[76ltd]

Hello everyone. New to the forum.
I have a 76 GL1000 (LTD if that matters) that is getting about 12 mpg...
Rebuilt carefully using Randaak's Carb Rebuild DVD and master carb rebuild kit. Tried troubleshooting using his site, but sooo much info, don't really know where to start. Possibly electrical?
Started right up. Sync'ed carbs, valve gap ok. Would love any suggestions. Thanks

 

[trike lady]

Hello and welcome to the forum.
You could have a little air restriction. When you rebuilt the carbs did you clean them thoroughly? Replace everything?
Here's a list of possibilities:
1. Choke stuck closed
2. Float level set too high or sticking
3. Needle and seat faulty and/or worn
4. Carb air jets clogged
5. Air cleaner clogged

Possibly the electrical, certainly insufficient voltage to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
The coils may not be receiving the right amount of primary voltage to be stepped up at the secondary winding and sent to the spark plugs.

 

[76ltd]

Thanks for the quick reply. I Have actually rebuilt the carbs twice. The 2nd time I took painstaking measures and an exorbanant amount of time to try and get it just right.
All parts were completely clean. I will go through my manual and randakks site to see about not enough voltage. I am also replacing the points with his recommended 450 honda points. Looks like they were over gapped?
Will know in a few minutes if it helped.
Thanks again.

 

[trike lady]

I would say yes on check the resistance of the coils and wires.
It's a collapsing field ignition system and when the points break the spark travels.
Check the secondary and primary windings of the coils.
These are dual lead externally grounded and if the core is exposed do an IB test (Insulation Breakdown) P1 to Core and S1 to Core.
Check plug wires for proper resistance.

Testing Primary:
Meter setting 200 ohms
R= P1
B= P2
Range= .05-10 ohms or manufacturers specs

Testing Secondary
Meter setting 20K ohms
R=S1
B=S2
Range= 5K-20K ohms or manufacturers specs

Checking IB
R=P1 & B= Core
R=S1 & B= Core

The cap may unscrew from the wire, test at 20K ohms.
Range= 5K ohms or manufacturers specs

Wires to manufacturers specs.

 

[wvwing]

Wow trike lady! Is there anything you can't do?

 

[trike lady]

I constantly study electrical stuff, it's fun.
In class I breezed through the electrical part and others haven't even finished.

In a collapsing field ignition coil, there is always 12 standing volts ready and waiting to be released.
In a rising field there is no 12 volts present and it must be sent to fire the plugs.
I think the poor fellow logged off when he got all that info at one sitting.
If the bike has the original points they may be shot. Some upgrade with the Dyna S electronic ignition to have a more reliable system.
If he hasn't tested for standing 12 volts at the coil, that could be the problem.

 

[Cantankerous]

I constantly study electrical stuff, it's fun.
In class I breezed through the electrical part and others haven't even finished.

In a collapsing field ignition coil, there is always 12 standing volts ready and waiting to be released.
In a rising field there is no 12 volts present and it must be sent to fire the plugs.
I think the poor fellow logged off when he got all that info at one sitting.
If the bike has the original points they may be shot. Some upgrade with the Dyna S electronic ignition to have a more reliable system.
If he hasn't tested for standing 12 volts at the coil, that could be the problem.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't he have about 8 volts on each set of points on the coil side?

 

[budoka]

Welcome 76ltd, your in good hands with the lady. Wish I had half her brains, I could throw away mine.

 

[trike lady]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't he have about 8 volts on each set of points on the coil side?

My error , I was working with the numbers from the HD Collapsing Field Hall Effect Sensor and the 12 standing volts at the coil.

7 to 9 volts DC and you are correct.

Everything in post #5 has to do with how to use a digital multimeter to make the tests. R=Red test lead, B=Black test lead and the various ohms scales on the meter. The P in the P1 and P2 is the primary on the ignition coil, where the power comes in. The S1 and S2 are the secondary and they send the 'Stepped up' voltage to the spark plugs. The ignition coil is basically a miniature step up transformer.

There is one place I would have you look for cleanliness and that is the three yellow wires from the stator to the regulator, the three place white connector along side the battery, make sure that there is no corrosion on the pins and sockets. This allows the regulator/rectifier to do it's job properly.