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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

New to site, new to goldwings!
Bought a GL1200 Apen. last week, runs a little rough, doggy at take off, misses a bit, not a whole lot of power at any range. Volt meter on dash died, so I started reading and learned about the 3 yellow wire issue, my connector was one of the worse one's I've seen in all the pics posted. What's odd though is it runs, lights all work, horn, radio, etc, with no drop in light output at low rpms or even with bright and radio on.

Did tons of reading this past week. Went out last night with a meter and fooled around some more, here is what I have seen.

Stator wires disconnected from R/R, bike running at idle 40Vac a-b, a-c, b-c.
At higher rpms 3k or so, 63Vac a-b, 63 Vac a-c, 52Vac b-c.
At idle yellow wires tested Vac to ground, 40V a to ground, 40V b to ground, 2V (yea 2 volts) c to ground.
With the ohm meter, digital gauge, reads short to ground each of three wires to each other, AND each of three wires to bike frame.
Everything on the bike works with no dimming of lights at idle, turn signals and bright light on.
However, DC voltage at battery never gets above 12.5. Charged the battery all night, rode to work and back today, 5 miles each way, radio on, no new issues. It has a sluggish feel, sounds like it's missing a bit. Runs smoother with a 1/4 choke.

I've concluded, please correct me if I'm wrong, that the stator is toast. Just for giggles and/or practice I'm going to hardwire the stator to the R/R and clean the grounding surfaces there. I'm thinking my sluggish operation could be due to the bad leg on the stator, maybe only partial juice getting to coils, or?? Just hoping I can get it running a bit smoother before I commit to the Poorboy route.

I'm getting a blown fuse at the ACC connection, connected to it is a voltmeter, cigarette lighter, cruise control (which doesn't work anyway), and I think the side marker lights on front wheel. My idea is to disconnect all but the voltmeter, since I can see the wires and know there's no short or more stuff spliced into it.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? Will I damage anything running it with a bad stator other than risking running the battery down and not starting?

Off to find a soldering gun and misc. to start working on it some more.

John
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum.
Sorry to hear the stator went south. Once you did the final test (IB Test) that's it.
The bike has a 'Three Phase' charging system and you're only running on two of them
You need all the power you can get for the CD Ignition or it won't produce a good discharge. You may damage the CDI.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wish you would have tried to prove me wrong!!

Just finished hardwiring all the way to the R/R, and disconnecting the other stuff on the ACC fuse box plug. Still running with a miss, and sounds sluggish. However voltage at the battery now goes UP with the throttle, going from 12.5 at idle to 12.9 at about 3k rpm's.

Took the aircleaner out, gonna try and coax some carb cleaner thru it.

Later!
 

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Do you still have the 2 volts DC on the C leg of the three phase winding to ground?
You should be receiving 14.0 to 15.0 VDC @ the battery and no more as the regulator diverts the excess.
The numbers tell the story and I see that you had run the test correctly.
Strange things happen to these charging systems over the years. A winding may have a break in it and when the bike is cold, the charge being sent is excellent; however once that stator begins to get hot, the wire opens and the leg drops out and it is now charging on two legs of the three phase. The insulation breaks down on the windings.
If you're adventurous and want a challenge, removing the engine and replacing the bad one with an updated Limited/SEi stator and reg/rec.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You know....I didn't check the stator after screwing with the wires. I haven't sealed the heat shrink all the way down yet...I'll go check that!!

I'm adventurous, and don't mind a challenge...but it's 5:30pm and still 110 degrees out. Don't know if I could pull the engine in the heat...in the driveway! What are your thoughts on the Poorboy alternator upgrade? Still looks like it'd be a few hours in the sun.

Will post back with stator voltages.

Thanks.
 

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To pull the engine in a driveway and in excessive heat of Arizona, no not a good idea you could fall out and get hurt the engine is heavy, in a garage certainly.
I'm in Florida and trying to work on my trike in the carport doesn't quite cut it.
It's been raining on and off in Florida, just gets muggy here when its done.
Your first set of numbers tell the story, all tests are made with the stator disconnected for accuracy.
The numbers to the battery are the ones you want to check 14.0-15.0 VDC and nothing more.
The Wing owners who went to the Poorboy didn't have to remove the engine and have more electricity then they need and so the unused gets diverted. It uses a small car alternator which is great on Wings with all the accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've got kids, wont be too heavy!!
Yea, 74 with 90% humidity vs 110 with 6% don't know which is worse!!

Gonna go for a ride with my kid, enjoy what I can, youngest is 16...he'll tag along on one of the little bikes. Then I think I'll get to work on getting a Poorboy's on order.

Later, thanks for the help.
 

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Gosh, once again I am amazed at the knowledge here. How do you folks know so much about the electrical issues? IB test, 3 phase charging system, CD ignition, ...etc. All I can say is,"HUH???"
 

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Gosh, once again I am amazed at the knowledge here. How do you folks know so much about the electrical issues? IB test, 3 phase charging system, CD ignition, ...etc. All I can say is,"HUH???"
Don't feel bad maestro. I thought I was on the wrong forum until I noticed it was trike lady responding.
 

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running on choke isa sign that the carbs need cleaning. if the stator was bad you would be lucky to ride about anywhere and return home on battery power
 

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Gosh, once again I am amazed at the knowledge here. How do you folks know so much about the electrical issues? IB test, 3 phase charging system, CD ignition, ...etc. All I can say is,"HUH???"


I guess for some of us it's like falling off a log.

(Or maybe getting knocked on your butt with 20,000 volts!
Trust me, that hurts!)


:D:D:D
 

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Gosh, once again I am amazed at the knowledge here. How do you folks know so much about the electrical issues? IB test, 3 phase charging system, CD ignition, ...etc. All I can say is,"HUH???"
Don't feel bad maestro. I thought I was on the wrong forum until I noticed it was trike lady responding.
Sounded like an electrical engineering forum, instead of Goldwings.
I get a charge out of electrical work (Pun intended), I can study electrical schematics for hours and it's fun. The one part that is totally fascinating is the ECM a mysterious black box that receives three different types of signals from sensors, analyzes the data and then sends it to the correct component. All that data being processed in milliseconds as you ride down the road.
 

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Ok, this is a bit off the subject,but,it's electrical; On the '88 I got last wk, I'm taking things apart...like the Hella driving lights..AND the relay (with no fuse BTW).
Anyway, after removing the lowers & front cover I noticed that there is only one horn, there is a connector (plug) for a second horn.

Does anyone know if the '88's came with two horns? Since there is a second plug..could I just add a second horn without worry about the fuse capacity? Or, should there be a different rated fuse with two horns?:confused:
Thanks for any info.:)
 

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Ok, this is a bit off the subject,but,it's electrical; On the '88 I got last wk, I'm taking things apart...like the Hella driving lights..AND the relay (with no fuse BTW).
Anyway, after removing the lowers & front cover I noticed that there is only one horn, there is a connector (plug) for a second horn.

Does anyone know if the '88's came with two horns? Since there is a second plug..could I just add a second horn without worry about the fuse capacity? Or, should there be a different rated fuse with two horns?:confused:
Thanks for any info.:)
According to the schematic for the 1988 there were two horns, the PO probably removed it. There was a high and low tone originally, one probably went bad. The fuse should be the size listed on the cover.
 

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According to the schematic for the 1988 there were two horns, the PO probably removed it. There was a high and low tone originally, one probably went bad. The fuse should be the size listed on the cover.
Thanks trike lady; It makes sense otherwise Honda wouldn't have included two plugs. My two other wings have two horns. I'm pretty sure I have a couple of extra's from a Saber & Magna...should work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info guys.

I ran a full charge on the battery Saturday. Went for a ride Saturday evening, rode to work this morning. I think I am running off the Battery only. If i disconnect the battery with the bike running it dies.

Any thoughts?
Thanks
 

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Disconnecting the battery while it's running is the same as turning off the ignition key...no power to the electrical system, besides that I don't think that's very good for the electronics either, as well as dangerous. If you have battery gases coming out of the battery while you were disconnecting the cable and cause a spark..you may have your battery explode.:eek: .:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So it's not wired similar to a car....where it will run without the battery if the alternator/stator is charging? I know it's probably not too good on the system but as a quick check IF it works like a car then you know for sure something is wrong. I've done it on another bike, not a goldwing, instead of jumping it I just switched batteries long enough to start, then put the dead one back in to charge while riding. Worked fine, need to see if a known working goldwing will run without the battery.

Bladerunner, yea, exploding a battery would be no fun. Funniest thing I've ever seen...around here it's not uncommon to see someone set a good car battery upside down on top of a problem battery in order to jump start a car. Talk about scary!!
 

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I saw a young guy at a scrap yard years ago, he must have been new. He was taking apart some old batteries to recover the lead.

He had a torch and I guess these batteries were supposed to be dry..not sure,but, as he passed the torch over one it exploded...his only saving grace was..he was waring safety glasses!:eek:

His face looked like he was hit with buck shot! He was in shock and didn't even move, the bits stuck in his face must have had acid on them I'm sure..he was in bad shape. That right there made me fully aware of how serious this could be..it's really nothing anyone should take lightly.:(
 
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