Bad Coil?? - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Bad Coil??

I have a 2004 GW1800 with 105K on it. It runs like a top. (except when it doesn't) which is 1% of the time.

I have posted this problem here before and gotten good advice. ("sounds like a coil problem")

When I am on a ride and stop for a hr. or so, the bike starts and runs on 4 cyl (I think) for 3 to 4 minutes. Then it picks up the other two cyls. and runs like a top again.

When I ride the Chief Joseph Highway between Cody, Wy and Cook City, Mt., the bike misses only when in a 10 mph switchback turn. As soon as you come out of the turn and hit the throttle it take off like a new bike. It runs great. But at each switchback it misses when applying an even throttle in the turn and returns to not missing as soon as you apply more throttle.

My questions today are:

1. Is this too much for me (with some mechanical ability (but not too much) to do myself?

2. What do you think it would cost to have a Honda dealer to fix?

I am kind of worried about having a dealer do it as I had one dealer said they wouldn't do it as they have never been that deep inside a GW 1800 because they never breakdown. (??)

I have also been on the web and the aftermarket coils are about $50 and the Honda part (coil) is about $250 to $300 per coil. (that's $750 for 3 coils

Anyone ever had a coil done on a GW 1800?

Thanks to all for your help in advance.

I truly hope you are all just beginning to smell spring.

Me, I still have 40" of snow (Yes 40") in my driveway (except where I plowed.) (one lane) and no room to put anymore snow!)

So my coil will have to wait at least another 3 weeks, just to get out of the garage. (I hope)

Happy Spring to all.

CK

PS. No I am not in my "Fortress of Solitude"
I'm somewhere in the "Snowed in Western USA"
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 05:59 PM
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Last spark plug change ?

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I put in new plugs as soon as the problem showed up. The plugs that come out were almost new, but I put new one's in and it didn't solve the problem, but now I have a spare set of plugs!

CORRECTION FROM YOU ORIGINAL POST:

I stated way to high a price for Honda OEM coils. I said $250 to $300 each <WRONG

I found them from Honda for $125 each. I'm sure other suppliers have OEM Honda parts for less. (I hope)

CK
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 06:25 PM
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I am not sure if it is a coil or not....... the coils going bad that I have had experience with (cars mostly).... they react the other way..... work when they are cool and quit when they get hot.

I would try this first.
With the bike on the center stand
Get the the covers off so you can get to the plugs and plug wires.
(have plug wire pliers on hand, mine are made of plastic, so you don't get bit)
Start the bike and let it warm up, and with it running, pull and replace each plug wire from the plug,
listening for two things: the change in engine rpm and how rough it runs, and the snap, snap, snap of each fire as you slowly replace the wire. Compare the sound of each and every plug, may take a couple of rounds.
Then, since you said problem is right after you kill it and restart...... do it the way that usually causes the problem.
Then with it missing, if possible, do the above procedure again......

Maybe doing this will establish which cylinder(s) is(are) the culprit(s)

Questions to answer:
Does the firing snap sound the same as you ease the wire back on..... or is one weaker now?
If more than one cylinder, Does the same coil operate both?
If the snapping of the electric arc sounds the same...... swap a holes with with two plugs (missing cylinder with non missing cylinder) and try again. Then you can start to narrow down....plugs versus wires or coils.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 06:28 PM
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Normally, a coil will get worse as it heats up. I can't imagine a coil breaking down at low RPM and clearing up at a higher RPM, that's backwards from how a coil will normally fail. This might sound like a silly question, but have you tried running Seafoam or injector cleaner through it? I may be wrong, but it just doesn't sound like a coil to me.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 06:34 PM
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https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemp.../ignition-coil

this is the layout of the coils and wires
three coils....... one fires the two front cylinders
one fires the two middle cylinders
one fires the two back cylinders


So if the miss is all on one side......starts to lend itself to something to do with the throttle bodies.....left vs right

or one of the injectors is getting lazy

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Last edited by dsurley; 03-17-2019 at 06:40 PM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 06:50 PM
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Can't say this is the same thing, but a few years ago a friend was having at problem with his 1800 running rough at low speed at time. He narrowed it down the O2 censer under the top cover forward of the gas cap on the right side and thought it was one the connections going bad. He wanted me to re-solder the connection, but what I found was with the wires held tight at the censor, if I moved the wires around it would still do it. We followed the wires back down the left side into a large wire harness. Removing
some of the tape we found were one of the wires was connected to two other wires with a crimp connector. Moving the connection around would cause the engine to stumble. I cut the connector off and solder the wires together and covered the connection with shrink tube, no more stumbling at low speed. The hardest part was getting the top cover to get at the harness. Might be worth a look.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 01:39 PM
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I don't think it's a coil either. Might be a fuel delivery issue at low rpm. Fuel pressure?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 05:32 PM
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Alternator Performance -

Hey Clark - Have you checked the charging voltage of your alternator once the bike is up to running temp ? Perhaps you may even have a marginal battery. What kind of electrical gadgets (load) did you have turned on - heated seat, grips, massage chair ?

Just a thought but at low RPM if your alternator output falls off, your ignition would be running off the battery. As you come out of a slow switch back curve, you open the throttle and build the RPM back up, a sickly alternator could restore (increase) the charging voltage and your ignition system is happy again.

Ride Safe Michael

Last edited by JK McDonald; 03-19-2019 at 06:02 PM.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 07:31 AM
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Since it seems to happen in switchback curves I would assume the bike is at a steep angle. What about a faulty bank angle sensor (I don’t know what year they began with those). You’re assuming it is running in 4 cylinders but any interruption in firing could be the issue.

Just a thought.

Steve



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