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Discussion Starter #1
Won't crank. Took the negative lead off the battery and hooked up a voltmeter negative cable to negative terminal reads 12 Volts. To me that indicates a short. Serviced battery and reconnected the negative cable started right up! Two days later the same sceneriao, it won't crank.

Today I took out one fuse at a time and checked the voltage reading negative cable to negative terminal remained a constant 12 volts ????

Where do I begin to iosolate my short?


Thanks,
Dave H...
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what is your voltage reading when the bike is running
 

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Discussion Starter #4
William,

I do no know but I will find out today.

Trike Lady,

The starter turns over it just does not have enough power to do so to cause ignition and then it just dies all together so I doubt it is the switch. But, then again, what do I know???


Dave H...
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With all the fuses out, you still showed the 12 volts? Both the radio and the clock require a constant 12 volts.
 

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I'm probably off the mark, but just given the model and my recent experience, could the stator have a poor connection?

While recently checking the three stator wires on my 1200, I found that they had been spliced twice over the years:eek:. I barely touched one wire in the upper splice and it popped right off. Apparently the tape was all that was holding them together. After completing the ugliest job of soldering and shrinktubing you can imagine, all is tight and sealed now. Like timing belts, just one of those things I don't want to wonder about while in the middle of nowhere.
 

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If you have pulled every fuse on the bike including the radio/clock fuse, there should be nothing present at the negative post. If voltage is still present, disconnect the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was not able to do any electrical work today on the bike. The cars demanded my time and I had not turned off the darn meter yesterday so I killed the battery in it. Will try again tomorrow.

Thanks for the input folks.


Dave H...
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Discussion Starter #9
And the fun continues.

I replace my voltmeter battery still doesn't work anymore???

Took the bike to the Parkway on Monday. we did not make it I turned it around and brought her home. Absolutely very little power, a couple of backfires and the feeling that she is missing (uneven motor sounds and bike vibrations.)

That evening she ran fine. The next day the same thing lack of power vibrations, etc.

Put in new plugs - properly gapped - checked the air filter looks brand new - put in some sea mist in case it was a drity carb symptom. Same thing the bike just will not get out of its way OR it takes off like a speed demon. ???

Please tell me I did the right thing buying a Goldwing?
 

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hows the fuel filter? drain the crankcase breather bottle
 

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Prof,

Have you checked the three stator wires yet for soundness and good connections? This good/bad running condition really sounds like a poor connection to me, and those stator wires are where I'd check first.

What say you, Forum Yodas? Trike Lady? knelson1969? Other whiz kids?
 

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It could be the connections/wires, but if it intermittantly fires up on its own, you can likely rule out the stator itself. No stator the bike would go dead and stay dead. And a bad stator will kill the battery. Stator wires and connections first I'd say; then I'd try the ignition switch like trike lady said.
 

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Yep, I'm just talking about connections, not the stator itself.

If Prof's bike still has the original plug connections, they need to go away and soldered and shrinktubed connections replace them. And, check up the wires a ways from the connection. I barely caught the upper splice on my bike and it was the one with the poor solder connections; whoever did it must not have used flux, as the solder was just on the surfaces, needs to be melted INTO both wires for best results.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update:

Replaced the fuse in my meter and it works fine.

Found the three yellow wire connector to the left of the battery. It looks very bad with a lot of heat damage and corrosion. Played with the connector and could make the bike misbehave or act brand new. This "must" be the problem.

Will work on by passing that connector via solder and heat shrink later today.

Thanks everyone now lets see if this will indeed fix it. :)


Dave H...
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Discussion Starter #15
Ok the repair, bypass the connector, job is complete. I think ??? I did a fairly good job. Short trips the bike seems to be a lot better. Now, lets take it to the garage and find out what is wrong with my car and then make a Blue Ridge Parkway trip.

Hopefully in a few hours I will return smiling. :)


Professor
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nope twenty minutes into the ride and I had to return home. Almost immediately the ride was not up to par and then it just got worse.

Maybe a solder joint is not holding well ?????

I only had a thrity watt soldering iron so the joint was not as hot as it could have been with a larger watt unit ????


Professor
 

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Prof,

It is essential that the stator connections are really sound, including solder fluxed and melted into both wires at each point joined. So do it right, dammit!:p

With the wires as bad as you describe, I'd also check all along this harness for wear points, hidden splices, whatever. Do it once right and you won't have to think about it again until/if/when the stator croaks.
 

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Won't crank. Took the negative lead off the battery and hooked up a voltmeter negative cable to negative terminal reads 12 Volts. To me that indicates a short. Serviced battery and reconnected the negative cable started right up! Two days later the same sceneriao, it won't crank.

Today I took out one fuse at a time and checked the voltage reading negative cable to negative terminal remained a constant 12 volts ????

Where do I begin to iosolate my short?


Thanks,
Dave H...
Professor
Hi I feel your frustration nothing will drive you nuts like an electrical problem.
From what I can tell it would seem that you have a power draw, Every modern vehicle has a power draw which is acceptable.
The point is how much power draw do you have?
With a DVOM you can connect your meter in line with your negative cable and the negative battery post. your negative meter lead should be connected to the amp post on your meter then the meter should be set to milliamp scale, If I remember correctly you need under 180 milliamp draw with the key off. anything over is too much draw and your battery will die. make sure when you are testing like this that you do not turn the key on as you will burn up your meter as all the current will go through your meter, the meter and the leads are not rated for this, if you have done this and your meter does not work. you may get lucky and be able to replace a fuse in the meter. If you want a simpler way to test for too much power draw, use a 12 volt test light connecting the test light clamp to the negative post of the battery then touch the probe part of the test light to the negative cable the light should come on dim however if you keep the test light connected and lightly touch the probe to the negative post of the battery the light will go out once you pull the probe away from the negative post the light should remain off if their is no power draw other that the computer and radio keep alive circuit. if you are unsure create a draw like turning the key on and you will see the test light go bright it will go out once you touch the probe to the negative post and come right back on once you pull away from the post. the same test can be done on any vehicle, however if your car or bike has an air bag system you are to pull the fuses to prevent the bags from going off.
each vehicle has a rated acceptable power draw limit and can be found in a service manual. I do not know what this is on your wing so perhaps someone with a manual can look this up for you.
Keep your chin up GoldWings are a great bike yours just needs some loving.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
To the right side of my battery is another very corroded/heat effected connector. Is this the rectifier? What is it's purpose? What exactly does a stator do that it effects my bike's performance?
I will check the overall ground tomorrow. Yes I had used my meter to try to determine which circuit had a short. Unfortunately that did not work out as the short remained even though I removed one fuse at a time. :(

I very much appreciate everyone's feedback and thoughts.


Professor
 
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