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Discussion Starter #1
I can't believe it. It has only been 3 years ago and I think my 1200 has the right coil quiting on me. And I remember what a pain in the rear end. I have taken my 1200 aside out of ear shot and had a heart to heart. Anymore of this crap when I am 10 day's away from my one big trip for the year, will mean a very sad future for it.
Because of the miles that I have seen on some 1200's, I don't see it as a high mileage 1200. with 135,000 miles. It is the only thing that has saved it.
 

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Hang in there mate. I expect that you have a spare or two, just in case. I have had coil problems in the past, ranging from chafed wires to broken mounts causing ground problems. You have this, man.
 

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Don't be too hard on him mate, after all he's a down under 1200 and asked to do some things that an american 1200 is never asked to do.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Don't be too hard on him mate, after all he's a down under 1200 and asked to do some things that an american 1200 is never asked to do.:wink2:
Those Australian 1200's surely know how to dance.:surprise:
My spare coil is 1500 kms away and I will not be back for 8 weeks.:crying:
 

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Em, what about the kangaroo courier or the "flying doctor"?>:)


















Sorry, my bad,,,,:wink2:
 

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Neon Coils -

Hey Eric - Have you checked the resistor caps connected to each spark plug. They are supposed to be nominally around the 3k - 5k ohm mark. When a friend's barn find 1200 would hardly run, we found part of the problem to be that all the resistor caps were reading 12 k to 25 k. It also helped to repair a couple of wiring issues.

Once we had her running, we later replaced his original 30 year old coils with a couple of Dodge Neon coils. The OEM Honda parts have a very low internal resistance (.5 ohms) so needs the additional external 5 K ohm resistor caps to help control the circuitry current flow. (also supposed to help eliminate ignition static from the radio speakers). The Dodge Neon coils measured about 6 ohms so do not need the added external resistor caps. The primary reason we changed to automotive coils was price. The bike has been running great for well over a year now.

Good Luck - Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Eric - Have you checked the resistor caps connected to each spark plug. They are supposed to be nominally around the 3k - 5k ohm mark. When a friend's barn find 1200 would hardly run, we found part of the problem to be that all the resistor caps were reading 12 k to 25 k. It also helped to repair a couple of wiring issues.

Once we had her running, we later replaced his original 30 year old coils with a couple of Dodge Neon coils. The OEM Honda parts have a very low internal resistance (.5 ohms) so needs the additional external 5 K ohm resistor caps to help control the circuitry current flow. (also supposed to help eliminate ignition static from the radio speakers). The Dodge Neon coils measured about 6 ohms so do not need the added external resistor caps. The primary reason we changed to automotive coils was price. The bike has been running great for well over a year now.

Good Luck - Michael
I replaced spark lead wires and resistor caps when I replaced the coil. But I have a question for you be cause I am not good with electrickery.
Can you see a benefit in 1500's coils for the 1200's. I maybe able to get some 1500 coils from a wrecker.
 

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1500 Coils -

Hey Eric -The 1500 coil spec's have much more punch than the older 1200 coils. If you can locate some good used parts I'd go with them as an upgrade. Just check the coil body over real well for any age cracks or evidence of rust stains from water damage around the electrical connections.

We had located some"New Old Stock" Honda 1200 coils but - if I remember correctly - the total for both new Neon coils were only $28 vs well over $200 for the Honda dealer's OEM parts.

Good Luck - Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thankyou Michael, I think that I should be able to get some 1500 coils when we go back to Adelaide in October.
 

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Grounds -

Hey Eric - Before replacing any parts you might check both your coil's electrical connections under the false tank. Especially inspect and clean the primary frame ground points for the coils and ignition unit. I've seen a poor ground cause an assortment of very strange issues.

Speaking of "Odd Ball" stuff on high mileage bikes - have you compared the symptoms you get from a finicky Bank Angle Sensor or a somewhat Intermittent Ignition Switch. One frustrating afternoon I helped disassembled a friend's 1500 almost down to the frame chasing a misfire - only to have him finally mention "Oh by the way, it always happens right after he washed his bike". :)

Good Luck - Michael
 
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