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Discussion Starter #1
Having just dealt with a leak emanating from the final drive filler cap, I just found a new source of oil leakage in the same neighborhood.

I've consulted the GL1800 Service Manual and looked at the parts breakdowns for Final Drive (the shiny bit to the right below), Clutch, Front Cover, Rear Case and the Gearshift Linkage/Transmission pages. I don't see this connector? rubber mount? anywhere.

What is this? Are there torque specifications? Oil appears to be seeping on the top part of this bracket/mount on the right side closest to the final drive. Evidently where the bolt enters the case. What system of the GL1800 is this attached to? Where can I get to the Service specs?

Please help!

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It's a vibration dampener. Not even shown with a number on the parts fiche.
The mounting holes do not go through the case. If their is oil there it may be rear end fluid leaking past the seal and dripping between the castings.
I asked the Goldwing tech about it when I had my 2004. Your previous post about the "screw" leaking tends to confirm that.
Sounds like the previous owner put a screw and washer in the drain hole to stop the leak. well it found another place to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The "previous owner" was the Honda dealership. I purchased it new.

I saw something somewhere that said that screw you referred to was there intentionally to redirect any oil leaks away from the brakes. If you will recall the photo I uploaded with that post, it showed the screw on page 3-20 in the Service manual (see also below). So, Honda engineered it there.

Turns out that the oil dripping on that screw originated from the final drive filler cap. After I changed the final drive fluid and cleaned everything in the area up, I took several small test rides to see where the leak came from. There was seepage coming from the filler cap. Without taking off the muffler, I couldn't get a torque wrench on the cap, so probably didn't crank it down hard enough. I went back at it with a ratchet box-end wrench, and checked again after about a 15 mile ride. Dry.

I took a 75 mile run today and checked the area again and felt a little oil sweat on the upper side of that vibration damper where the mounting bolt would go into the case. I'm tempted to remove the damper to see if the seepage comes from higher up, either the case, or the final drive. The part does show up in a photo on page 14-6 of the service manual - bottom picture on the page (as does the screw you mentioned above) - again, see below. Sadly, no label.

If it is a vibration damper, I'm at a loss to understand how it works. I used to own Norton Commandos with "isolastic" engine mounts. There I could see the sense in it. The dampers "isolated" the engine from the frame making for an unusually comfortable ride on an English bike. Here, the part is mounted to the bottom of the case, not bridging the case and the final drive. How is it supposed to dampen vibration? What if the rubberized components of the damper perish? Where/how do I find replacements?

This is all above my pay grade. I'll guess I'll have to try querying the Service Department at one or both nearby dealerships to see what they suppose it is...



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I have been reading this, and yes I have a 2013,
but I have to admit, I haven't looked for things like this. I know from years of working on cars, there are some weird contraptions to dampen noise or vibration. Change the resonance frequency and you can stop noise
I will try to think to take a look tomorrow when I blow out the carport when I finish mowing and see what I see

I also don't worry too much about a little oil seep, same reason as above, plus I drive a Dodge 2500 with the old 24 valve cummins, they seep EVERYWHERE. Don't get me wrong, I keep an eye to make sure it doesn't get worse and keep track of oil consumption.

A 1955 chevy 210 sedan that I had, there is a special, best way to explain it is a catch basin just outside the rear wheel bearings and seals, at the bottom a hole leads to the back of the brake backing plate so that the oil that was going to leak was led outside the brake drum so it could run down outside and drip on the tire and get slung under the fender, your own under coating system.
 

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the final drive filler cap should have an O-ring as part of it
 

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the final drive filler cap should have an O-ring as part of it
Yep just an o ring seal. No pressure in the final drive.
I have a 17mm 6 point box end wrench. I would never use a 12 point on the plug. It's a soft piece of aluminum and rounds very easily. Then you have more problems.
Torque is only 9 ft lbs. No need for a torque wrench. Just tighten enough to seat the O ring.
The service manual actually says to install a "new" O ring.
 

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but you better remove it before draining the oil otherwise it becomes a bear to remove, have been lots written on that one
 

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from what I am seeing looking at parts diagrams and other auto repair knowledge, I am going to say that figure 8 looking piece is just a noise damper, for where it is located is where the splines are for the connection of the drive shaft to the pinion.

there is a seal it that area for the final drive............ it is possible that if that seal goes, that oil has to go somewhere.
couldn't find a picture of one taken apart from the right angle to see more.
 

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The "previous owner" was the Honda dealership. I purchased it new.

I saw something somewhere that said that screw you referred to was there intentionally to redirect any oil leaks away from the brakes. If you will recall the photo I uploaded with that post, it showed the screw on page 3-20 in the Service manual (see also below). So, Honda engineered it there.

Turns out that the oil dripping on that screw originated from the final drive filler cap. After I changed the final drive fluid and cleaned everything in the area up, I took several small test rides to see where the leak came from. There was seepage coming from the filler cap. Without taking off the muffler, I couldn't get a torque wrench on the cap, so probably didn't crank it down hard enough. I went back at it with a ratchet box-end wrench, and checked again after about a 15 mile ride. Dry.

I took a 75 mile run today and checked the area again and felt a little oil sweat on the upper side of that vibration damper where the mounting bolt would go into the case. I'm tempted to remove the damper to see if the seepage comes from higher up, either the case, or the final drive. The part does show up in a photo on page 14-6 of the service manual - bottom picture on the page (as does the screw you mentioned above) - again, see below. Sadly, no label.

If it is a vibration damper, I'm at a loss to understand how it works. I used to own Norton Commandos with "isolastic" engine mounts. There I could see the sense in it. The dampers "isolated" the engine from the frame making for an unusually comfortable ride on an English bike. Here, the part is mounted to the bottom of the case, not bridging the case and the final drive. How is it supposed to dampen vibration? What if the rubberized components of the damper perish? Where/how do I find replacements?

This is all above my pay grade. I'll guess I'll have to try querying the Service Department at one or both nearby dealerships to see what they suppose it is...



View attachment 272961
What you are calling a screw is a drain to direct a leaky seal or over filled final drive away from the rotor.. It's a hollow tube. I took a picture of the one in my 2012. Small wood stick is in about 3/4 inch.

100_0369[1].JPG
 

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What you are calling a screw is a vent. It's a hollow tube. I took a picture of the one in my 2012. Small wood stick is in about 3/4 inch.

View attachment 272964
yep............ heat, creates pressure, and it has to have somewhere to go
all differentials have them............ on a 4x4 it has a hose connected to it and it goes up to the frame (usually)
 

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but you better remove it before draining the oil otherwise it becomes a bear to remove, have been lots written on that one
That's why I use a 6 point only. I also have a spare plug and O ring in my parts box.
 

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looked at the figure 8 piece on my bike, since a wing is so quiet, about all you get is road noise and gear whine.
I am going to say it is a noise damper, used to change the resonance frequency, so the rear diff whine isn't amplified in the entire swing arm
 

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Over-torque on that plug can cause the entire "flange" or "skirt" part to separate from the "bolt" head in the center.

It only requires enough torque to compress the o-ring. No pressure there to speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the final drive filler cap should have an O-ring as part of it
I does indeed. Nevertheless the cap wasn't tight enough with what seemed to me sufficient torque, and there was a small leak. In future, I'll remove the muffler to get a torque wrench on there and nail it first time. But wouldn't you know, there are fiber washers and a gasket that need to be replaced in getting the muffler off. I ordered a bunch of both today. Looks like I too will be keeping a small inventory of parts in (or at least near) the tool box.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Over-torque on that plug can cause the entire "flange" or "skirt" part to separate from the "bolt" head in the center.

It only requires enough torque to compress the o-ring. No pressure there to speak of.
I guess I don't quiet have the 'touch'. The filler cap is on tight now and not leaking. In future, I'll remove the muffler so I can get at the filler cap with a torque wrench and do it according to Hoyle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
looked at the figure 8 piece on my bike, since a wing is so quiet, about all you get is road noise and gear whine.
I am going to say it is a noise damper, used to change the resonance frequency, so the rear diff whine isn't amplified in the entire swing arm
I called one of the dealerships. The Service Department manager said that part never comes off and he confirmed it is not a replaceable (orderable) part.. I suppose that's well and good, but today I spent some time underneath the bike (cleaning said part). Looking at it closely, I saw a couple of rubber rings that will certainly fail at some point. Then what?

The noise/vibration damper is now clean as a whistle. I'll be check this area after every ride to see where the leaks pop up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What you are calling a screw is a drain to direct a leaky seal or over filled final drive away from the rotor.. It's a hollow tube. I took a picture of the one in my 2012. Small wood stick is in about 3/4 inch.

View attachment 272964
I assume you mean that oil leaking nearby will sink to this point and be diverted from the rotor. (I can attest to the fact that that is indeed what it does). You aren't suggesting that there's some kind of pressure relief valve in that hole from which final drive fluid escapes if there's too much pressure, are you? If so, wouldn't this be a replaceable part?
 

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Discussion Starter #19

this shows the part in place, but it does not reference it,
I'm glad there's some documentation that this exists. The swing arm and final drive are pictured under Rear Wheel/Suspension System Components (Page 17-2) in the Service Manual, but the figure-8 vibration/noise damper remains elusive. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. I learned something new.
 

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I'm glad there's some documentation that this exists. The swing arm and final drive are pictured under Rear Wheel/Suspension System Components (Page 17-2) in the Service Manual, but the figure-8 vibration/noise damper remains elusive. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. I learned something new.
if you are really worried about that part, you could contact a trike shop. The entire swingarm is eliminated when trikeing. They may just give it to you.
 
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