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Hi guys, new to the forum and I'm hoping for a litttle help with my ride. I've owned it for a about six months and love the scoot, by a problem developed last fall. driving down the highway the engine just quit. I dragged it home and let it sit all winter, yesterday bought a battery and after a little coaxing, she started and ran for only 2 minutes, then died again. Seems to be ignition related, because when she starts I will see the tach register RPM's, but when she doesn't, the tach reads 0. I understand there are three major components to ignition, the pulser, ignition module, and coils. Can anyone help me locate the pulser connector and give me an idea of what voltage to check for on crank? What about the ignition module location and any pinout checks I can make there? I am not really thinking about the coils, because my experience in automotive leads me to believe that ignition coils normally fail hard, and I am getting a no start condition as opposed to sputtering on 2 cylinders. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Just a footnote, I remember riding thru a pretty hard downpour before this happened. I wonder if this could be a connector or terminal issue? Anyway thanks for reading my post and please let me know what you think or have experienced!
Jeff
 

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hi caddy., before going to far have you taken apart an cleaned the contacts on the kill switch? a pencil eraser works good. all your ignition voltage starts there. power goes from the battery to fuse to ign switch to ecm. the ecm routes juice to pulse coils an ign coils. check it out an let us all know. frank
 

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Hi Frank, Thanks for your idea. I have already tested the ignition fuse with a test light to ground when this condition is present. I do have voltage there. The bike will start and run for about 90 seconds, then die and not produce a tach reading until I let it sit for a few hours. Again, thanks for your input! Jeff
 

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I would suspect the condensor that goes across the points, rather than the points themselves. It is quite common for the capacitor/condensor to fail with age and this will cause the ignition to stop. Usually these things work for a short while, get warm and then fail. If you let it cool down they start to work again for a short while. I don't know if you can buy the condensors by themselves, but as you are in there I would replace the points and condensors just for the peace of mind.

Gary
 

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caddyshack is your 85 a LTD? If so check the plugs to the trip computer. If not making good connection it will not start.
 

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I would suspect the condensor that goes across the points, rather than the points themselves. It is quite common for the capacitor/condensor to fail with age and this will cause the ignition to stop. Usually these things work for a short while, get warm and then fail. If you let it cool down they start to work again for a short while. I don't know if you can buy the condensors by themselves, but as you are in there I would replace the points and condensors just for the peace of mind.

Gary
no points or condensers all 1200 wings have electronic ignition
 

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"no points or condensers all 1200 wings have electronic ignition"

Oh well, shows how little I know.. :)
Good luck finding the problem.

Gary
 

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Have you considered that it might be the ignition switch? I'm having a problem with my '84 that I'm pretty sure is the switch... Waiting for a contact base from the local dealer.
 

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There is a recall on 1984 GL1200 ignition switches. The recall is still active today because it is a safety related item. Your dealer should replace the ignition switch at no charge to you.
 

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There is a recall on 1984 GL1200 ignition switches. The recall is still active today because it is a safety related item. Your dealer should replace the ignition switch at no charge to you.
Unfortunately, the recall does not cover ALL 1984 GL1200s. Mine falls outside of the covered VIN numbers... :mad:
 

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That's too bad. Here's the recall info:

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 84V067000


Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Manufacturer: AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.
Mfg. Campaign #: GL1200#5
Year: 1984
Make: HONDA MOTORCYCLE
Model: GL1200
Potential Number of Units Affected: 28750
Manufactured From: MAY 1983 To: MAY 1984
Year of Recall: '84
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:

SWITCH COVER WHICH PROVIDES FOR A GOOD WIRE CONNECTION COULD BECOME LOOSE AND POSSIBLY CAUSE LOSS OF ALL ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONS.

THE IGNITION SWITCH WIRING HARNESS WILL BE REPLACED ALONG WITH THE SWITCH COVER. THE COVER IS INSTALLED TO ENSURE PROPER WIRE CONNECTION.

VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: MOTORCYCLES.

SYSTEM: ELECTRICAL; IGNITION SWITCH WIRING HARNESS.


CONSEQUENCES OF DEFECT: ENGINE COULD SHUT OFF WHILE VEHICLE IS IN OPERATION,POSSIBLY RESULTING IN AN ACCIDENT.
 

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My original problem was that I would occassionaly have to jiggle the ignition key to get the power to come on, and at times the tail light would go out. The tail light could be made to come back on by jiggling the key.
I replaced the contact base on the ignition switch and that fixed the intermittent problem I was having - don't have to jiggle the key any more - BUT... Now I'm having the engine cut out periodically while cruising down the road. I don't seem to be losing power (at least not for long), as I have been able to pull over and re-start the engine. It also seems to happen in high humidity/wet conditions.
Any ideas out there?
 

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My original problem was that I would occassionaly have to jiggle the ignition key to get the power to come on, and at times the tail light would go out. The tail light could be made to come back on by jiggling the key.
I replaced the contact base on the ignition switch and that fixed the intermittent problem I was having - don't have to jiggle the key any more - BUT... Now I'm having the engine cut out periodically while cruising down the road. I don't seem to be losing power (at least not for long), as I have been able to pull over and re-start the engine. It also seems to happen in high humidity/wet conditions.
Any ideas out there?
So last night I checked the main fuse (like new) and went through everything I could reach without taking the false tank and fairing apart. All connectors seemed solid, wires looked OK, fuses OK. Sprayed a couple of connectors with cleaner and put some dielectric grease in them. Put it all back together and took it for a 20 mile ride - no problems. And as a bonus, my clock works again.
Intermittent problems like this give me heartburn - don't know if I fixed something, or if next time I'm 200 miles from home it'll die on me.
:eek:
 

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I had a similar problem. I would start the bike and drive about 4 miles and it would die. Let it set for 5 minutes and it would crank and not stop again until itm was allowed to cool down, start it up and drive and it would stop. Since I drive my bike about everyday to work it would stop within 100 feet of the same spot every day, the same coming home. I even drove it a 110 miles one day after restarting and no problem. I could start it and leave it idle in the yard and it would die. I tied different coils, wirs CDI and no help. I put a different set of ignitors (crank trigger units) and that corrected the problem. For info the ignitor connectors that connect it to the wiring harness are located just ahead of the voltage regulator inside of the dummy tank. The ignitors are inside of the timing belt covers.
 

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Old Gray
You said you replaced the igniters (crank trigger units). Are you referring to the pulse generators or is this something different? I am having the same problem.
 

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Old Gray
You said you replaced the igniters (crank trigger units). Are you referring to the pulse generators or is this something different? I am having the same problem.
Yes it is, there is 2 of them and they are located in the time belt covers. Rerouting the wiring is the worst part once you have the radiator out.
 

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Yes it is, there is 2 of them and they are located in the time belt covers. Rerouting the wiring is the worst part once you have the radiator out.
 
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