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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if the '88 1500's headlight lens is held on only by the clips? Or is there some sort of adhesive?
I'm asking because the clips on the top are loose, I suspect that's because of heat at the top of the light has caused the "spring" in the clips to fade somewhat, also, the P.O. or someone put 55W/65W bulbs in there.:eek: I see in the specs there should be 45W/45W;
But, on closer inspection of the rear of the light itself..stamped in the case at the bottom it says 55W/65W but at the top of the case it says 45W/45W.
Am I to assume that either bulb wattage is acceptable?:confused:
Oh ya, yesterday I ordered two Piaa (sp?) super white anti vibration H-4 bulbs. As called out in one of the threads here,but, I forget the wattage.:confused:
 

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the clips are made of spring steel and it sounds like they are sprung. I would replace them. There should be about 4 on top and 2 on the bottom if I remember right.

I know that answer sux if you have to wait but it is important to maintain the bike like new when possible.

I don't know about the 55 watts, the draw on the battery is taxing on a bike that is already known to have a weak alternator. Obviously, it's done ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, there is a nice shiny NEW alternator on this puppy! The battery looks recent too..maybe that's why? I changed out the position lights to L.E.D.'s. I think the Piaa Super White shoulds match pretty well. +1 on the clips,but, do you know if anything else holds the lens in place?
I don't want to be prying on the glass to find out the hard way!
 

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This whole bike works like a jugsaw puzzle. sub assemblies don't look like it will hold together until it's all together.

These clips hold the lens to the back plate.
then the bracket across the top actually holds it all against the fairing and the bottom bolts hold it all at the bottom.

Before I tighten the 4 primary bolts, I do test the elevation adjustment knob and make sure it is retracted all the way before you install the lens assembly.

Sounds like you are in good shape once you have those clips.
BTW, hondapartsnation.com is pretty fast and aboutt 40% cheaper unless you are in a hurry and your local dealer is faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks l2r, I'm in no hurry; Actually I posted about the headlight adjustment yesterday, when I removed the headlight I found that the spring loaded plunger was dry and sticking, the spring couldn't overcome the sticky..so I lubed & freed it up..works very smoothly now, then I took the cable & knob apart..good thing, that big White plastic nut was split across the center,so I nailed it with some ZAP glue..good now.
I like to "tinker" and usually find stuff that needs attention...while the light was out I found the left air vent was just sitting in the fairing..not connected to the dash part..so that's good now too! This wing needs a lot of love, I'm gettin' there..:)
So, not to drag out:confused: the point,but, is there any adhesive on the lens???
BTW, thanks for the info on parts, in some cases it works out nearly the same price..or close when I add in the shipping & duty taxes etc...but I appreciate the info.
 

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no adhesive that I know of anywhere on the lens assembly.
 

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You 2 guys have this thread well in hand. BR you will love the H-4's, I did & can't believe more people don't use them. I think like L2R said the higher wattage scares people & they don't do it. Now on the newer 1500's there were plastic parts that the extra heat may bother but still don't know if it would be a problem.

Here is a very simple equation for figuring the load of any electrical device.

Watts divided by voltage equals amps.

Ex. 45/12 =3.75 65/12= 5.41 A difference of 1.66 amps. You will not have any issue with wiring ,switches, or alternator load.

This will be helpful to anyone if they are adding heated clothing. There you have to be careful to spread the load of the clothes to not over power wire & circuits. Again simple to figure add up the wattages & do the math.

This isn't subject to debate this is fact & you can use it at home or work as well.

If you want to know how much that electric water pulls in amps.

4500/230 = 19.57 amps. It's simple.

Anyhow good luck & like I said you guys had this worked out in the 1st place so sorry if I bored you.
 

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before replacing the clips make sure they arein the proper place on the head light and the tabs are facing twards the fairing
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks fossil; So, following your math I will have 3.75 x 2= 7.5 amps on low beam & 10.82 amps on high beams with a total of 18.32 amps:eek:
That sounds pretty high..yikes! It makes you think when you look at it by the numbers.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
before replacing the clips make sure they arein the proper place on the head light and the tabs are facing twards the fairing
Thank detdrbuzzard; I tried bending them slightly to make them tighter,but, there is no "spring" left in them..soon as I clipped them on they bent back,time to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BTW, when I got this wing it had two:eek: 55w Hella driving lights mounted under the headlight, maybe THAT'S why it has a new alternator & battery? That was my first mod to this bike..got rid of them!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the link, yes..they are on the right way, the 2 clips on the bottom are still very tight.
I figure it must be the rising heat of the 55/65w bulbs that are in there that took the spring out of the 4 top clips ; You can easily slide them back & forth.:(
 

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not just the right way but in the right location because its the only place the clips snap in ifmoved over the clips don't lock. i remover the clips thinking they had to come off to replace the headlight but they don't the headlight can be replaced from the rear of the assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep, they're in the right place & on correctly; I just took them all off..the lens IS glued on with something..it wouldn't budge! I put the two good clips from the bottom on top for now, till I can get replacements,but, that lens isn't going anywhere!:)
 
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