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-   -   1981 gl1100 pilot mixture screws (https://www.goldwingowners.com/forums/18-engine-work/109530-1981-gl1100-pilot-mixture-screws.html)

kryten 03-28-2017 12:48 PM

1981 gl1100 pilot mixture screws
 
hello fellow goldwing owners
i have been rebuilding a 1981 gl1100 ,i have the engine running lovely on throttle but idle is very lumpy ,i have set the pilot mixture screws at two turns out ,but according to the workshop manual you have to turn one out another half turn and if the idle speed increases then the other three have to be taken out half a turn also ,but how can you turn the screws out with the carbs in situ?is there a special tool for this ?or a little trick ?i have tried various methods of doing this ,but un successfully ,how can you get to them with the engine running ?
any help or advise would be appreciated very much
regards to all kryten(keith)

Tatanka 03-28-2017 02:05 PM

Not familiar with that procedure. Do you have caps on the pilot screws that limit the amount they can turn? I had those on my '83 gl1100; a real PITA. Have you synchronized the carbs yet? Good chance a carb synch would smooth out the idle without adjusting the pilot screws beyond the bench setting.

kryten 03-29-2017 05:37 AM

hello mate
there are no caps on my mixture screws to limit how far you can screw them out ,i have tried to syncronise the carbs with vacum gauges but didn't work ,the workshop manual says that the pilot mixture screws have to be set before syncronising but as the screws come out from the bottom of the carbs and they're behind the inlet manifolds they are diffacult to get to ,gonna try using a cut down dumpy screw driver today ,but not very hopefull ,thanks for the reply

Tatanka 03-29-2017 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kryten (Post 1905258)
hello mate
there are no caps on my mixture screws to limit how far you can screw them out ,i have tried to syncronise the carbs with vacum gauges but didn't work ,the workshop manual says that the pilot mixture screws have to be set before syncronising but as the screws come out from the bottom of the carbs and they're behind the inlet manifolds they are diffacult to get to ,gonna try using a cut down dumpy screw driver today ,but not very hopefull ,thanks for the reply


The pilot screws only control the supply of fuel to the idle air flow. Based on what you've said about the carb synch not working, I believe you have a vacuum leak (assuming it's not a bad synch gauge), most likely at the large O-rings at the bottom of the air intake elbows.

kryten 04-02-2017 12:36 PM

hello mate thanks for your reply ,the o rings are new ones just fitted ,so would doubt if they are leaking ,the previous owner totally stripped the carbs so all the settings were lost ,i have checked all the carb innards and can find nothing wrong or missing,like i said it runs lovely on throttle but tickover is very lumpy indeed ,annoyed at myself really ,i managed to get the carbs on my z1300 perfect ,and they are a lot more complicated than the goldwing,ah well ,keep trying i s'pose

Tatanka 04-03-2017 02:17 PM

Have you come up with a way to adjust the pilot screws "in situ" yet? Might as well eliminate that possibility (low speed/idle jet too lean) from the picture.

If you adjust the idle screw, the one that raises/lowers idle speed, how high do the rpms have to be before the "lumpy" idle goes away?

kryten 04-05-2017 03:12 AM

hello again
no i still can't get to the pilot screws in situ ,and the lumpiness goes away at 2500 - 3000 revs ,really getting frustrated with it now and am tempted to use it and just put up with the lumpy tickover

TerraKacher 08-16-2019 09:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I bought a angled screwdriver from Amazon, cost about $20.

https://www.goldwingowners.com/forum...1&d=1566007260

it fits right under the carbs so you can adjust while the engine is running. IF you buy the angled screwdriver, it will be stiff at first, work it back and forth to loosen it up. There is a locking collar on it so you can adjust the height of the tip.


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