Hey guys this seems like a great forum with good information. I have a chance to trade my 89 Honda Shadow 500 for a non running 79 Honda Goldwing. The bike looks good but it would not start. Its been sitting for a while as it has only 20,000 miles on it and the cables are sticky. The choke seems broken at the bracket and it leaks fuel when the pet cock is open. Are parts for these bikes expensive and even if I had to overhaul the fuel and ignition system what would I be looking at spending? Also is there a way to test this for more serious problems like bad headgasket/blown head?
1979 Honda Goldwing
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hello rrainey, welcome to GWOF. a wing thats been sitting could possably cost more to get running than buying one that is already running
Welcome from Massachusetts .I agree with buzzard. could be easyer to look for a running bike. I had a 79 for years and it was in rough shape ,but Im a mechanic and know my way around an engine. so didn't cost me for labor,just my time and parts.that bike has points unless it was converted to electronic ing. If it turns over but dosent try to start, start there .Parts are available mostly on ebay at good prices,or from the forum . theres a lot of instructions and videos to help repair these bikes. If you have the know how (or want to learn), money and want to take the chance,go for it . See if you can get it going before you buy it.At least you know it Runs thats a start Were here if you need us.Good luckIve found a few things like carb kits and cables online. Its a bit more complex bike than my shadow. But besides a carb rebuild and fluids change, what else could be wrong? I can check ignition easy I just want to know of any tests I can do to check for things like blown engine.
I rebuilt my Shadow from nothing and I built car engines so the know how is not a problem. Im fine doing just about anything except an engine rebuild, as that I do not have time for.
Also dont forget that this is an even trade for my shadow that I put a little over $1000 into including the bike itself.
I rebuilt my Shadow from nothing and I built car engines so the know how is not a problem. Im fine doing just about anything except an engine rebuild, as that I do not have time for.
Also dont forget that this is an even trade for my shadow that I put a little over $1000 into including the bike itself.
just like a car , take out plugs and replace them look for fouled or washed plugs .Pressure test coolant system,do a compression test,replace fuel filter,replace gas, and find out where the gas leak is . replace points and plugs, test battery and make sure you have spark.,.than give it another try. That will keep you busy for a while .
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Hello and welcome to the forum.
Change the timing belts and a leak down test too.
Change the timing belts and a leak down test too.
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Hey Ted thanks for the advice. What is the acceptable range for compression on these. Im going to do a compresion test and if that checks out Im going to do the deal.
Thanks for the tips guys. I went to go see it today. How many miles are these bikes good for?
Does anyone know what this is?
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200,000 - 300,000 miles or until you get the itch for something else
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Are there any lines running to it?
I'm thinking an oil pressure gauge.
compresion test
It should be 160 psi or more and all cylinders should be within 5 psi of each other. (They are a decent motor if all are above 155psi, a really good engine if they are above 160psi, and excellent at 165. You will almost always note one cylinder, usually number three, that is 3-4 psi difference) Below 145 is on the low side. 142 is rebuild time and they are truly oil-guzzling dogs at that point.
Heres a link that will help ya http://www.goldwingfacts.com/used1000.htm
What are those switches for ? funky wiring like that scares me ,you dont know what s going on till you get in to it. at the left of battery some one tried to do the , as we call it the 3 yellow wire connector fix , that's another story. Its in the link under electrical I sent you .
It should be 160 psi or more and all cylinders should be within 5 psi of each other. (They are a decent motor if all are above 155psi, a really good engine if they are above 160psi, and excellent at 165. You will almost always note one cylinder, usually number three, that is 3-4 psi difference) Below 145 is on the low side. 142 is rebuild time and they are truly oil-guzzling dogs at that point.
Heres a link that will help ya http://www.goldwingfacts.com/used1000.htm
What are those switches for ? funky wiring like that scares me ,you dont know what s going on till you get in to it. at the left of battery some one tried to do the , as we call it the 3 yellow wire connector fix , that's another story. Its in the link under electrical I sent you .
Sweet read! Thanks for that link. I was praying those switches were factory...I know about the stator wires my 86 Shadow has that same issue. Im going to do a compression check and check the cylinders for scoring/pitting/rust etc. if it passes these two I think Im going to be ok.(PRAYING) The guy seems honest and just wants to unload the bike as he bought it from two people who let it sit planing to restore it but never did. He just wants something cheap to ride to work and thought this bike was it. He's put on a new starter and new battery and then said he called it quits after that. I verified the battery and the starter does look new. I'll check it out today and let you guys know. You guys are awesome and veru knowledgeble. Thanks for all your help!
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does this wing come with a title
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Hi RainMan,
Good info being shared with you so far by our Forum friends. I'm not necessarily scared of older bikes, but agree that unless you're feeling lucky ("Well, do ya punk?" Dirty Harry) I'd like to at least know why it's not running before I bought it. And, time sitting is not the friend of rubber, gaskets, and rings. Anyway, if the deal is right, anything can work. I recently picked up a couple of older wings and the first one worked on, an '85 Aspencade is running really well after maybe 10 hours of work and $100. The '83 1100 seems simply to have a stuck needle valve/float (the old oil was about 50% gas) so it could be simple and it could be more than that. Best to know going into it what your exposure might be. There are plenty of bikes out there, including MadMike's. T
Good info being shared with you so far by our Forum friends. I'm not necessarily scared of older bikes, but agree that unless you're feeling lucky ("Well, do ya punk?" Dirty Harry) I'd like to at least know why it's not running before I bought it. And, time sitting is not the friend of rubber, gaskets, and rings. Anyway, if the deal is right, anything can work. I recently picked up a couple of older wings and the first one worked on, an '85 Aspencade is running really well after maybe 10 hours of work and $100. The '83 1100 seems simply to have a stuck needle valve/float (the old oil was about 50% gas) so it could be simple and it could be more than that. Best to know going into it what your exposure might be. There are plenty of bikes out there, including MadMike's. T
I've been there and done that with my 78 wing. I got it for a bargain price but put a ton of work and money in the bike. I would have been much better off just spending more money and just getting a running bike with no issues.
When I bought the bike it appeared to be charging 14 volts but the previuos owner had disconnected the headlight to make it appear that way. The clutch would chatter badly about every tenth time I would start out from a stop. My brother and I spent about 13 hours removing and replacing the engine to install a new stator ($125.00). The clutch also had to be replaced. I decide to remove the points and install electronic ign. ($135.00)and after looking over the wiring it was a electrical malfunction just waiting to happen. Had to replace the wiring harness (chewed up by mice). A lot of repairs along the way also,cables etc.
It was running ok so I didn't have to deal with any fuel issues.
It was not a bargain in the long run.
When I bought the bike it appeared to be charging 14 volts but the previuos owner had disconnected the headlight to make it appear that way. The clutch would chatter badly about every tenth time I would start out from a stop. My brother and I spent about 13 hours removing and replacing the engine to install a new stator ($125.00). The clutch also had to be replaced. I decide to remove the points and install electronic ign. ($135.00)and after looking over the wiring it was a electrical malfunction just waiting to happen. Had to replace the wiring harness (chewed up by mice). A lot of repairs along the way also,cables etc.
It was running ok so I didn't have to deal with any fuel issues.
It was not a bargain in the long run.
Hey guys thanks for the info. This wing does come with a title and the compresion test along with the scoring I beleive should tell me what I need to know about the motor. Ib be willing to do just about any work besides tearing into the motor as i dont have a garage to leave things exposed and uncovered.
Hey guys did a compression check and a thorough look over today. I dont know which cylinder is number 3 but one of them was about 159-160 and the rest were between 160 and 165 with the left rear one being 165. So it has good compression. The spark plugs looked good and I didnt see anything in the oil fill eighter. Needless to say I think the motor is good.
I did notice that the shift lever is awfully close to the head and its a tight fit for my foot down there. Is this normal? It also has foot boards which arent factory on these from pix Ive seen. Could this be the reason for the small clearance?
Those custom switchs toggle on and off some accessory lights on the front of the bike so no crazy stuff there. The only thing I noticed is that the turn signals and horn dont work.
The rear suspension felt awfully stiff as well. It dropped when I sat on it and that was all the travel I could get it to do. Is that normal?
That weird gauge taps into the shock and has a line running to the top of the other shock as well. Why is this done?
The engine and tranny have been painted and the bike itself has defintely been repainted or well maintained as the paint looks new. The frame also appears to be painted but not as new as the rest of the bike as it has some surface rust but I didnt see any cancer spots. The tank also looked good and may have been coated with some kind of protectant on the inside.
All in all I think it will be good. I just hope the stator and waterpump are good and this is going to be a great deal if all it needs is a carb rebuild and maybe some lines replaced. It def needs cables or maybe just some oil as the throttle sticks but Im going to have to see why the choke doesnt work. But, Im doing the deal tomorrow. Pray for me guys!
Hey guys did a compression check and a thorough look over today. I dont know which cylinder is number 3 but one of them was about 159-160 and the rest were between 160 and 165 with the left rear one being 165. So it has good compression. The spark plugs looked good and I didnt see anything in the oil fill eighter. Needless to say I think the motor is good.
I did notice that the shift lever is awfully close to the head and its a tight fit for my foot down there. Is this normal? It also has foot boards which arent factory on these from pix Ive seen. Could this be the reason for the small clearance?
Those custom switchs toggle on and off some accessory lights on the front of the bike so no crazy stuff there. The only thing I noticed is that the turn signals and horn dont work.
The rear suspension felt awfully stiff as well. It dropped when I sat on it and that was all the travel I could get it to do. Is that normal?
That weird gauge taps into the shock and has a line running to the top of the other shock as well. Why is this done?
The engine and tranny have been painted and the bike itself has defintely been repainted or well maintained as the paint looks new. The frame also appears to be painted but not as new as the rest of the bike as it has some surface rust but I didnt see any cancer spots. The tank also looked good and may have been coated with some kind of protectant on the inside.
All in all I think it will be good. I just hope the stator and waterpump are good and this is going to be a great deal if all it needs is a carb rebuild and maybe some lines replaced. It def needs cables or maybe just some oil as the throttle sticks but Im going to have to see why the choke doesnt work. But, Im doing the deal tomorrow. Pray for me guys!
Compression Great .the lever is bent make sure the shaft is not coming out of the eng cock eyed thay have been know to bend the shaft .Mine had floor boards when I bought it, first thing I got rid of. plus easier to put your feet on the ground with out them.if it looks ok take the lever off and straighten it out in a vice . You will have some rewiring for the lights but thats latter. Horn and sig check fuses.You Mite need new shocks look for leaks I changed mine on the 79 . jump up and down on seat make sure that it dosent bottom out. a little travel is normal ans stiff check front fork seals for leaks.the guage is to read the front fork air. does the guage have a reading or zero. if zero ??? but all in all it sounds like this po has taken good care of it . Its up to you do you want to take a chance knowing you are going to have to work some and spend some..when mI got my 79 running right I always had a smile on my face when riding it. hope this helps good luck..we are here if needed
Hey Ted thanks for the reply. I'm willing to do a little work. But seeing the compression and hearing it fire made me more comfortable with it. It seems like the stuff I may need is reasonablely priced on eBay.
I'll look at the shaft today, does anyone where those numbers are on the carbs to make sure they are the right carbs?
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I'll look at the shaft today, does anyone where those numbers are on the carbs to make sure they are the right carbs?
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Motorcycle.com Free App
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