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I have an '06 GL1800 with a MotorTrike conversion. I noticed yesterday that the brake lights are on all the time. Any ideas about the problem and solution? Thanks!
 

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Hi, you will need to start tracing the circuit starting at the activation switches on the hand brake and foot brake. Even just working the switch with some electrical contact cleaner and a finger MAY get it functional again, albeit, short term. If a switch is found lacking, replace it, of course. I had a malfunctioning aftermarket run/brake light unit internally short once causing the same condition, but that isn’t common.
 

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Whoa, whoa, whoa... leave the cap on that WD-40 for now. In fact, leave the cap on ANY time you're looking at electrical components. My go to contact cleaner is De-Oxit - WD-40 is a water-displacing oil and should never be applied to anything electrical. Mechanical, fine... but not on your contacts.

There are two microswitches on the right handlebar and two more by your right foot that control the brake lights and the clutch disconnect.You need to test the brake light switch on each assembly to see which one is triggering your lights. The Clymer manual has directions on testing each. Basically, start with the right handle bar. You'll see two switches with two wires each - spade lug connectors. IIRC, the smaller spade lugs are on the brake switch. Pull those off and see if your brake lights go off - this, by the way, goes MUCH easier with a helper... or a strategically placed mirror. If they DO go off, your trouble is in that switch. I think that one can be adjusted - RTFM to be sure. You can also test the switch with a VOM set to measure continuity (or resistance; set it at the Rx1 range. If you don't get a change in the continuity when testing the switch, that's a bad switch. I think they're less than $10 to replace.

Now, if taking the connections off the handlebar switch didn't do anything, look by your right foot brake - there are two switches there, too, that control the brake lights and the clutch disconnect. And I don't recall which connector is which - Clymer will have it. If you don't have a Clymer book, send me an email at dwarven1 at gmail.com and I'll scan the pages and send them to you. Fast test - pull the connector off and see if your brake lights go out. IF they do, odds are your switches need to be adjusted. You need to loosen the two JIS screws that hold the switch assembly in place and move it up or down so that you hear clicking from the two switches when you move the brake pedal down by .7mm-1.7mm - if you don't hear the clicking, it's a sure sign that the bar controlling the switches is set so that it's not letting the switches open.
 

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Whoa, whoa, whoa... leave the cap on that WD-40 for now. In fact, leave the cap on ANY time you're looking at electrical components. My go to contact cleaner is De-Oxit - WD-40 is a water-displacing oil and should never be applied to anything electrical. Mechanical, fine... but not on your contacts.

There are two microswitches on the right handlebar and two more by your right foot that control the brake lights and the clutch disconnect.You need to test the brake light switch on each assembly to see which one is triggering your lights. The Clymer manual has directions on testing each. Basically, start with the right handle bar. You'll see two switches with two wires each - spade lug connectors. IIRC, the smaller spade lugs are on the brake switch. Pull those off and see if your brake lights go off - this, by the way, goes MUCH easier with a helper... or a strategically placed mirror. If they DO go off, your trouble is in that switch. I think that one can be adjusted - RTFM to be sure. You can also test the switch with a VOM set to measure continuity (or resistance; set it at the Rx1 range. If you don't get a change in the continuity when testing the switch, that's a bad switch. I think they're less than $10 to replace.

Now, if taking the connections off the handlebar switch didn't do anything, look by your right foot brake - there are two switches there, too, that control the brake lights and the clutch disconnect. And I don't recall which connector is which - Clymer will have it. If you don't have a Clymer book, send me an email at dwarven1 at gmail.com and I'll scan the pages and send them to you. Fast test - pull the connector off and see if your brake lights go out. IF they do, odds are your switches need to be adjusted. You need to loosen the two JIS screws that hold the switch assembly in place and move it up or down so that you hear clicking from the two switches when you move the brake pedal down by .7mm-1.7mm - if you don't hear the clicking, it's a sure sign that the bar controlling the switches is set so that it's not letting the switches open.
Peace to you, but WD-40 freed up my sticking switch troubles. Just speaking from experience, not from an engineering perspective.
 

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I would have to agree with Chopin. I had a problem with the brake light not working with the front brake lever. Took it apart and sprayed it down with WD-40 and it never failed again.
 
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