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Discussion Starter #1
some people have tried to bleed the brakes on their 1800 Wings and have soft pedals after they are done. There is a set sequence in the way they have to be done, make sure you do it that way or it's useless. Here it is

Front Brake Reservoir

1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm

2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve 10mm

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome)

1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm

2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 10mm

3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 8mm

4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top 10mm

5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 10mm
 

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Joe, you're amazing! I'm sure that will help out a lot of home wrenches with brake woes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I hope it will save someone some headaches in the future
 

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Joe, you're amazing! I'm sure that will help out a lot of home wrenches with brake woes.
I wish the Honda dealership would get this right!! After the Secondary Recall on my 1800 and three trips for the soft pedal issue, and even sending them directions from the "Rocky Bleed" procedures on another forum, they still can't get it right!!!! Last time at that dealership... There response: "We done over 200...." Well, did that leave 200+ soft peddle issues?? Thanks Joe in California, I will get my bike, specify the directions, and take it to someone who's had success.
 

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I wish the Honda dealership would get this right!! After the Secondary Recall on my 1800 and three trips for the soft pedal issue, and even sending them directions from the "Rocky Bleed" procedures on another forum, they still can't get it right!!!! Last time at that dealership... There response: "We done over 200...." Well, did that leave 200+ soft peddle issues?? Thanks Joe in California, I will get my bike, specify the directions, and take it to someone who's had success.
I think what is happening with the recall is that Honda's flat rate time they pay the dealership to do the recall is not really enough time so the mechanic may rush, or skip steps to get it done within the time. I did mine myself and did not have this issue but I wasn't trying to do it fast.
 

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I think what is happening with the recall is that Honda's flat rate time they pay the dealership to do the recall is not really enough time so the mechanic may rush, or skip steps to get it done within the time. I did mine myself and did not have this issue but I wasn't trying to do it fast.
Very true Tuppy, what all OEMs pay out on warranty claims is usually far less than half of what it actually takes to do it right. Dealerships typically lose money on warranty claims, that's why so many dealerships (especially auto dealers) try and avoid warranty repairs. I know a GM warranty writer that was in the good graces of his dealer principal (at the expense of customer loyalty) for keeping his warranty claims well below the district average. Very sad.

When you say "you did it yourself" do you mean the brake recall? How did you get Honda to release the parts to you?
 

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I think what is happening with the recall is that Honda's flat rate time they pay the dealership to do the recall is not really enough time...
Does the manufacturer specify both time and rate for a repair? If they specify that the rate they will pay is only $75 per hour, but the shop is charging $150 per hour then the shop loses...
 

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Does the manufacturer specify both time and rate for a repair? If they specify that the rate they will pay is only $75 per hour, but the shop is charging $150 per hour then the shop loses...
I know they specify the time, I'm not sure how the rate is set, But the time is almost always not sufficient.
 

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Every OEM is a bit different, but all give a flat rate on time allotted, and it is pretty much always well below what the job actually takes. Some OEMs (not to mention any names) will also set a ceiling on the per hour fee allowed. Those that do actually pay the going shop rates will usually lower allotted the time accordingly. It's not a winning situation. The only thing they are actually totally fair on is they have to pay/reimburse the shop for the parts at wholesale just like the dealerships do on a daily basis.
 

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1995 Anniversary Edition Goldwing

Hi, I am a first time Goldwing owner, I just purchased a 1995 Goldwing with really low miles but has sat for 10 years in a garage without being run.

I replaced the tires and got the engine running, however the rear brakes are not working. Front brakes work fine, rear brake pedal just goes to the floor soft.

I have searched around on the forums and it seems there is a problem with some kind of balance valve in the main brake cylinder.

I was planning to replace all the brake fluid and bleed out the lines. Will the bleeding sequence you mentioned also work on the 1995 era bikes? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Wayne
 

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There are a bunch of 1500 owners that do their own maintenance, hopefully some of them can clarify. No issues with the systems that I know of.
 

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Wayne,

I am currently having the same issue with my 88 model 1500. I have rebuilt the rear brake caliper, to no avail. I am waiting on some responses to determine if I need to rebuild the master cylinder or not.

Bleeding on the 1500 is pretty simple. You can use a vacuum bleeder if you have one, if not, just put a hose on the bleeder valve, and the other end into a container of DOT4 brake fluid. Remove the reservoir cap. Crack the bleeder valve open, and pump the pedal until you see clean fluid going thru. Make sure to keep the reservoir full. Then close the bleeder valve and top off the reservoir, and see if that fixes it.

If not, I have read several places, that you can weigh down the pedal with something heavy, for 24-48 hours, and that is supposed to work.

As far as a sequence, everything I have read says to bleed the left front caliper first, then the rear one. They both work off of the same MC & reservoir.

Hope this helps
 

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Hello everyone!

Having similar brake issues. No pedal. Tried bleeding, and the down pedal trick, to no avail. Decided to rebuild the rear caliper.

After rebuilding the rear caliper, and both vacuum bleeding AND manual bleeding (hose in the fluid and pump brake pedal), I still have no pedal.

Is my next step to rebuild the rear master cylinder? If so, how easy is doing that, including removal and replacement?

Looking for ideas. Thanks.
 
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