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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys im new here and not so new with honda...i just recieved a 1981 Honda GoldWing 1100 from my uncle for free with only 30k on it...the bad its been sitting for the last 19 years IN a garage...heck he even put new tires on it before he parked it and it still has air,no cracks and still has the stickers on them!...its in really good shape and i got it running within 5 minutes...i tore the whole thing apart gas tank,carbs,everything you could think of and it runs great cruising down the road BUT it wont idle at all...ive checked the vaccum advance valve for vaccum and i do have vaccum,ive ran sea-foam thru it and seemed to help alittle but not much...i took the carbs to the Honda shop and they cleaned them but still nothing...new fuel filter,new battery,etc ive put in...any input would be nice!...sorry if this is in the wrong section but im lost here with my issue :confused:
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum.
Congrats on the Classic Wing.
Here's some things to look into:
1. Incorrect carb sync
2. Incorrect pilot screw adjustment
3. Intake air leak
4. Incorrect idle speed
5. Lean fuel mixture
6. Rich fuel mixture
That's what comes to mind to me. Someone will follow me with more info.
Post a photo when you can
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum. there is a lot of great info here. you got one cool uncle. you say you took the crabs in and had them cleaned, so i am assuming you adjusted the idle screw when you reassembled. Have you synced the carbs yet? On another note new tires sitting around for 20yrs, is still 20 yr old rubber. Don't trust old rubbers they can blow out = bad day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
He just showed up one day at my house and was like here want it??...heck ya i do!...i checked the rubber and driving prolly 100 miles on them and there is no cracking or weather rot at all,still look brand new....ive adjusted everything and tryed it in every position...even got new spark plugs!...the more i drive it,the better it gets with the idle...
 

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Welcome to the GWOF and congratulations on your Classic Wing!

What exactly did the Honda shop do to clean them? Did they rebuild them?

My two cents: If it dies at idle and turning the idle speed adjustment screw makes no difference, it's starving for fuel = dirty pilot valve(s). 1oz/gal of Seafoam with fresh gas and some good 1-hour rides should help. The clue is your comment about riding it seeming to help with idle. An additive will speed up the cleanout of those hard to clean nooks and crannies in the carb.

You'll still want to do the other stuff as mentioned by Trike Lady.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i took the carbs off and took them in...i told them to clean them and they said they did...didnt put anything new in i dont think...the more i run it the better it seems but hasnt gotten any better for awhile
 

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Need more detail on what the shop did.
Did they disassemble the carbs, pull and clean the jets, fuel inlet needle valve, adjust float height, set the pilot screws according to spec, etc.?
If it's got little or no idle when warm, it may be dirty or poorly adjusted pilot screws. If the caps are still in the pilot screw holes and look older than new, then they were not adjusted. What did they charge for their work and will they help you resolve this?
 

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The pilot screws are covered by a pressed in cap. You drill a hole in them, hook them with a tool and pull them out. I do not replace them when done.
 

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On my '85 there are no pilot jets, just screws. They control the amount of fuel metered in at idle.
 

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He just showed up one day at my house and was like here want it??...heck ya i do!...i checked the rubber and driving prolly 100 miles on them and there is no cracking or weather rot at all,still look brand new....ive adjusted everything and tryed it in every position...even got new spark plugs!...the more i drive it,the better it gets with the idle...
I know your saying that those tires still look brand new but PLEASE do yourself a favor and change the tires anyway, MC tires are good for 6 years MAX......doesn't matter how they've been stored, they can and will blow out on you and if you have ever had a blow out on a MC......it's not fun and can KILL you. I implore you, no I beg you to change those tires before doing any real riding, your life is worth more than the price of two new tires, they can blow out on you with no notice at all. Whether you realize it or not the rubber compounds have broken down just from age.:eek:

DO NOT RIDE ON 19 YEAR OLD TIRES, I'M SURE THE OTHER MEMBERS WILL BACK ME ON THIS ONE
 

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Hello and welcome plus one on the the tires. It is very cool that your Uncle gave you his Wing. I don't trust other people's work, take the carbs back apart buy rebuild kits so you get all the new gaskets and o rings etc rebuild these carbs after giving them a 24 hour soak with intermitant aggiatation in new carb cleaner. Rinse well with water flushing water in each and every orfice. Used compressed air and blow out each orfice. Do not leave any removable parts in this carb when it is soaking strip it completely. When you are done rebuilding it you may have to resync the carbs a few times as you get he bike dialed in.
Before all of this if your bike is still together, pull a compression test,
And recheck all the basics.
 

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Curious to see how this has turned out for our new members. POst results please!:D
 

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I've got a 1982 1100 that my step-dad gave to me that I have the same problem. I've done everything you've done plus re-synced the carbs. I adjust the idol screw up were it idols good, but when riding, it will rev up when I shift. I rode it by keeping on the throttle a little all last year. Kinda getting old. Lol


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All I can say is I spent many years learning all I could from veteran technicians on how to properly rebuild carbs for automobiles and while they all had tricks of the trade for each type of carb the one common thing that each and every tech shared that cleaning the carb is the most important part. Back in the day when I lost count of the amount of rebuilds I did
None of the car- truck carbs were as difficult to clean as motorcycle carbs because of the amount of hardened crud that would get built up in the small orfices due to the constant cycles of non use and fuel evaporating so IMHO if you rebuilt your carb or carbs and all the basics have been covered you must redo the carb overhaul with good carb cleaning solvent with aggiatation
While your parts are soaking. It's like stripping paint you never get all the layers of paint with the first application. Like they say if at first you don't succeed try again then repeat if nessasary. That's my story and I am sticking to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The main one in the middle of right side?...i have not touched the small ones on the carb...believe i have 3 and 1 carb doesnt have one...it runs great down the road and ive put roughly 70 miles on this year...the warmer the motor gets the better/higher the idle gets...and every time i pull the clutch in and shift my rpms go up to around 3500...hmmm?
 

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No Idle

If the bike revs when you shift and won't idle you have an air leak.
Can be in the plenum or any one of the carb domes, or a bad "O" ring. but chances are it is not an internal problem. Did you do the WD40 test? Spray the outside of the carbs with WD 40. If the revs drop you have an air leak.
When you rebuilt the carbs did you mix up the domes and slides? Are you sure you don't have a sticking slide in one carb? Easy to check: take off the domes and see if the sliders bind. I had two dome that had been dropped and the sliders stuck half way up. If they're good each slider should rest upside down at the same height in each dome.
If you've mixed them up you could have one slider that is experiencing too much vacuum.
What did you set the idle mixture screws to? Conventional wisdom has them all set 2 turns out form all the way in for a start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have not done the WD40 test...and i did not rebuild the carbs...i took them into honda and had them clean them and check everything...nothing didnt got replaced as far as i know...when i got them back it still wouldnt idle...i have alittle bit of gunk around the dome of a few of the carbs where they connect together tho...and when i do the idle screws on each carb,do i turn them all the way down flush with the nut or all the way down and then put the nut on?...there is prolly 2-3 threads above the nuts now
 
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