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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i just watched the crappion video,and they said the best thing you can do,aside from adding a fork brace is bypassing the anti dive.it looks like it would be good for emergency brakeing (the suspension would soak up some of the force and help stop front wheel lock up.has anyone tried this and what do you think? BOB
 

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If you take the anti-matter out of the dilethium crystals I'm afraid the warp drive will malfunction and you will have to eject the core captain.... Oh wait, that star treck.. Never mind I just had a senior moment.
 
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My forks where modified by Crappion and the anti-dive was disabled, I cannot say that I miss the anti dive at all as the crappion setup does not collapse the suspension under breaking like the standard suspension. Several people claim the anti-dive just blows fork seals, I would probably keep it if I was running stock suspension but have to agree with Crappion that once the suspension is setup correctly and working, you do not require the anti-dive.. I remeber in the 90's it was a fad that bikes went through and it died like many other fads!!

Gary
 

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Actually you don't want to remove it, just disable it. There is guy on e-bay that is selling a kit to do it. Or you can do it yourself with a nickle. Drill a hole in a nickle just big enough for the plunger on the anti dive valve to go through and put the nickle between the two pieces of the anti dive valve and put it back together, The extra distance that the nickle creates is enough that the valve won't work.
 

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I suppose I could read it for myself somewhere but, what is anti-dive. I know I have it, just don't know why. Enlighten me please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
when you apply your front brakes the anti dive prevents the front forks from compressing.try sitting on your bike,hold the front brake & push down on the bars.it will barely move.bypassing allows your forks to move normally,also will prevent blowing out your fork seal.here is where you can get the spacer,simple to install! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GL180...Q5fAccessories
 

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Does having anti-dive mean I WILL blow a fork seal just because I have it, or could it happen during an emergency braking situation ? I like the concept of lessening the abrupt stop. Was this your reason for doing it? Unless I concentrate well, it often happens that when I stop I feel the Utopia backrest slap me in the a$$. When I ride two up I'm sure I'll be slapped with more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the way it stopped abrupt was my main reason,especially when riding 2 up or with the bars turned,not blowing out the seals was just an added benefit ! try it out,if for some reason u don't like it just take the spacer out,no harm done!
 

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I did the nickel thing and I have no doubts that my anti dive was stuck and staying engaged all of the time. The improvement is like night and day. I am a little worried about hitting something and blowing a seal as the stock springs are supposed to be on the weak side to begin with. One trick some have done instead of the nickel or ebay thing is to screw out the bleeder valve on the antidive one turn only and cut a washer in half (they say an old crush washer works well) and insert it and retighten. The difference is apparantly not as much but the anti dive will still engage some and prevent a seal from blowing.

One thing that bothers me about the whole anti dive is that it being on one fork only (left) looks like it would be warping or binding the whole front when it is engaged.
 

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if you take the anti-matter out of the dilethium crystals i'm afraid the warp drive will malfunction and you will have to eject the core captain.... Oh wait, that star treck.. Never mind i just had a senior moment.

LMOBO


(Laughing my old butt off!)
 
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I have no idea about anti dive either. A quick check says it is also on 1500's. I thought it was an option on submarines not Goldwings.....:)
Strat
 

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I'm in also. I PM'ed Joe in calif to send me the info on the " nickle " trick. I'm not adverse to the product on E-bay, I'm just not set up for buying on E-bay. If any one wants to order two of them I would be glad to pay for the item and handling to my place.
 

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Yeah, I agree. does not make sense. But I don't want any more seal problems with this bike. They were going to charge me $368 to replace both seals. If I can prevent it by doing this anti-dive thing, that would most likely be beneficial for me.
I believe that the function of the anti-dive was actually to prevent the seals from blowing on fork springs that are in reality too weak and soft and prone to dive too much if you hit too hard or brake too hard. The reason people disable the anti dive is to make the ride less harsh. The improvement was 100% on mine. But I am worried about the seals so I may go ahead and put some progressive springs in. BTW if you do it just drill a hole about 7/32" (I think 1/4" would be ok) in the middle of a nickel. Take the 2 halves of the anti dive apart and drop the nickel in the bottom half. It wouldn't hurt to have a "O" ring or gasket to put between the 2 halves also to keep crossion out before you bolt the 2 halves back together.
 

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In case it was not clear the anti dive is located on the front of the left fork near the bottom (on 1800) and is covered by the front mudguard. To disable the anti-dive, you remove the front mudguard (front section, 4 screws) and that will expose the anti-dive unit (you will recognise it as it will have a hydralic line coming from the brake caliper round to the top of the ant-dive unit). The anti-dive unit is in two halfs and is held together by two allen bolts. If you remove the 2 bolts you can split the anti-dive unit. You will see a pin in the middle of the top part that moves out when the brakes are applied. The pin moving out pushes on a plunger in the lower anti dive unit (the part attatched to the fork leg) and the plunger going down blocks/restricts oil flow inside the fork, there by reducing the rate of compression of the left fork leg (under braking). To disable the anti dive unit, you need to space the upper half of the anti dive unit up high enough that the pin no longer pushes on the plunger. That can be done using a washer (or nickel with a hole drilled in the middle) or the aluminium spacer from eBay. You fit the spacer, put the top of the anti-dive unit back on the fork (I suggest using new slightly longer allen bolts as once the anti-dive unit is spaced out, the original bolts look a bit short), then reinstall the front mudguard and you are done. It's a 15 minute job.

Gary
 
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