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Discussion Starter #1
This job is making me miss my old Kawasaki Voyager XII. Changing the air filter was a snap. Compounding the problem is whoever last did this job put everything back together with air wrenches. Holy crap! I've dug down to the last two hex bolts holding the dashboard on my 2005 Goldwing, and they won't budge. I soaked them with some type of liquid wrench product and decided to call it a night. Is there a better way to loosen those? I found a pretty good Youtube video to walk me through the process. Other than there being way too many steps, it isn't too hard, except for those stuck bolts. I told my wife to watch out, as I would be feeling mighty manly when I finally get this job done!
 

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I suggest an impact rated socket attached to an impact wrench/drill. These also come in "right angle' configurations for tight spaces. I have used flex adapters before for really tight conditions. but sometimes they don't survive.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok. I got the bolts out by soaking them in liquid wrench overnight, then giving them a quick whack with a hammer before I unscrewed them. Now I'm stuck trying to unhook the electrical connector underneath the dashboard, right in front of the key switch. I've watched two videos and the guys just reach in there and presto-change-o, the connector is unhooked. I reach in there and nothing happens other than I scrape my hand every time. Grrr. Any tips on getting this connector apart?
 

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Can't help you with getting that plug apart, it's a bear, but what I did with mine years ago was to file off the little tab that locks it. Mine comes apart easily with a tug now and has never come apart on its own.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

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That clip is not that hard once you have done it a couple times. Take a small flat bladed screwdriver and ontop of that connector from the right side press down on the catch with the screwdriver and pull the connector out at the same time. Some people file that catch off after they get it out. When you put everything back together those screws or bolts don't need to be but lightly hand tight. Put rags along so you don't drop a tool down into the black hole.
 

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I suggest an impact rated socket attached to an impact wrench/drill. These also come in "right angle' configurations for tight spaces. I have used flex adapters before for really tight conditions. but sometimes they don't survive.
Yes, I have a 3/8 impact driver and socket allens and socket phillips to use on those gorilla fasteners that people think to over tighten because their bikes are flying to the moon or something. Usually a tap in the impact driver is enough to have the fastener turn just a tiny bit so a regular tool will work.
 

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When taking the top shelter off, I mark every screw with dots with a sharp permanent marker. 1 dot then 2 dots, etc. Those bolts have shoulders of different lengths and I want them to go back in the same holes they came out of. Each left and right sides are mirrors of each other so I start with the two bolts at the speakers and mark them going down the side under the trim. Sure makes it easier putting them back in.
 

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Ok. I got the bolts out by soaking them in liquid wrench overnight, then giving them a quick whack with a hammer before I unscrewed them. Now I'm stuck trying to unhook the electrical connector underneath the dashboard, right in front of the key switch. I've watched two videos and the guys just reach in there and presto-change-o, the connector is unhooked. I reach in there and nothing happens other than I scrape my hand every time. Grrr. Any tips on getting this connector apart?
Make sure the connector's snap lock is disconnected while your pulling on it. I had a heck of a time getting my unhooked too. It has one of those plastic bars that fit over a piece of raised plastic to lock it in place, just like all of the other connectors on the bike.

I gave blood today, I worked on my Wing!!:laugh2:
 

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When taking the top shelter off, I mark every screw with dots with a sharp permanent marker. 1 dot then 2 dots, etc. Those bolts have shoulders of different lengths and I want them to go back in the same holes they came out of. Each left and right sides are mirrors of each other so I start with the two bolts at the speakers and mark them going down the side under the trim. Sure makes it easier putting them back in.
I made a cardboard template of the screw location. Just put the screws in the right spots on the template.
Did the same thing with the trunk inner liner.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Please don't kick me off the board for all my questions. I am trying to take the fake tank off. There are two big plug ins holding it in place. I think they are for the radio. Do you just pull them straight out or is there some twisting or shoving involved? I am determined not to damage my bike during this process! Watched three videos without getting much insight on this. BTW, thanks for all the responses so far. And I have made a template for the screws. Except for the two I dropped.
 

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Please don't kick me off the board for all my questions. I am trying to take the fake tank off. There are two big plug ins holding it in place. I think they are for the radio. Do you just pull them straight out or is there some twisting or shoving involved? I am determined not to damage my bike during this process! Watched three videos without getting much insight on this. BTW, thanks for all the responses so far. And I have made a template for the screws. Except for the two I dropped.
Did you take the seat off and remove the nuts on either side that is behind the corner of the seat? Also if I remember correctly there are two screws under the key guard.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The seat came off first. I've been following two videos on Youtube. The Steve Saunders video and one by some Canadian fellow. I've got the top cover loose, except for disconnecting the electrical connectors underneath it. I have a three day weekend coming up, so I'm determined to get it finished. We've got a fall-foliage tour planned in October and I want it to be ready.
 
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