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Discussion Starter #1
In order to remove the Bank Angle Sensor one post says that you need to connect the red/white and White wires. While another post says you need to connect each wire separately through a 150 ohm resistor. Does any one know which post is correct? 2013 GW 1800b
 

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Looks like the red/white wire is providing the ground for the FI/ign relay thru the bank angle sensor. With out that relay being energized the engine wont start.
 

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To lean farther in the turns ?

Sent from my E6830 using Tapatalk
That would not make sense as centrifugal force will keep the Bank angle sensor in the mid position no matter what speed. However the reason I was asking was in regard to trikes which don't lean so the BAS would be affected and could possibly trigger.
 

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That would not make sense as centrifugal force will keep the Bank angle sensor in the mid position no matter what speed. However the reason I was asking was in regard to trikes which don't lean so the BAS would be affected and could possibly trigger.
Perhaps ! Maybe the TARD ( Trike Angle Resistance Determinant ) is interfereing with the BAS. Ergo, get rid of the BASTARD.

Sent from my E6830 using Tapatalk
 

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Would like to know what the concern is and on what year Wing. And if it is triked or not.
 

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He is trying to use the engine for a non-bike application.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Yes. I am using the engine in an experimental vehicle where it would be very dangerous for the engine to stop with bouncing or turbulence or sudden change in direction.
And, I am still trying to figure out why I am not getting spark.
 

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I'm just putting this out as to what might keep it from running .

Side stand switch, clutch switch, gear indicator switch, kill switch, angle sensor, RVS switch . All of those have to be set right or the engine wont start.

What have I left out guys ?

Also do you hear the fuel pump turn on ? if so is the fuel pressure high enough ? Does the starter engage and crank the engine ?
Are you getting spark ?
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Well, a wannabe airplane. It is still in proof of consent stage. I.e. we don't even know if our experiment will work. So to test it we are building a WIG. Wing in Groundeffect. Think flying boat. If it works then we can start building an experimental version for the FAA.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, that is part of the challenge. We have bipassed the side stand switch, bank angle switch. I have been going through the Manuel testing all the sensors as best I can. Unfortunately I don't have a combination meter so I can't get feedback from the DTS. I talked to the dealer and they won't even check it for me if I bring the engine to them. And the manual doesn't say what the ECM is expecting to see. Power? Ground? Signal? So it is hard to know if you are bipassing it properly, or if maybe the sensor is providing some subtle info that the ECM will miss.

Yes I hear the fuel pump. The starter engages and turns over well. As far as I can tell the gear sensor is working. I don't have the clutch working at the moment so I bipassed that switch temporarily. (The points close when you squeeze the clutch.). So it should think the clutch is open.
My main problem at the moment is not getting spark. The coils are getting power and ground OK. I have a multimeter with a Max/minimum feature. I am getting some variation in the signal voltage, but only in the 64-86 mv range. No where near the 2.5-5v in the manual, but then I am not sure my meter is really compatible. So it is hard to know if the ECM is putting out signal or not.

Still looking for an expert that can help. But haven't found one yet.
 

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RVS is the reverse switch.And has to be in the off position. I am also making an assumption that you are using as much of the engine and ECU wiring harness as you can at this time. Your multimeter is probably fine. Any cheap one will do. I have 3 Labscopes that are also multimeters but I break out the Harbor freight 1.99 multimeter for a lot things as it sets up quickly. Is the cruise/reverse module been bypassed or just eliminated. That communicates to the ECU. I think it give it a RPM signal.

And if I am reading this correctly you are at a point where the ignition switch will crank the engine but not start. So that eliminates the kill switch and the side stand switch. And the gear postion switch. Gauge cluster should read neutral.
Is the ECU getting power? And a good ground on the engine near the throttle bodies? As a drop test I, personally use a heavy duty light like a headlight bulb to check a ground connection or a voltage drop test. No digital test lights, as they can see the ground or + positive, but can not tell you if the ground or + positive has any amperage capability.

But if you have access to a labscope look at the crank sensor wave form and the camshaft sensor wave forms.
This picture is a generic 4 cylinder engine. The top wave form is the camshaft and the bottom one is the Crankshaft. The Crankshaft sensor (or Honda Goldwing speak Ignition Pulse Generator) tells the ECU to ground the coils which causes them to fire. The camshaft sensors (one on each bank) tells the ECU to ground the injectors which causes them to pulse fuel. Do not worry about injectors until after you have spark.

Since you probably do not have the shelter over the engine. Unplug the IPG and plug it back in. May be slightly corroded or even softset.
I seem to remember reading on here about the gauge cluster from you, possibly. If the check engine light is flashing while you are cranking we need the codes to help you figure out where to go from here.
 

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Connect a led to battery positive and ground to the white/blue wire at 33pin connector A11. That should flash codes for you. This is assuming you have only 2 connectors on the ECU.
 
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