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Ok, I have searched through the forum and not found any post directly related to my issue. I need a lot of help here as this is the first carbureted vehicle I have owned.

The bike starts and immediately begins to idle around 3700rpm. It ends up settling around 3800rpm even with the choke off. When I shut the bike off after warming up, there is a loud backfire.

While in gear, the bike seems to run ok and the engine will spin at seemingly normal speed (cruising at 35mph in second gear around 300rpm or so). But, the bike slightly accelerates on its own without opening the throttle and will hold speed for the most part unless the brakes are pressed.

When I grip the clutch to come to a stop, the idle jumps back up to around 4000rpm and the bike continues to heat up.

I pulled all four plugs (which are basically brand new) and they are white except for the right rear plug which appears to have a small amount of oil on it.

Can anyone help with this? I am not entirely sure of the history as I just bought the bike last week with the intent to fix it up. I appreciate any feedback.

Aaron
 

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I'm probally going hash this up. But if you look at the carbs from the RHS of the bike, you will see the throttle stop. Try backing that out and the RPMS should drop. It should idle nicely at about 1000 RPMS. Eric
 

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As Eric says, to lower the idle rpms you back out the idle adjustment screw (throttle stop) from the right hand side. It's right between the carb bodies. If you want to fix it up, it's worth buying the right Clymer manual for it.

I would also clean the linkages a couple of times while cool with Gumout or similar carb solvent; make sure none are sticking. If you haven't already, put a stiff dose (1 oz. per gallon gas) of Seafoam in your fuel tank and add fresh gas. Repeat in the next tank, too. That'll clean out the insides.

Then let us know how it's going. Carburator tuning and synchronizing may be in your near term future.
 

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Hope your manual shows up today; you're gonna like it! I bought mine from Ms. Trike Lady of this Forum and it really is one of the best manuals I've seen in the 15-20 I've owned.

If the idle adjustment works to drop the rpm and no problems show up, then you can get into the next level of stuff. One thing with carburators: You want a near-perfectly sealed intake system and a clean air filter. I run air filters to about 2/3 of their rated life; the old dude has to BREATHE.

You'll find different ideas here about how to check for intake air leaks, and all valid. I use a can of Gumout with a nozzle, shooting a little around various places in the intake system while the engine is warming up with choke off, one connection at a time, until the engine starts getting too warm. If with any squirt the engine revs I know that there is a leak there.

The carburator settings were designed, manufactured and set based on a certain volume of air moving through the carb. Air leaks increase the volume of air and mess up any adjustments you'll want to do to the pilot screw, in particular. As part of sealing your intake, I recommend replacing the large O-rings in the bottom of the metal intake elbows. When you check the thickness of your current ones versus new ones you'll be glad you did it, and it only cost $15 when I did it a couple of months ago. By the way, have you replaced your timing belts yet, or at least checked them?
 

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Before you start making adjustments to your wing give the bike a good check out as you just bought it. Check the compression, check for vac leaks,lube or replace the throttle cables, if the PO adjusted the idle screw it is probably to make up for a clogged idle circuit in the carbs.you will more than likely have to rebuild the carbs. I wouldn't reccomend additives unless you are able to get the bike to idle somewhat normal. Riding a motorcycle with no control of the throttle is very dangerous and crazy on a bike you just bought.
Good luck and enjoy your project.
 

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I used Bardahl Injectorclean on my 1200 every fourth tank or so. The 1200's carb slides were notorious for sticking.
 

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Guess you have a hinky fuel pump, Bud. You can test its output easily enough, but if it is making a loud noise it's probably had it.

At least you were able to drop the idle to where it's supposed to be so you could pick up the other symptoms, and also not sieze the bike!

The additives will at least get your carbs clean inside, or cleaner anyway. I agree with knelson that a rebuild is a good idea, but it's riding season! See what improvements or new symptoms emerge as the Seafoam does its job. Please keep us posted, and also what the pro says.

At least you're starting at a better place than I did with Tatanka. When I got him, the carbs were completely frozen up with Goo/shellac. Couldn't even turn the throttle or move the choke lever!:eek: Runs like a top now. You'll get there, Brother!
 

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I reckon so, if it's the source of a loud noise. That ain't good!:eek:
 

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When I started to work on my '85 1200, I put a fairly cheap in-line fuel filter in place of the old Honda one, which was shot. This was to catch stuff coming out of the tank as a result of work on the bike, Seafoam, whatever. It's a long shot, but I guess it's possible that your fuel filter is so plugged that it's starving the fuel pump itself.
 

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Well, that will help us figure out what else is going on.

If the engine still runs rough at idle but decently at higher rpm like after you adjusted the idle screw, it's probably not just a bad fuel pump. It may be dirty pilot or slow (idle) jets in the carb, including the seats and passageways, which means other stuff inside there is dirty. That's what the Seafoam/whatever is for, to clean the Goo/shellac out. The apertures of jets and passageways are so small that it doesn't require much Goo to make a big difference.:eek:
 

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Just a thought. If the noise is coming from the back of the engine, it could be the clutch basket. The noise would be louder at idle and go away at rpms. Eric
 

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"Clunks" are never normal, nor are they cheap. Clunk? Seriously? :eek:
 

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You are referring to the clunking? Interesting. It does feel like it is coming from right next to my feet as I am riding (with my feet on the normal operator footpegs).

Could this be a problem with the clutch or is this normal? I do not have any problem shifting, nor does the clutch feel like it is slipping at all.
The clutch is on the RHS at the rear, under where that photo in about the second post you made. With the bike out of gear on the centre stand, start the bike and get it to idle. Place a big screwdriver on the motor and see where it is the loudest. If the noise goes away at about 1500-2000 rpm, I think the clutch carrier. Engine has to come out and the clutch has a slotted nut. You will have to make a tool to get the nut out.
Eric
 

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That's good info, my 1200 clutch is slipping. I was hoping I didn't have to pull the motor, looks like a rainy season tear down. and special tool huh.
 

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The oil on the spark plug could be from a number of things but I reccomend a compression test. The test may reveal an internal problem that may be resolved without a complete overhaul. If the plug is fouling due to the oil you can buy a plug that will fire soaked in oil. I forget the name of these plugs but back in the day when v8 cars were in every driveway these plugs were commonly used to get a little more life out of a spent engine.
 

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I looked it up an Adore spark plug is what you will need if that plug is fouling and you don't want to fix the cause.
 

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Sorry Typo :eek: mybad thanks Trikelady
 

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The Hoon (Eric) is Wise in all things GL1200.:p

The symptoms you describe do sound like a funky clutch basket/throwout. I'd head back to the dealer who worked on it and ask WTF! The mechanic who worked on it didn't notice the sound you're describing, even when it might mean more work/$$ for him and the shop? What exactly do they claim to have done to it? The other symptoms you describe point first at the carburators IMHO. Did they rebuild them?
 
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