If you have a working ICU. I'm willing to trade 2 of my defective ICU's.I was able to repair a similar unit on an 89 K100. There are a couple of capacitors that tend to go bad. On that K bile, I was able to do it for $10 or so. Of course the large paper capacitors were a special order item, but I was able to get them from Digikey. It's been my experience that a lot of electronics get tossed when a couple of new capacitors could salvage them easily. Since caps have atomic level "moving" parts, they do wear out over time.
If you have any skill with a soldering iron, you might try looking for any funny looking capacitors to replace, or any can type capacitors that show any sign of deformation. It could be risky, but if it's already not working, might be worth a try.
The part number Glblinded posted is what you are looking for.
Do you have a picture of the old
Yes.The part number Glblinded posted is what you are looking for.
Do you have a picture of the old one?
quote"julimike54 said:
Above is the name of the item you're looking for, not ECM, it should be ICU
Have you tried Straightwings....
StraightWings
I thought they're the same.
Perfect. Glad to see availability.The OP says he has 2 defective units. Something happened when he reversed the connections on the starter relay. Wondering how he knows the igniter unit is the problem without trying a known good one. Hard to tell exactly what happened with the reverse polarity.
Here is a company that sells new aftermarket ones.
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1984-1987 Honda Goldwing GL1200 TCI Igniter CDI Unit
This is a new aftermarket replacement for the Goldwing GL1200 Igniter (TCI) which has been discontinued by Honda. OE #(s): 30400-MG9-741, 30400-MG9-742 The original ignition unit may have been stamped with one of these numbers: (TID14-32, MG9, 131100-4260, 131100-3820, 131100-4261, AKBZ40...www.regulatorrectifier.com
I still think it may be another problem. Let's see if the OP is wiling to spend the money for a new unit.Perfect. Glad to see availability.
I sent a link for a brand new CDI.I have electrical trouble shooting manual for gl 1200A. My bike cranks but won't start. There is no spark on the spark plugs. Coils tested according to specs. The diode, battery, and sparkplugs are new. Manual says that to test for the CDI or ICU to know if it's working, connect the negative pole of the digital meter to battery negative pole and the positive pole end of the meter to the disconnected connector ( wiring side) of the ignition coil and start the engine. If there is no spark, the CDI is defective.
Tnx for the links for CDI. The kill switch is in run position. I'll check if there is voltage running on it. I just thought of it yesterday. I want to make sure (WITH YOUR HELP) that there is nothing I've missed before buying the new CDI.I sent a link for a brand new CDI.
After all the extensive troubleshooting, you never mentioned checking the kill switch. The 1200 will crank and not start if the switch is off or defective. Do you have the 12 volt going to the control unit?
I no longer have the manual for my 1200, so this is just a guess.
I tested the kill switch. It's good. Is there anything else that I missed which prevents the sptark plugs to spark? I just don't want to buy expensive ICU if that is not the cause of no spark.Tnx for the links for CDI. The kill switch is in run position. I'll check if there is voltage running on it. I just thought of it yesterday. I want to make sure (WITH YOUR HELP) that there is nothing I've missed before buying the new CDI.
I have 11.76 volts going to the ignition coil. At the kill switch I have 0.17 volts open (0) position while 0.00 at run position. Battery voltage is 13.7 volts.Do you have 12 volts at the kill switch? 12 volts while on and 0 when off.
I'm not sure since I don't have my manual anymore, but it may be the pulse generator located under the timing belt cover. Do you have 12 volts going to the ICU?
Hopefully someone familiar with a 1200 will respond. It's been 20 years since I had my '85.
Correction on earlier reply. I got 6.67 volts at the kill switch.I have 11.76 volts going to the ignition coil. At the kill switch I have 0.17 volts open (0) position while 0.00 at run position. Battery voltage is 13.7 volts.