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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody second post to the forum I have a couple questions:

the door ajar indicator lights appear to be a fairly common headache with the first generation 1800. I have watched the YouTube videos describing how the strike plates come loose periodically how they are mounted in plastic and generally succumb to the pounding of 20 years use.
I also found a fellows post where he added a Kurchian accessory light and lift handle using amount points for these switch strike plates. My beef with this solution is it adds more weight to the back of the box where, in my assessment, the hinges cause so much sideload on the abs panel and the mount points that both areas on mine have cracks —around the hinges. I can see how flinging this cover open flexes that front panel of the trunk and then maybe a gust of wind would really torque on it. Anyway I am wrestling with the prospect of repairing the damage with Epoxy-PermaTex makes an excellent plastic formula epoxy-the other route is an OEM replacement panel. At $184 that says a lot for repairing the damaged one. In the ficheI see there is a replacement part number:

does anybody know has Honda made design improvements to this component I would be persuaded to buy an improved part.

,I have little to complain about with this new acquisition. Covid created some spectacular bargains for used equipment I nearly gagged on my coffee when I saw this one posted.

One other thing: have people had good success with aftermarket Bluetooth adapters on this bike it includes a 3 1/2 mm output for a cell phone my idea is to try a plug-in Bluetooth adapter with my cell phone mounted up top. What’s the best phone mount adapter as my current one is not optimized to grab these square handlebars.
 

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So i am elbow deep inthis repair and editing a video i will post afterward. Getting the forward trunk and panel out has proven a total cluster… primarily because the cb tuner is under the trunk with a control lead that couples to the shelter controls just ahead of the fuel filler thusly requiring the removal of the meter panel and shelter as well. There are some engenious stiffeners riders have developed to stop the flex that caused my lid to not mesh to the trunk bottom cleanly. So if your door ajar indicator lamp is on, inspect the area where the hinges mount to the trunk. I think everything will click oh so nocely when i get this all together. Video to come.
 

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For your cell phone check out ram mounts, they make mounts that mount to your Master cylinder mounting bolts then go ahead and design the mount you want. I bought mine from Wingstuff.
 

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For your cell phone check out ram mounts, they make mounts that mount to your Master cylinder mounting bolts then go ahead and design the mount you want. I bought mine from Wingstuff.
Thanks Barry, I had not considered that sort of option, BRAVO!

Quick update: With the trunk well installed, I turned yesterday to the lid. With all four mounting bosses broken off by the P.O. I attempted some plastic welds. While I'm a big fan of this process, when you go to install fillister screws in the mounting boss, even the best of my workmanship snapped off... redrilling would remove the threads ##$%#%@...What a terrible design, so sick of repairing Honda fairings!!!

I Poo Poo'd a YouTube vid by Chris Caliente suggesting the fix for this is the addition of a Kuryakyn 3215 handle. Tip of my fedora...He talks like he'd wear a fedora...anyway, he does suggest the best fix:


The handle mount uses the same brittle ABS Plastic mounting bosses used for the failing latches that I had repaired earlier. My initial concern was the overall weight of the handle and the likelihood that the fragile mounts would just crush/collapse under the compression load of the fasteners, or the next gust of wind from behind. SO:

I ordered a Kuryakyn 3215 $103, "gulp", today -I will through drill the lid for the mounting bolts that will next week SOLIDLY fasten the U-shaped latch rods. Finally, with the holes perfectly located, I will blissfully grind off the broken and shatter-repaired ABS and fit two custom nylon blocks in their place. this way, when I torque down on the mounting bolt the blocks will solidly support the constant hammering and vibration of the daily lid use. Tally ho and again I'll post pics, vids later after I stop frothing at the mouth!
 
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