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My '96 1500 died on the road a few weeks ago and I'm trying to get it revived. It shut down like turning off the key. Have done a lot of trouble shooting and have a question about the gear indicator switch.
The manual says to check for continuity to verify operation. Neutral is good. 2,3,and 4th gear show about 60-70 ohms when connected, but 5th (OD) is about 5k ohms. Is there supposed to be this much difference? Would it cause an issue in the ECU and make the engine quit? :confused:

Thanks

p.s. the engine is not getting fire, but haven't found a short or open yet.
 

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Have you checked your kick stand switch, and maybe the kill switch. If the kick stand switch is the problem it will kill your bike like you stated. Hal
 

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Not sure about the switch question...

If you are not getting fire to any plugs then it could be the pulse generators gone bad. I had to replace mine. They are located where the timing belts are.
 

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Is the bike totally without power (lights, radio & etc.)?
Starter turn over?
 

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Have you checked the main fuse ? And the battery connections,not sure if bas would shut down all the power on your bike as I have a 96 aspy and have not dropped it (yet) haha. Hal
 

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When you say it's not firring, just so I understand. it's turning over but not trying to start or is it not turning over at all. Not being a jerk here, it just makes a big difference in the trouble shooting.
 

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Not knowing what all that's been done. If the Alternator died while riding, the bike will shut down. There maybe be enough power in the battery to turn the engine over but not enough for the ignition to start the bike. Had this happen to me a number of years ago.
Might try a freshly charged Battery, is it starts then check the voltage across the battery to be sure it's up over 14 volts. If it's not then you need an alternator.
 

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did you check the kill switch? wiggle it back and forth and see what happens.
 

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I'm going to start looking at the schemnatic.
I know at one there was a recall on the Bank angle sensor. The fluid in the senor would dry up and cause a running problem.
 

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Beat me to the punch Ron. Only thing that bothers me is the fact that he has no spark. My lead tech is off today so I can't ask for his thoughts. I'm sort of leaning towards ECU, but I also can't remember if the safety switches or BAS would stop the spark.
 

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If relay number 6 failed it looks to me like it would remove power to the ECU. No power to the ignition coils. or charred contacts in the socket.
 

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Beat me to the punch Ron. Only thing that bothers me is the fact that he has no spark. My lead tech is off today so I can't ask for his thoughts. I'm sort of leaning towards ECU, but I also can't remember if the safety switches or BAS would stop the spark.
The BAS, kill switch and relay are all in the power lead to the ECU, he states he has power to the ECU. Unless there is a ground issue on the ECU, or a bad connection on it or the pulse generators, it appears he has a bad one.
 

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I'm suggesting a continuity check for the Black/White wire that leads from the engine stop switch to the Black/White wire at the 4 place connector to the ignition coils.
From the same color wire at the engine stop switch to the same color wire at the ECM harness connector.
From same color wire at ECM harness connector to the same color wire at 4 place connector at ignition coils.
I'm thinking loose pin or a wire with an internal break.
A continuity check of the black/lt. green wire at the stop switch connector to the black/lt green of the #6 relay socket.
 

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If the wiring that the Lady suggests checks out. I'm going to go along with Cantankerous. If all the voltage are there and all the potential switch problems have been eliminated, it either a ground or the Unit, to my way of thinking. Doesn't mean it can't be something we haven't thought of yet.
 
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