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Neutral Diode -

Hey Evoyles - The part you have circled looks like the "Neutral Safety Diode". It's purpose is to provide the ground to the starter solenoid when the transmission is in neutral. With this part of your starter circuit complete - when you press the start button, the starter turns the motor over.

The Diode itself is pretty tough and does not fail often - but it's electrical terminals inside the socket can overheat, turn dark and melt the plastic. If the socket is severely damaged - you can often pull the diode out of the socket, clean up it's electrical terminals and you are good to go. The plastic socket itself is generic and can be purchased at an auto parts store.

Does your "Green Neutral Light" turn on with the key "ON" and the transmission is in "Neutral ?

There is lots of help available on this site if needed -

Michael
 

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I think Michael is bang on on this. If there is a problem with the connector plug or diode, the green light won't come on. If it does, and the bike won't fire up, something else is acting up. I'd try testing with a multi meter and see what you get before trying to fix anything.
 

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Hey Evoyles - Have you been able to determine if the "Neutral Safety Diode" you asked about is working properly ? Here is a simplified diagram of the start circuit that might help you sort things out -

If you follow the green circuit up from ground, it goes to the "Shift Sensor Switch" (Transmission Neutral Sw) then through the "Neutral Diode " and on to one side of the "Starter Relay Coil". The left side of the Starter Relay Coil is looking for B+ power when the "Ignition Sw" is turned "ON" and the "Starter Button" is pressed. You'll also notice that the "Neutral Indicator Light" is Lit when the Ignition Sw is ON and the Transmission is in Neutral.

There is a secondary ground path available to energize the "Starter Relay or Solenoid" and start the motor when the Ignition Switch is ON, Clutch Lever is pulled in and the "Clutch Lever Sw" is closed.

One other comment - if you must replace the diode and/or it's socket - Make sure to observe the direction that the Diode Symbol ( >I ) is pointing and which color coded wire goes to which terminal. The Diode is Polarity Sensitive....:)

Good Luck - Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks JK Mcdonald
Yes the diode was bad I could remove one of the pins. I have ordered a new one I will post update when I get the part. I have trying for weeks to identify that part Thank you very much.
 

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Start Relay Test -

Hey Evoyles - As mentioned earlier, the "Neutral Safety Diode" is pretty tough and normally does not fail - unless something in it's circuit path has caused an excessive amount of current to pass through it. I suspect that you will find that the winding or energizing coil of wire inside your "Starter Relay" has shorted and caused the Diode to melt.

As a precaution - Before installing the new Diode into it's socket - You should Test the Operation of the Starter Relay to verify it is not the root cause of the melted Diode.

This is called a "Bump Test" because you only want to "very briefly" bump the starter over to see if the starter relay itself 'Can Energize'.

1 Turn the Key to "ON"
2 Pull "IN" the handlebar Clutch Lever to close the Clutch Switch
3 BUMP the Start Button - to test the Start Relay
4 The Starter Relay Should Energize (close) for just a moment
5 The Starter should "BUMP" the motor over

If the Starter Relay is inoperative - they are simple to replace. One word of caution though - the Chinese Knock -Off Relays are notorious for having a short life and failing. Get an Honda Part for reliability - even a used OEM Honda Start Relay on Ebay is better than the Chinese part that can leave you stranded somewhere.

Good Luck - Michael
 

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Diode Ops Check -

Hey Evoyles - Did replacing the Safety Diode restore the operation of your starter with the transmission in Neutral ?

Ride Safe - Michael
 
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