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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back in 2010 I purchased a 2008 dealer closeout GL1800. I now have +10,000 miles on it and want to ask about the behavior of the brakes. Here's what' going on. On several occasions when applying the rear brake the bike has shaken as if driving over rumble strips. The shaking stops immediately upon activation of the front brake lever. This has happened at speeds as low as 30 mph and high as 65 mph. This bike does not have ABS. Also, when stopping on any uphill grade or coming to a quick full stop the rear brake pedal feels firmly down but then sinks slightly when the bike settles. I have had two dealers check the brakes and neither detect anything wrong. The bike was also checked for the brake recall (secondary cylinder?) but found not to have the problem associated with the recall. I don't feel like the brakes are unsafe but don't feel like they are "right" either. Anyone have any suggestions.
 

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This bike does not have ABS. Also, when stopping on any uphill grade or coming to a quick full stop the rear brake pedal feels firmly down but then sinks slightly when the bike settles.
I have a 2010 Level 3 with 5000 miles; it has ABS. I can't say that this is normal but I too have experienced the same sinking of the rear brake pedal at a stop and I have thought about taking it in to be checked. I have never experienced the shuddering you have experienced.

=LJ=
 

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Back in 2010 I purchased a 2008 dealer closeout GL1800. I now have +10,000 miles on it and want to ask about the behavior of the brakes. Here's what' going on. On several occasions when applying the rear brake the bike has shaken as if driving over rumble strips. The shaking stops immediately upon activation of the front brake lever. This has happened at speeds as low as 30 mph and high as 65 mph. This bike does not have ABS. Also, when stopping on any uphill grade or coming to a quick full stop the rear brake pedal feels firmly down but then sinks slightly when the bike settles. I have had two dealers check the brakes and neither detect anything wrong. The bike was also checked for the brake recall (secondary cylinder?) but found not to have the problem associated with the recall. I don't feel like the brakes are unsafe but don't feel like they are "right" either. Anyone have any suggestions.
Did the dealer ride the Wing & get the same response? if they didn't, they need to. It is still under warranty & I would pitch a fit till it got fixed.

Does it do it without hitting the brakes, just on a decel? If it does it could be the Wing Wobble. Alot of wings have it, including mine. I'm going to re-torque the steering stem bearings to see if it fixes mine.

Mark
 

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I have never felt the shudder but I have noticed the sinking rear brake feeling, my 2001 seems to do it if only using the rear brake. Mine was also checked for the recall and passed but the rear rotor shows considerable more wear than the front which look almost new(32k). When I get off of the bike and touch the rotors the fronts have no heat at all sometimes and the rear cannot be touched. Until I can get it to the dealer 2 hours away I mainly have been using the front brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did the dealer ride the Wing & get the same response? if they didn't, they need to. It is still under warranty & I would pitch a fit till it got fixed.
I assume they did. I left it with the first dealer for several days and the second for a week.

Does it do it without hitting the brakes, just on a decel? If it does it could be the Wing Wobble. Alot of wings have it, including mine. I'm going to re-torque the steering stem bearings to see if it fixes mine.
The shaking only occurs when applying the rear brake only. Again, I have 10,000 miles on the bike and it has only occurred four or five times. I can't duplicate it at will.
 

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1800's have 'linked and combined' brakes. Unless you physically disable the stock system you cannot help but use both front and rear brakes simultaneuosly, although the proportioning does allow for more of one than the other. If you have excessive heat on the rear caliper, then it's very possible that the caliper is warped which would cause the shuddering. It would be more pronounced with application of the foot pedal (two pistons activating over just one on the hand lever) but if the rotor was not true, it would still be there on the lever too. Definitely requires more indepth inspection/diagnosis IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1800's have 'linked and combined' brakes. Unless you physically disable the stock system you cannot help but use both front and rear brakes simultaneuosly, although the proportioning does allow for more of one than the other. If you have excessive heat on the rear caliper, then it's very possible that the caliper is warped which would cause the shuddering. It would be more pronounced with application of the foot pedal (two pistons activating over just one on the hand lever) but if the rotor was not true, it would still be there on the lever too. Definitely requires more indepth inspection/diagnosis IMO.
The linked brakes is part of what makes it odd that the shuddering stops immediately upon activation of the front brake lever. A warped rotor would give more of a pulsing feeling, would occur routinely, would vary with speed. Mine is a whole bike shuddering that feels the same at 30 mph as 65 mph. Again, it has only happened 4 or 5 times in 10,000 miles. When it first happened I thought I had just hit a patch of rough asphalt but this was on a road that I drive every day and there are potholes but no stretches of rough asphalt. The second time it happened is when I determined that a touch for the front brake lever stops it. Based on that is would seem the whatever is causing it is in the brake system itself, not at either wheel. Same with the brake pedal sinking slightly after stopping.
 

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.... the rear rotor shows considerable more wear than the front which look almost new(32k). When I get off of the bike and touch the rotors the fronts have no heat at all sometimes and the rear cannot be touched. .
The extra heat could be because the rear rotor is not out in the wind like the front so it would hold more heat. Also the load on the front rotors is spread out over 2 rotors which again are out in the wind. I have noticed mine is hotter on the rear as well.

The braking could be designed to put more load on the rear as the rear rotor is much more robust then the front, they are vented in the center much like a car rotor. So Honda knew it was going to get hotter.

Not sure about the shuttering. Perhaps the pads are warn out or the mounting hole are warn allowing the pads to move and vibrate.
 

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I had it at the dealer once the service manager looked up all of the work orders, I believe the rear caliper had been replace in 2003 under warrenty. Not sure if the rotor was also changed, I might put one on just for piece of mind.
 

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I finally took mine in and had the complete system serviced and had the rear rotor replaced, a take off from a trike conversion. The tech said the fronts pads where fine but I had them replaced anyway. I has been about 2000 miles and everything seems fine, the rear pedal has more travel when the fronts are not engaged but I think this is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I haven't had the shudder issue occur for a couple of years now. I happened several times between 1000-8000 miles but not since. Two dealer could not find anything wrong. I am confident that it wasn't a rotor issue since the shudder did not vary with speed. It wasn't until after the 12,000 brake fluid change that my rear brakes started feeling like they were working. Actually, it was after I brought it back to the dealer for a rebleed after they did the fluid change. Even then, the brakes didn't feel right so started looking into it myself and found that the dealer had left the fluid level low. A top off to the 'upper' level made a huge improvement.
 

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I have 5 month old (2013) GL 1800 / ABS with 11,000 miles and it continues to, frequently, have that shudder when I depress the rear brake. If I push harder on the brake peddle, or apply the front brake then it goes away. Honda keeps saying this is normal... THAT IS BULL.. I have over 750,000 miles on GoldWings.. starting with the first GL1000, and this is my FIFTH 1800 and this is the ONLY one that has ever done that. My next step will be to contact Honda Customer Service hot line. Interesting to me that this is happening to just a few, certainly not ALL GL 1800 owners.
And you need to tell them about your GW history. I mean, Honda has made a few bucks off of you; you would think there would be some reciprocal action, especially if you always use the same dealer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And you need to tell them about your GW history. I mean, Honda has made a few bucks off of you; you would think there would be some reciprocal action, especially if you always use the same dealer!
I just want to rant about dealers. A 'wing owner shouldn't abhor taking his bike to a dealer for service but I sure do. 16,000 miles, 5 services, 2 dealers, problems with every service.:kaboom:
 

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A lot of the older 1800's did this, especially in higher temperatures. The rear caliper is getting hot and the fluid is probably bubbling. My '04 did it all the time in hot weather. The newer models have a heat shield installed on the muffler to protect the caliper.
Best way to stop it is to use the front brake also.
For some reason, when applying the front brake, one puck on the rear caliper comes on and stops the shudder.
Another reason NOT to use the rear brake by itself, it can cause you to lock up the rear wheel and send the bike sideways.
As far as the soft rear pedal, hang a four pound weight on the brake pedal overnight. That will force any air in the rear lines to migrate to the rear master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I thought my rear brake shuddering was history but it happened again today. Had just come up on stop and go traffic. Shudder occurred on third move forward and applying rear brake while moving at 10-15 mph. Air temp was 87. Riding to that point had been about 25 minutes of routine suburban riding so brakes should not have been any hotter than yesterday or the day before or any number of days over the past year that the shuddering hasn't occurred. The worst thing is that I find myself anticipating the shudder every time I brake. It takes a bit of the pleasure out of the ride.
 

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As I am new here, first of all I would like to say hello to everyone. Writing from distant Poland but having the same problem and asking for help :) I own 2012 GL 1800 airbag model with 20000 miles on it. I have the same problem, pulsating brake pedal. It happens exactly the same way as was mentioned in this thread.
I try to describe what I checked and did as precise as I can.
1. First of all it never happened before I did recall on my bike - replacement of master and secondary master cylinder. Right after the problem occured.
2. When I brake smoothly, it never happens, only when I push the brake pedal vigorously - it doesn't have to be very hard. I hear the little noise and feel the pedal pulsating.
3. When I join the hand brake, the pulsating stopps immediately. When I start braking with hand brake and then push the pedal, it never happens either.
4. I bled the system maybe 20 times, definitely NO air coming out of the bleeders. After reading this thread yesterday I bled additionaly the lower junction block and banjo bolt on secondary master cylinder. Also bled banjo bolt on master cylinder. Did not help :(
5. At the beginning I thought this might have been ABS motors, so I pulled both ABS motor fuses and main ABS fuse out and test rode the bike. Still pulsating, this is not ABS.
6. Because I had a feeling that it may have something to do with calipers or brake discs or even brake pads (mine are new - original Honda pads) - I had similar problem with my car few years ago and the problem was brake discs warpage, I checked brake discs with a dial indicator and on every disc the warpage is about 0,1 mm, when honda shop manual says the service limit is 0,3 mm.
7. The strangest thing is that before I replaced the master cylinders, it NEVER happened. I replaced them when bike had 10000 miles.

So the question is: as some posts seem not to have happy endings, did anyone solve this problem eventually?
I will be very greatful for any answer.
Greetings from Poland
 

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I apologize if this has already been mentioned but the shudder mentioned here is a common topic on some other boards. The solution for it is the "Rocky bleed'. Research the "Rocky Bleed" and if you preform it the problem should go away. There is a bleeder that is not bled in the normal bleeding process and air gets trapped here and causes the rear brake to shudder.
 

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Thank you all very much for helping me. I bled the junction box before in a traditional way and it did not help. Today I did it again but little differently and the problem is gone :)
 
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