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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone point me to a tutorial on bleeding the rear brakes on a 1500? Do I need to remove the left rear saddlebag?
I have a Mityvac bleeder to make things easier...
 

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Onless you have small fingers, that's the only why I've found to do it. Only once was I luck enough to get the vac hose on the bleeder.
Been toying with the idea of cutting a larger hole and making some sort plastic cover for it with a rubber gasket for a seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Onless you have small fingers, that's the only why I've found to do it. Only once was I luck enough to get the vac hose on the bleeder.
Been toying with the idea of cutting a larger hole and making some sort plastic cover for it with a rubber gasket for a seal.
Thanks, I saw the rubber cover over the hole in the left bag. There is no way I am going to get mare than a finger or two through there. Guess I'll be removing the bag.
 

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Just bled mine last weekend. Funny that my $50.00 repair manual failed to mention anything about an access plug, I just happened on it while removing the saddlebag. I agree not much room to work through the hole so I continued to remove the 4 bolts holding the bag on. Not a big deal to remove it and definately made for an easier and less messy job.
 

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Just bled mine last weekend. Funny that my $50.00 repair manual failed to mention anything about an access plug, I just happened on it while removing the saddlebag. I agree not much room to work through the hole so I continued to remove the 4 bolts holding the bag on. Not a big deal to remove it and definately made for an easier and less messy job.
I agree, the manual from my '75 Norton is more informative even considering you have to interpret the Queen's English sometimes!
 

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One another web site years ago. Some one posted that, once you've flush the brake and clutch system, if you change the fluid in the reservoirs every year and wipe them clean, you don't have to flush the systems every year.
A tip for a quick bleed if the clutch or brakes get mushy on you.
On the front Hand brake. Squeeze the lever a few times to pump it up then hold it in and tied it back with a strap, rope what ever. And let it set over night.
On the foot brake (rear and one front) pump it up and hang a weight off the peddle to keep it down. Again let it set over night.
On the clutch, you want to put a 3/4 inch spacer between the lever and hand grip tie the lever down and let it set over night.
It works I do this every spring keeps the brakes nice and firm and the clutch feeling strong.
 

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Nice tip Ron. I never heard of that but I'm always open to things that don't cost you money. I usually change the fluids every two years. I'm not sure it's needed that often but it's nice to look at clean fluid in the reservoirs.
 

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Nice tip Ron. I never heard of that but I'm always open to things that don't cost you money. I usually change the fluids every two years. I'm not sure it's needed that often but it's nice to look at clean fluid in the reservoirs.
A few years back one of my friends bought a beautiful used 1500. At our spring maintenance day we opened the clutch reservoir and it looked like somebody had dumped a mocha drink in there, it was about as thick Half and Half milk. It pays to look after that stuff.
 

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I agree, for the cost of the brake fluid it's well worth changing it. I bought my 1500 used less than two years ago and am fortunate that it was well maintained. The fluid was discolored, but not bad. Since the wings reservoirs on the handle bars just have the little sight glass it's hard to tell how bad the fluid looks without taking the caps off. My '81 650 has a clear/white reservoir and it's easy to tell when it needs changing.
 

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Help?

Tried bleeding the rear brake on my '99 SE yesterday. What an ordeal! Could not get the left bag off, even after removing the four bolts - seemed to be caught by trunk, so I tried removing that as well. No go.

Finally resorted to enlarging the access hole in the left bag. Got the MityVac hooked up, and got some fluid and bubbles out, but it did not seem to fix the problem. Brake pedal still seems unresponsive. Did I need to open the cover on both the master cylinder on the handlebar as well as the one near the battery? I only opened the one by the battery.

The foot pedal for the rear brake has not worked since I bought the bike last summer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick
 

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Tried bleeding the rear brake on my '99 SE yesterday. What an ordeal! Could not get the left bag off, even after removing the four bolts - seemed to be caught by trunk, so I tried removing that as well. No go.

Finally resorted to enlarging the access hole in the left bag. Got the MityVac hooked up, and got some fluid and bubbles out, but it did not seem to fix the problem. Brake pedal still seems unresponsive. Did I need to open the cover on both the master cylinder on the handlebar as well as the one near the battery? I only opened the one by the battery.

The foot pedal for the rear brake has not worked since I bought the bike last summer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick
Rick; for the future. In order to remove the saddle bag it is best to remove the the cover on the bottom of the trunk four screw across the back on the outside. Be careful of the tabs on the cover and the trunk. It can be very aggravating to get off and just as bad going back on.
Question: Do you have Driver floor board on your wing ???. If yes and the peddle is bottoming out against the board, you may have to remover the peddle and arm where it slides over the shaft at the bike and move it up one tooth on the shaft spline. One tooth move the peddle up a long way.
When bleeding the rear brake bleed the corresponding front brake that works with the peddle first, then the rear.

Be sure you don't draw the fluid level in the reservoir down to far, otherwise you are just sucking more air into the system.
Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I finally got around to bleeding mine, I used a Mityvac vacuum bleeder.
According to the shop manual, bleed the left front caliper first, then the rear. I did this and got a few bubbles out of the front and quite a bit out of the rear.
I have a full pedal now.
 

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Rick, I suggest you try the old fashioned method of bleeding the brakes by opening and closing the bleeder valve while pushing down on the pedal. If you can't push any fluid out while doing this you're probably looking at a master cylinder failure, time to rebuild it. In addition to what Ron posted about the saddlebag removal, you also need to disconnect the latch cable from inside the saddlebag and on the SE model remove the saddlebag lower cover and disconnect the brake and taillight connecters. Good luck...Jim
 

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Thanks again for your suggestions. I enlarged the hole in the saddlebag. I'm going to try the master cylinder on the front left handlebar. Looks like I'll have to remove the plastic cover on the wheel to get to the bleeder valve. Is there any procedure on a goldwing that doesn't involve removing 10 things to get to one?

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there any procedure on a goldwing that doesn't involve removing 10 things to get to one?
Rick
I have only owned mine a little over a month and discovered the same thing:D

I was going to remove that plug also but ended up taking the bag off. I'm glad I did, it made it much easier to access the bleeder and it really wasn't that hard, just time consuming. I could copy the pages from the service manual and send them to you if you like?
 

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Thanks again for your suggestions. I enlarged the hole in the saddlebag. I'm going to try the master cylinder on the front left handlebar. Looks like I'll have to remove the plastic cover on the wheel to get to the bleeder valve. Is there any procedure on a goldwing that doesn't involve removing 10 things to get to one?

Rick
The reservoir on the left handle bar is for the clutch. It has nothing to do with the brakes.
The reservoir on the right handle bar is for the right front brake only.

The reservoir for the foot brake (left front and left rear calipers) in locate behind the rear side cover on the right side.
When bleeding the foot brake star with the left front caliper, then the left rear.
Yes you have to remover the rotor covers to get at the front calipers
 

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Begining to think brake fluid flush is best done each time you change the rear tire, I've got pulling the whole rear section off down to about an hour to hour and a half. My son and I did the rear wheel bearings in under two hours. Rear tire just about every year for me!
 

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Thanks again to all who have responded. To Dirtymartini, I'd really appreciate you sending me the pages from the manual. Tomorrow I'm going to try to sort out the problem again. I'm also working on building a guitar, so my time has been a bit divided.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks again to all who have responded. To Dirtymartini, I'd really appreciate you sending me the pages from the manual. Tomorrow I'm going to try to sort out the problem again. I'm also working on building a guitar, so my time has been a bit divided.

Rick
I'll try and get them copied tonight for you. PM me your e-mail and I'll send them along.
 
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