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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1500 sat for about 3 weeks without riding it, just had too much going on to ride. Last weekend I went for a short ride, and the clutch is acting up. When it is pulled all the way in, I go to release it, and it only goes out about an inch before the wants to take off. Went to take it to work today, and it seems like its worse. Gears really clunk, and finding neutral is really hard. Any ideas?
 

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I'd start with the easy stuff first. Flush and bleed the clutch, system.
What does the fluid look like in the site glass if it's not clear and starting to look like tea or worse it's way past time. And if it's really bad the salve cylinder might need rebuilding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd start with the easy stuff first. Flush and bleed the clutch, system.
What does the fluid look like in the site glass if it's not clear and starting to look like tea or worse it's way past time. And if it's really bad the salve cylinder might need rebuilding.
Thanks Ron! How do I flush and bleed the system?
 

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Put the bike on its center stand and turn the bars to the right until the reservoir is level. Remove the top cap, plate and diaphram. Connect a bleeder hose to the bleed valve of the slave cylinder and loosen the valve. Pump the clutch lever until fluid stops running out of the hose. If you're careful, you can drain and fill in one operation, just keep adding fresh fluid as the level goes down and you're good once the fluid coming out is nice and clean.
To fill,, if you darin the system of the old dirty stuff, fill the reservoir back up to the proper level with Dot 4 fluid from an unopened container (protect painted surfaces from spillage, brake fluid is harsh stuff). To bleed the air out, squeeze the lever until resistance starts to build up, then with a hose still connected to the bleeder valve, open the valve about 1/4 and then close it. Just keep repeating the procedure all the air bubbles are gone. Make sure the valve is tight when you're done.
If I've missed anything, Ron can correct me but that's it pretty much.
 

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I use a mini vac system I bought at NAPA. I can't remember what I paid seems it was around $50.00. For me it was worth it, we use it at our GWRRA chapter maintenance day every spring.

1. Start by removing the left side panels and locating the bleeder valve. It's located down low and toward the rear on the side. Should have a little rubber cap on it.
2. remove the clutch reservoir. Here you want to be careful in the bottom of the reservoir you'll see where the fluid enter the line, you see a little metal tab looking thing note how it sets in the whole and don't lose it if you remove it to clean the reservoir.
3. Use the mini VAX to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then clean the reservoir bowl, being careful of that tab.
4. Refill the bowl with fresh DOT4 fluid.and connect the vac to the bleed valve , mae sure it's a good tight fit.. *(Becareful not to get brake fluid on the paint. Bad, Very Bad)
5.Build up a vacume the open the valve. **( Note: keep and eye on the reservoir bowl, Do Not repete Do Not run it dry,if you do you'll pull air into the system and make the job take longer), refill the reservoir when you have at least 1/4 of fuild in the bottom yet to avoid the air in the system issue.. Once you start getting fresh clear fluid your done.
NOte remember to close the valve between fills.

I hope this is understand able. Don't want to sound like I'm talking down to you.
:eek:
PS you have a PM
 

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If you follow the tube for the bleeder valve back a little way it will take you to the slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help guys, I finally got a chance to look at it today. Bled the clutch, and everything works great now.
 

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Many times it's the simple, inexpensive things that make it happen.
 

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Kinda makes ya feel warm all over:cool:
 
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