clutch fluid color new and used
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should be clear when new and turn dark as it ages
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And you should flush the system out every two years with new fluid, do thew clutch at the same time. Not a hard job but it's easier with two people unless you use a mityvac bleeder.
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743 Posts
Clutch and brake fluid are the same. most use dot3 or 4. Some are clear, some look like flat beer. go to your local auto parts store and look at it, on top of resivor cover it tells what kind you need
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1,179 Posts
It depends on the brand you choose as to it's color.
I keep seeing responses as the one above, however, every Honda I have ever owned have come brand new w/a light amber color to the brake/clutch fluids.
I have never seen any perfectly clear in my many Hondas!
However, clear must exist as this is the answer I got from goggle:
When brand new, its clear, and slightly golden like vegetable oil.
I have also seen it with a purple tint!
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1,179 Posts
I know what is recommended but, how often do you change the brake fluid in your cage?
As to the color of "used" fluid, my brake and clutch fluids were changed after 4years and because I had my bike triked. I cannot attest to the color of the used clutch fluid but, the brake fluid was still the same "honey" color as when the bike was brand new!
As to the color of "used" fluid, my brake and clutch fluids were changed after 4years and because I had my bike triked. I cannot attest to the color of the used clutch fluid but, the brake fluid was still the same "honey" color as when the bike was brand new!
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1,622 Posts
There is no way to tell if the fluid, clutch or brake, is bad by looking at it. Brake fluid can hold 30% water in it and you can't tell the difference from new but you sure will know it when you are holding the clutch in and the bike starts to creep forward.
With the brakes... Braking efficiency is greatly reduced and seve brake fade can happen suddenly as soon as the moisture reaches the wet boiling point.
Brakes and clutch should be bled one year and completely flushed the next year.
DOT's 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is a stand alone fluid and cannot be used if your brake system calls for the above fluids even if flushed.
Brake fluid is one of the most overlooked fluids on any vehicle and is the Most Important.
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
With the brakes... Braking efficiency is greatly reduced and seve brake fade can happen suddenly as soon as the moisture reaches the wet boiling point.
Brakes and clutch should be bled one year and completely flushed the next year.
DOT's 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is a stand alone fluid and cannot be used if your brake system calls for the above fluids even if flushed.
Brake fluid is one of the most overlooked fluids on any vehicle and is the Most Important.
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
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743 Posts
test strips available to see how much moister is in your clutch/brake fluid.
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24,648 Posts
From my past exploits on two wheels this thread makes me give a big 
when I look back. On my CB750C, I know I never changed the brake fluid. My GL1200 got changed twice in 8 years and 167,000(yeesh), my Interceptor never got changed in the two years I rode it about 12,000 on the clock, and my GL1500 got done once in the four years and 60,000 I put on it. The only reason I did do the changes was I was concerned with the colour of the fluid (coffee dark). My Vulcan had over 30,000 on it and I changed it once after the braided lines were put on, so that mad two times in total. Never really thought about it that much, because everything semed to work fine. I always checked the pad wear, just mostly ignored the fluid. Pretty stupid when you think about how valuable our braking performance is to us.
when I look back. On my CB750C, I know I never changed the brake fluid. My GL1200 got changed twice in 8 years and 167,000(yeesh), my Interceptor never got changed in the two years I rode it about 12,000 on the clock, and my GL1500 got done once in the four years and 60,000 I put on it. The only reason I did do the changes was I was concerned with the colour of the fluid (coffee dark). My Vulcan had over 30,000 on it and I changed it once after the braided lines were put on, so that mad two times in total. Never really thought about it that much, because everything semed to work fine. I always checked the pad wear, just mostly ignored the fluid. Pretty stupid when you think about how valuable our braking performance is to us.
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I had a Certification in brakes some years ago. It truly is one of the most overlooked maintenance items in all vehicles.
You can lose 30-40% of your braking efficiency and not really notice it as it is gradual and you compensate without realizing it.
I'll try and find the pics of new brake fluid and one with I believe 30% water, you can't see the difference.
Here is another maintenance item that is overlooked. How often should should you change the power steering fluid in your vehicles ?
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
You can lose 30-40% of your braking efficiency and not really notice it as it is gradual and you compensate without realizing it.
I'll try and find the pics of new brake fluid and one with I believe 30% water, you can't see the difference.
Here is another maintenance item that is overlooked. How often should should you change the power steering fluid in your vehicles ?
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
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1,622 Posts
I think almost all of us are guilty of that.
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob
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2,238 Posts
Before buying the GL1800 I had never changed brake fluid in any vehicle I owned. When I got the Wing I wanted to do all the req'd maintenance and when I saw that brake fluid was to be replaced I did some googling and reading up on it. I was very surprised to read what an effect water absorption in the fluid has on the brakes. Did the Vulcan last weekend and will do the Wing again this year (2 years since I did it the 1st time), then it'll be time to move on and do the kids vehicles.
FWIW, the DOT4 I got from NAPA was the same colour as what I got from Honda - a very light amber - kind of like a light lager. But much thicker of course. And way worse tasting...
FWIW, the DOT4 I got from NAPA was the same colour as what I got from Honda - a very light amber - kind of like a light lager. But much thicker of course. And way worse tasting...
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3,950 Posts
i'm kinda like budoka, only a little worse. I've never changed my brake or clutch oil in any of the bikes I've owned. I don't ever follow the recommended changes on anything except the oil itself. as long as its shifting and braking fine, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Brake fluid (and clutch) should be bled 1 year and then completely flushed the next year. In reality, you cannot see brake fluid contaminated with water even as high as 30%. You just lose braking efficiency which you may not notice until in an emergency situation.
Even if I bought another new bike, the first thing it would get as soon as it hit my driveway, would be a brake flush.
Even if I bought another new bike, the first thing it would get as soon as it hit my driveway, would be a brake flush.
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1,179 Posts
Maybe someone could explain how moisture would get into a sealed system to start with?
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Brake fluid is Hygroscopic (not Hydro..) just to start meaning it will pull moisture from anywhere including the air.
Moisture may also be created from heating and cooling. The brake fluid gets hot enough to turn contained water into steam which is why you lose brakes and, in the case of a Wing, you lose the clutch.
Moisture is also pulled right through the rubber lines.
If brake fluid looks bad (discolored), it has been bad for a long time.
I have done brake jobs the right way, and several people said they almost put themselves through the windshield. This is because they got use to the brakes getting worse a little at a time.
Moisture may also be created from heating and cooling. The brake fluid gets hot enough to turn contained water into steam which is why you lose brakes and, in the case of a Wing, you lose the clutch.
Moisture is also pulled right through the rubber lines.
If brake fluid looks bad (discolored), it has been bad for a long time.
I have done brake jobs the right way, and several people said they almost put themselves through the windshield. This is because they got use to the brakes getting worse a little at a time.
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How can moisture be pulled through the lines and fluid not be expelled under pressure of braking?
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It may not sound feasible but, it is true according to engineers where I got my Master Certificate in brakes.
I have seen samples of fluids with 30% moisture in them where you couldn't tell the difference from fresh fluid in side by side beakers.
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