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85 LTD. It all started when I took the scoot for a long ride with some chapters of SCRC. Stopped and started just fine all day but on the way back, stopped off at a car dealer close to home to show a bud the scoot. Went out, turned the key, displays went blank and would not start.
Checked the 30 amp fuse that was in place to bypass the sacrificial metal strip and also another fuse(plug in) which was 30 amp also. The auto type fuse had a bit of cloudiness on one end but later proved to have continuity. Whwn I put it back in, I turned the key and had flashing displays for about 3 seconds, then nothing. One of the guys brought out a booster box and it started right up.
Before I took the battery out to replace it, when the key is on, all I see are the neutral light and oil light that when I push the start button, the get brighter. That is the only things I see, no other lights, no other sounds, not even lights. Hmmmmm…..
So…..I bought another battery that is charging at the moment. I was thinking since the bike started up with the booster box, the battery just didn’t have enough amps left or maybe the alternator wasn’t kickin’ back enough juice on the ride and I was using up the batteries power? I don’t know, I never checked the post when the bike was running. When the engine is running, I should be able to take the multimeter and read from the posts on the battery to check incoming voltage, yes?
When riding, the volts were consistent at around 14.2 I did notice on the last start when I filled up that the radio lost its memory and the trip meter would not reset.
I would be happy to post pics of my mess of wires by the battery. I did find out from a CD that the black box behind the starter relay is the brake and tail light connectors. I also thought the round silver bit with a bunch of wires plugged in and the pos and neg post was the solenoid but it looks to be the starter relay. Right? There is a plug in 30 amp fuse that does something there but it is ok.
I went to take the seat off but the allen bolt on the left side to the adjustment latch is stripped out in the middle so I will have to be ingenious if I want to remove it. Tried to cut a notch and loosen that way but no go as of yet.
I am not sure if it is of mention but I thought I heard a POP around mid trip. Thought maybe I ran over something or blew a tire. The performance was not effected and I didn’t notice anything but after that is when I did start to notice the radio was losing memory on start up. The engine did start fine though.
I have seen some great schematics on the CD but I have not messed with any other wiring and I am not that electrical savy.
Anyway, that is about where I am at now until the battery charges up (had to add the acid). Got it on a 1.5 trickle charger.
Everybody on the forum have been awesome and I have been able to put in my 2 cents also on other things. Great group of folks. Neoracer has been especially helpful as well. I hope I can actually meet some of the folks here sometime. I also will join GWRRA when I get paid the end of the month. #28002, my original number given back to me. Awesome!
 

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Have you got a shop manual? That's step 1 for trouble shoots in my estimation. If you can find a wrench with GW (1200) experience to quiz, even better. Lots of members have 1200's running today (mine's long in the past) so they have some wisdom to share (c'mon guys!). Just one quick question, was the battery fine when you started out? If it was and went down during your ride, I'd immediately suspect the stator. Just a thought.
 

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change out the old fuses anyway
 

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IMHO, If you are getting 14.1 volts when on the move, you are getting plenty of charge to charge the battery. I think you have a open circuit somewhere that is draining the battery with the key off. You need to establish if the battery is charged when you stop and if you are getting 14.1 volts on the move, it will be charged. Test the battery is showing 12 volts and disconnect the earth/ground and it will stop the battery draining. When you come back to start the bike reconnect the battery. If the bike starts up, you have established that there is a open circuit. Or carry a circuit tester with you and take off the earth/ground and put the tester on the battery earth to the earth cable and if it lights up, there is a open circuit. To find where the open circuit is: turn the key off, and pull one fuse at a time and with a circuit tester bridge the two post. If the circuit tester lights up, that's where you start looking. Use the same method with what is on that circuit. When the circuit tester that is on the fuse goes out that is where the open circuit is. I am not very good with this type of thing and this how I try to locate a open circuit. Hope this helps. Eric
 

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After the new battery is charged and in the bike and it starts right up. check the volts and see if it is charging,the pop you thought you heard might of been the stator going ( shorting out). If it is charging good it might be a open circuit.. Have fun finding that.... By the way I have a 84 aspencade that I just put a stator in. And now it wont turn over at all. But I will get it going..
 

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IMHO, If you are getting 14.1 volts when on the move, you are getting plenty of charge to charge the battery. I think you have a open circuit somewhere that is draining the battery with the key off. You need to establish if the battery is charged when you stop and if you are getting 14.1 volts on the move, it will be charged. Test the battery is showing 12 volts and disconnect the earth/ground and it will stop the battery draining. When you come back to start the bike reconnect the battery. If the bike starts up, you have established that there is a open circuit. Or carry a circuit tester with you and take off the earth/ground and put the tester on the battery earth to the earth cable and if it lights up, there is a open circuit. To find where the open circuit is: turn the key off, and pull one fuse at a time and with a circuit tester bridge the two post. If the circuit tester lights up, that's where you start looking. Use the same method with what is on that circuit. When the circuit tester that is on the fuse goes out that is where the open circuit is. I am not very good with this type of thing and this how I try to locate a open circuit. Hope this helps. Eric
Eric:
I'm a little confused. You say "open" circuit. Do you mean "short" circuit. An open would be like pulling a fuse and a short would be like a circuit shorting to ground and causing the battery to drain even though the circuit is supposedly off.:confused:
Isaac
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Eric had a unique way to find an open circuit, eh? Maybe I will try that........... Later last night the seat came off, no suprises there except for having to use an 8 mm allen on the latch side bolt (stripped a bit). Came out easy enough. I even cut a little more from the inside adjustment space to have the seat back more.
Anyway, the dry cell charged up and put in. VROOM! Started right up. Read 14.5 at 3,000 at the terminals, around 13 at idle. I still don't like the starter relay look, I couldn't get the plastic case of that the four wires were plugged into. red/yellow, red, etc. The infamous 3 yellow wires on the left side of the battery were separately taped with no connector in sight which leads me to beleive there have been situations before. I didn't take off any fairinf bits but I know I will have to do sometime or another to check the air pump and whatnots. I am a bit skittish to mess with the LTD moldings as they are hard to get but yes, it is neccessary to do so at times.
I let the bike run for about half hour, voltage remauned the same. Shut down for about ten minutes, started right up, radio memory held, ran for about half hour and did it again. I did, however, before that, take the left storage compartment off to remove the CB as I couldn't transmit and I wanted to "look" around inside. I managed to get it stuck on Ch 9 after I put it back in and then I couldn't even see a TX when I pushed the talk button. Ah, no worries, took it out and will send it to the doc in Ohio. It will be worth the hundred bucks.
I even found a key down in all the wiring marvels where the plugs are for the CB inside (lloked like a house key), and I found a small black pouch with a spare 7.5 amp fuse of which there was one there plugged in that I saw to something I don't know where. I will start tomorrow morning.
The theory that something may have drained my battery doesn't seem right as I was riding most of that fateful day and stopped and started several times throughout. At the last successful start, I did lose the radio memory and had to turn off/on, reset and adjust. I am hoping that I was running solely on battery power and that the battery was just not taking the 14.1 that I always saw on the meter on the dash during the day. maybe?
If the "POP" I heard might have been the starter shorting, what might I expect? It did start right up after the new battery was put in but I am still thinking a gremlin is in there waiting to leave me high and dry after a nice ride thinking what I see on the dash as a consistent 14.1 is happily charging my battery and it will have a good charge. Hmmm...
 

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Eric:
I'm a little confused. You say "open" circuit. Do you mean "short" circuit. An open would be like pulling a fuse and a short would be like a circuit shorting to ground and causing the battery to drain even though the circuit is supposedly off.:confused:
Isaac
My terminology may have been wrong because I'm not real good with electricky. So this is taken from the "Energy Dictionary"

A circuit is considered to be closed when electricity flows from an energy sourse to the desired endpoint of the circuit. The open status of the circuit doesn't depend on how it become unclosed, so circuits which are manually disconected and circuits which have blown fuses, faulty wiring or missing components are all considered open circuits.

I go along with your meaning of "Short Circuit" Eric
 
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