First, I don't have one

could it be that the bike just needs a couple of heat cycles to clear the code, just like when you replace a bad gas cap on a car??????

 

That's crazy. What about all these guys that need the UBS bolt recall or fuel pump recall done? If Honda required the bike to be left before the parts could be ordered, the shops would be completely filled and not have any room left to do any kind of work. I agree that this sounds crazy.

 

Furthermore, the dealers don't want owner's bikes sitting in their workshop taking up space for days and possibly getting scratched or worse while in their care. Nobody benefits from this for a key fob replacement as the bike itself is perfectly operable.

 

I don't see why you have to leave the bike. The dealer can verify the problem, order the FOB and call you when it comes in. Did Honda actually say you had to leave it, or did the dealer say it?
I have a 2012 and anytime it needed warranty parts, my dealer would order them and call me when they came in.
I can see that they want the bike in the shop to order the parts, but "Honda protocol requires they must have the bike in their possession for a warranty claim", not that you have to leave it.

 

I agree, that is crazy. I know for the bolt recall the dealer I have on the hook to fix it, ordered the part without even seeing my bike. (He did get my VIN#, so maybe that dialed me in.) I argue with them every time about leaving my bike there for service. I've asked repeatedly for a way to schedule it; just pretend the bike is there and I'll bring it in the day you will get to it.......

 

Though I can understand that the dealer may need the bike to verify the problem, there is absolutely no reason to leave it until the part comes in.
Recalls are different. Honda knows the problem exists on a particular model and VIN and ships the parts sight unseen.
Even after the part arrives, the repair can be scheduled without having the bike sitting at the shop.
This has been done with my Silverado and my wife's Kia.
Was the bike even taken in for verification, or did the OP just want the dealers to 'trust' him?

 

If it turns out you MUST leave the bike there, consider the cost of all that driving back and forth, downtime not having the bike, etc. and see if spending the $200 is a better value.

 

What happens if you disconnect the bikes battery for a night? Then turn off the fob’s before reconnecting the bikes battery.

 

Does the wing stuff video actually show you how to reprogram the fob? If so, maybe you can just reprogram the fob and it may correct the issue.
This is another reason why every vehicle I have has a KEY 🗝

 

I have to thank forum member "dsurley" for putting me on the right track ref my key fob low battery dashboard warning remaining on even after changing the battery, something none of the 4 Honda dealer service managers I spoke to could help me with. At first when dsurley replied that perhaps it needed a couple of "heat cycles" I really didn't get what he meant. But having exhausted all battery swaps, including three different brands of CR2032 3v, I gave up trying. So the next day, as the "faulty" fob was still talking to the bike and allowing me to open panniers and start the thing up, I decided to stop playing about with it, booked it into a Honda dealer for a "warranty issue" and decided to go for a ride with both fobs in my pocket, plus spare batteries, but with only the "faulty" one turned on. Started the bike up no problem but the warning stayed on. Recalling the suggestion about "heat cycles" I turned the bike off and started it up again but got the same result. Thinking perhaps the third time might be the charmer, I tried again but no luck, so just set off for my ride. About 50 miles later I pulled into a gas station to refuel with the low key fob battery warning still showing on the dash. Switched off, refueled and turned the ignition back on to find the dashboard warning now gone. Started the bike up and still no dash warning. Got home, turned the bike off, turned the ignition back on and still no warning. It turns out there is no "fault" with the key fob. The fault is with the owner's manual and the workshop manual, neither of which mention anything about having to ride the bike until it has reached normal operating temperature and then having to turn the ignition off in order to reset the key fob low battery warning. When you pay this much money for Honda's flagship bike, you'd think they would give a full description of replacing the key fob battery including the "heat cycles" rather than just telling you how to replace the battery itself.
I wonder how many Goldwing owners have run into this and whether any have ever been told about the "heat cycle" procedure.
Many thanks again to "dsurely" who saved me a whole heap of potential hassle and expense taking it to a dealer to fix a non-existing problem.

 

Thanks
glad it works as it should

from years doing mechanic work....... there are lots of repairs that you can't clear the code with a code reader.... it just has to be driving and let the computer figure it out........

I should have clarified what I meant by "heat cycles"
get it up to operating temps a couple of times...

 

As fate would have it, I just received a call back from Honda USA so I related the whole story to them and suggested that they really need to amend their owners manual and workshop manuals to add a sentence or two about the heat cycle protocol as clearly simply replacing the battery is only half the story. I doubt anything will come of it. Its the same with their automatic answering service when you call them and hear that your particular bike has an outstanding recall that needs to be fixed. My recall was the water pump issue which wasn't actually an issue for my model year but was checked by the dealer before I took delivery of the (new) bike a year ago. Honda USA acknowledges that the recall had been performed a year ago but apparently can't fix the automated call answering service that still tells me it is outstanding. If I ever sell the bike and a prospective owner calls Honda USA to check on service records, the first thing they will hear is that there is an outstanding recall🤦😱.

 

My experience with replacing the battery in my fob didn't need a heat cycle. I've changed it twice and both times It recognized the new battery right away. So, maybe it will not be everyone's experience.

 

That gives me hope for the future with the second fob. I'm assuming that you waited for the low battery warning to appear on the dash before changing the battery. I know many change the battery after a year before the low battery warning appears.

 

Yes, a notice showed up on the dash and I changed out the battery. I've only used the one fob. I'm not really sure where the second got off to, but it's probably somewhere in my closet.

 

I recall reading somewhere that if you don't connect the fob to the bike for 30 days, it decouples, but I can't find this anywhere now. Anyway, I swap mine out every week to ensure both are working fine.

 

How about this for warranty madness from Honda. The low key fob battery warning came up on the dashboard the other day while riding. The bike is a year old with nearly 15,000 miles on the clock. I get home and put a new battery in the key fob, but the warning on the dash stays on. I put another new battery in and the warning stays on. The other key fob (I switch them weekly) is working fine, so I take the battery from the working fob and put it in the non-working fob, but the warning on the dash still stays on. I put the original battery from the non-working fob into the working fob and it works just fine with no warnings. I check all the fob batteries that i have tried (4) and while the old ones are at 2.9-3.00v and both work in the good fob, neither work in the bad fob and neither of the new batteries which actually record 3.4v work in the bad fob. So conclusion is that the fob is bad and needs replacing under warranty.
Here comes the madness.
None of the 4 dealers within 60 miles of my home carry spare key fobs, they all have to be ordered from Honda. But in order to do this under warranty the Honda protocol requires that I leave the bike with them before they can order the fob. It then takes a week or so to get the new fob and they then have to program it. I asked them all if I could just ride the bike in, let them see the fob is bad, have them order a new one while I ride off to return as and when they have the new fob in their possession and ready to undertake the 5 minute process of programming it to the bike. (The Wingstuff real time video on programming a new fob is 7 minutes long from start to finish).
None would oblige me stating the Honda protocol requires they must have the bike in their possession for a warranty claim. Alternatively I could buy the key fob and connector for $200 and skip the warranty process, but why should I have to do this?
To get this done under warranty I have to take the bike 60 miles to the dealer and have my wife drive the car to pick me up and make the 60 mile drive home. Then lose the bike for a week or so before taking the car and wife back to the dealer and return the two vehicles back another 60 miles home. That's a total of 240 miles to get a key fob replaced and lose use of the bike for a week or more even though I have a spare fob that works fine.
Is it me or is this just bonkers protocol from Honda costing me time and gas just to suit their protocol?
I explained this to Honda Powersports in CA and asked them to bubble this up to get some practical resolution. I doubt I'll get anything but "fobbed off." (sorry, I couldn't resist the pun).
And just to add insult to injury, the bad fob still connects to the bike and operates everything just fine, but it simply triggers the low key fob battery dash display. By the way the low battery flashing light in the fob itself is not activated implying even the fob itself does not think the battery is low, just that there is a weak signal from the fob to the bike, nothing to do with the battery itself.
Any comments?

Yes, put a small piece of Black electrical tape over the Dashboard Light and ride on into the Sunset and GW bliss.

I took a 'Check engine' LIGHTBULB out of the Dash instrument panel on my Suzuki Samuri 4x4 and it fixed the problem.

Mother Honda is getting more and more like the 'Decedent' Harley Davidson, in caring about it's customer's!

Sam

 

I currently have my '24 Tour also with intermittent fob issues at the shop. New batteries didn't resolve the fob missing notification and it led to a sudden highway panier opening (didn'tnotice the warning on bright sun of El Paso). I will try the heat cycle mentined above. FYI: this looks like a software glitch looking for a permanent fix.

 

How about this for warranty madness from Honda. The low key fob battery warning came up on the dashboard the other day while riding. The bike is a year old with nearly 15,000 miles on the clock. I get home and put a new battery in the key fob, but the warning on the dash stays on. I put another new battery in and the warning stays on. The other key fob (I switch them weekly) is working fine, so I take the battery from the working fob and put it in the non-working fob, but the warning on the dash still stays on. I put the original battery from the non-working fob into the working fob and it works just fine with no warnings. I check all the fob batteries that i have tried (4) and while the old ones are at 2.9-3.00v and both work in the good fob, neither work in the bad fob and neither of the new batteries which actually record 3.4v work in the bad fob. So conclusion is that the fob is bad and needs replacing under warranty.
Here comes the madness.
None of the 4 dealers within 60 miles of my home carry spare key fobs, they all have to be ordered from Honda. But in order to do this under warranty the Honda protocol requires that I leave the bike with them before they can order the fob. It then takes a week or so to get the new fob and they then have to program it. I asked them all if I could just ride the bike in, let them see the fob is bad, have them order a new one while I ride off to return as and when they have the new fob in their possession and ready to undertake the 5 minute process of programming it to the bike. (The Wingstuff real time video on programming a new fob is 7 minutes long from start to finish).
None would oblige me stating the Honda protocol requires they must have the bike in their possession for a warranty claim. Alternatively I could buy the key fob and connector for $200 and skip the warranty process, but why should I have to do this?
To get this done under warranty I have to take the bike 60 miles to the dealer and have my wife drive the car to pick me up and make the 60 mile drive home. Then lose the bike for a week or so before taking the car and wife back to the dealer and return the two vehicles back another 60 miles home. That's a total of 240 miles to get a key fob replaced and lose use of the bike for a week or more even though I have a spare fob that works fine.
Is it me or is this just bonkers protocol from Honda costing me time and gas just to suit their protocol?
I explained this to Honda Powersports in CA and asked them to bubble this up to get some practical resolution. I doubt I'll get anything but "fobbed off." (sorry, I couldn't resist the pun).
And just to add insult to injury, the bad fob still connects to the bike and operates everything just fine, but it simply triggers the low key fob battery dash display. By the way the low battery flashing light in the fob itself is not activated implying even the fob itself does not think the battery is low, just that there is a weak signal from the fob to the bike, nothing to do with the battery itself.
Any comments?

I had a similar problem with my 2022. I purchased new name brand batteries and even tested them and they all tested above 3.0v. So I put a cheap 2032 I bought from Amazon and the problem went away.

 

The battery voltage should be 3.3v or above. Those batteries are technically dead around 3 volts.
Always check the date code on the batteries and shy away from ones over a year old.