y'all think it'll hurt anything if I plug the line temporarily untill I can get the part?
 

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I can't remember how or just what I had to do to replace the gromet and hose for the over flow a few years back but I know I didn't remove the tank.
Don't know about plugging the tube could force coolant out other places like make be around the cap. Think I'd just leave the old one in till the new one arrives. At least some of the over flow coolant will make it to the the tank. Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks kinda what I was afraid of and wouldn't ya know it mother honda is out of stock and has to order it. Atleast that explaines where the puff of steam came from last week. That's gotta be my leak the back side of the tank where the line go's in is almost white I just couldn't see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just got back from honda. $10.81 and a few days wait. I'll just hang loose til my part gets here no sense in damaging anything else. the tube came out easy enough I just lifted on one side and it rolled out of the hole. I should have caught this alot sooner there's been a problem for a while and I seriously over thought the issue. Jeeezzz forgot the exhaust header stud and nut. Did the shift shaft seal too and got carried away on one of the little studs.
 

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Well so far it sounds like your Wing is in good hands. Did you drill a 1/8th" hole in the t-stat? Or is there provisions built into the new t-stat to purge the air? Some t-stats have a factory bleed hole. Your system will work without this vent but it makes knowing your cooling system is air free easier. Btw the over flow could have been cut out of the loop but it is best to leave it connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got a stant that had a hole and was centered. Lots cheaper than mother honda. The seal came from honda the ones I found cross referenced were close and that wasn't gonna work considering how deep you need to go for something that should have been better located. Anyway I decided to wait for my level tube instead of blocking the tube off and riding.
 

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I also had to change the shift shaft seal on my '88....went through TWO :eek: sets of copper exhaust gaskets...hehe..forgot to put the pre-heat tube shield back on first!!:rolleyes: No lessons are bad..unless you often repeat them!!:eek:
BTW, I went through two "sets" because I figured since I had one side off already.. I removed all the exhaust including the heat shields & cleaned n painted them with header paint!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ya know I came across a post somewhere today that said don't get carried wawy with the torque on the exhaust studs. Like anything else for me too little too late. So far everything I did was suppose to be a real pita and it's not that bad. I was worried about the thermostat and it's right there after the radiators are out. That seal was a piece of cake mine almost fell out anyway it was harder getting the new one seated lol. The issue I have is seeing anything. I kept missing that leaking level tube. I looked twice and thought na thats not enough to cause that much of a leak but it was and explained everything in the end. I wished the coils were easier to drop. If my wing sits in a good rain it won't start. Same when I give it a good wash. At least I can check the boots on the wires easy enough and weatherproof them now. Gotta keep wrenching on a wing a zen thing be one with the machine and all that b.s or you'll want to burn it in place.
 

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The Honda factory manual says the torque value for those exhaust nuts is only 7 ft. lbs!!!:eek: It doesn't feel right..like they would work loose, but that's what is called for. Those copper rings are VERY soft..so go easy...:D
BTW, Look closely in the exhaust ports at the block, I found more than one of those seals..crushed together, had to use a pick to pull them out....unless you really look up in there it's easy to miss them.
 

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I forget who mentions it frequently here, maybe Ron?, but be sure to check the drain holes just below the plugs. When I washed mine recently it ran hinky afterward, I pulled all the plug wires and sure enough one was sitting in water!:eek: 12" piece of coat hanger and a shot of Gumout later and all was good.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just a quick update. Got my level tube in yesterday and put it back in the reserve tank. The old one just fell out and the new one was a real pita!!! Could have made it easier on myself and removed my radio console but that just made too much sense duh.....
Anyway I got it in and put the cooling system back together this morning. I bled the system and let it run up to half temp and what do ya know no more leaks. Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions. I'm a member on a few other forums and either no one had any idea or just didn't care to answer. Now to reinstall the fans and upper tupperware. I have to remove the broken stud from my header and go to a parts store to see if I can match up a bolt to work. Honda says they are no linger avaliable. Gave me the 10 year production story.
 

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The difference between us and them is caring not just for Chosen few that get to ride Wings but caring for people and motorcyclist. I am glad you found the help you needed way to go guys another happy customer , that is until he gets the bill.:eek::D
 

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As far as coils and plug wires getting wet, on my other bikes I always used wire dryer to seal all the wires. I could ride through water with a rouster tail and never had a miss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Tatanka I didn't know there were drain holes and sure enough mine were plugged up to some degree. I washed the beast and flooded water down the fairing to the engine and it started right up. I thought she was just pissy about having to sit in the rain sometimes. After the morining ride to work all was good with the old wing. No oil leaking past the shifter seal, the temp never got to half and I did sit in traffic a little. One more tiny project to fix the exhaust leak I caused due to breaking a stud. I got a handful of 8mm x 56mm bolts that should cure the problem. This time I'll go easy on the torque lol......
 

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I sprung for a digital tprque wrench last summer and am I ever glad I did. Makes jobs like those studs goof proof. Just a point for those of you that are thinking of going the digital route, these things are ultra sensitive and under high torque loads (60-100lb/ft) they are really touchy.
 
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