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1500 temperature regulation

7K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  Cantankerous 
#1 ·
new to my 1995 1500 goldwing... she ran hot on my first real test ride after i figured out i needed to jumper the fuel pump...

so a few miles out the engine began to run hot so i nursed her home slowly. coolant temperature fan switch proved faulty so fans don't come on when they should... i bypassed the switch to prove the fans good but now i have a question...

during normal operation do the fans run regularly to cool the bike or does the thermostat pretty much take care of that and the fans run only occasionally... lets just say ambient temps are 70deg f...

any thoughts or observations will help me understand the ole girl...
 
#2 ·
The fans should come on when the temp. gauge reaches about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way. At 70* that will almost never happen when moving.
 
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#5 ·
temp sensor in the lower tank of radiator turns the fans on and off
 
#6 ·
So as the men have responded to your questions, I will only say "Ditto" and Welcome to the GWOF from Pa.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Bike's History -

Hey Ark - There are lots of experienced owners here with many years of seat time. The difficulty in diagnosing a problem on a recently purchased bike - is that often the length of time it had been sitting is unknown and (if so) why it was parked. If the temp gauge on your bike shows that the engine is over heating while you're riding there is something going on with the cooling system. When I had my 96 1500 the cooling fans only came on when sitting in stalled traffic and the temp gauge reached between the 1/2 and 3/4 position. As a start you should :

1 Verify your coolant level is correct inside both radiators -
*If the coolant level is correct -
2 Chemically clean and flush the coolant system -
3 Flush out the chemicals using a water hose -
4 Replace the thermostat -
5 Install new anti-freeze and distilled water @ 50/50 mixture -

I realize that most radiator flush products (Prestone, Bars, Motor Medic, Blue Devil, etc...) recommend only leaving their chemical+clean water mix in the cooling system for about 20 minutes as the engine runs. If I suspect that the internal cooling system surfaces are heavily contaminated, I go through several heat cycles over a period of a day before draining. Then use a water hose to thoroughly flush everything out as the motor runs up to operating temp. With the engine shut down, let it sit long enough for the radiators to quit draining. Then add new coolant and check for any leaks. I've used this procedure for many years with no adverse affects to seals or water pump bearings.

Naturally there are professional radiator shops that can probably do a better job than a home mechanic but this seems to be sufficient for most applications. :)

Good Luck, Michael
 
#8 ·
NOTE!!!!!!!!
Be sure you use antifreeze that is Silicate, phosphate, borate, and nitrite free. That stuff will take out your water pump in 2000 miles.:frown2:
Check out Prestone's antifreeze in the yellow bottle. Mix 50/50 with distilled water.
 
#9 ·
wow, it seems so ridiculous but i trusted the seller and never checked coolant level. the seller told me he had it in to the local shop for an "all over" check up and i don't think most shops would have left that level low and the oil level so damn high... plus i am having to jumper the fuel pump to get it to run so have that to figure out too...

anyways after i felt the engine was hot and the radiators were not i popped the cap off and found the coolant level way low. I added the "dex cool" GM antifreeze stuff i had cause it said it was safe for aluminum blocks and rads... and she is now operating as described by all of you so thank you all very much.

i got a deal on this girl and know there are some kinks to work out but she's roadworthy and i am planning to do a solid fairing off "once over" this winter.
 
#15 ·
I added the "dex cool" GM antifreeze stuff i had cause it said it was safe for aluminum blocks and rads... and she is now operating as described by all of you so thank you all very much.

.


If this is the orange coolant, it is not compatible with the green that Honda uses. The different colors are not to be mixed. It says it right on the jug. If you want to run this type of coolant, then you need to flush out all the old coolant and use only the Dex Cool.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Coolant Leaks -

Hey Ark - It's great that you found your overheating problem was simply from a low coolant level. It's important to make sure there are no leaks anywhere amongst the spider web of plumbing on the bike. The GW coolant not only keeps the engine temp under control but warms both carburetors to improve efficiency and help atomize fuel delivery to each cylinder. Along with inspecting all the hoses - make sure to closely check for any seepage around the water pump housing.

To help sort out your new bike - you should order one of the Clymer Goldwing Maintenance Manuals. They are one of the best for the money - full of great step by step photos, a complete explanation of every component on the bike and lots of simplified troubleshooting steps.

Here is an example on Ebay if you are interested in a used one.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...313&_nkw=1995+goldwing+clymer+manual&_sacat=0

Good Luck, Michael
 
#11 ·
thank you for the tips Michael... i was able to download the honda factory manual and the owners manual and have been using them to work through my kinks... i will check out the clymer one you listed though cause those manuals tend to give you the human perspective on the vehicle.

she's running cooler and better every time i drive her but idle is still sketchy. better when warmed up but much still to do. exhaust chamber has a hole in it and like i mentioned i am jumping the fuel pump as the voltage from the ECU is not reliable... hopeful to figure this all out soon and have her give me confidence when i take her out she will get me all the way home
 
#12 ·
Sea Foam -

Hey Ark - Although there are many "snake oil" fuel additives on the market advertised to magically repair faulty carburetors and even rechrome your damaged crash bars with only one application - there IS one that actually does work.

It's call Sea Foam and in many cases after adding this cleaner to a couple of gallons of fuel, it has shown to produce a marked improvement in how a GW runs. Most owners whose bike has been set up over the winter swears by this stuff - but usually neglect to mention any noticeable ability to rechrome anything. :)

You might try a couple of doses -

Good Luck, Michael
 
#13 ·
Hey Ark - Although there are many "snake oil" fuel additives on the market advertised to magically repair faulty carburetors and even rechrome your damaged crash bars with only one application - there IS one that actually does work.

It's call Sea Foam and in many cases after adding this cleaner to a couple of gallons of fuel, it has shown to produce a marked improvement in how a GW runs. Most owners whose bike has been set up over the winter swears by this stuff - but usually neglect to mention any noticeable ability to rechrome anything. /forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

You might try a couple of doses -

Good Luck, Michael
I will second the sea foam, my 99 ran like crap when I got it, had to choke it just to start it and let it warm up. Still use sea foam on a regular basis. It may take a couple of tanks of fuel to get the the results you want. I use a half can per tank, for best results run the bike till your tank is low pour in the additive and tun the bike for a bit to get it into the carbs. I let mine sit for a day or so starting it and letting it run for 5 or 10 minutes then ran a tank of super in it. Now it starts without the choke minimal warm up for good idle.
 
#14 ·
i feel confident enough now with her that i have taken her to work these last couple days. i ran the tank low enough to put 3.6 gals in and added a fuel system cleaner from Lucas oil and an octane boost. i have used seafoam in the past but maybe just didn't see it on the shelf amongst all the other products when i grabbed the Lucas. I will pick up the seafoam next time though and run it regularly. after the few initial starts where she ran real rough she kicks right over now but can still idle a little inconsistently. and seems to skip a little. i wonder about the exhaust leak making it hard to tell. there is not much season left up here obviously so i want to get as much fuel and cleaners through her before the snow flies.

one question i do have and maybe should post on another thread ... does the ECU control idle and if the fuel pump signal is "iffy" where is the recomended place to buy new? or would you buy "used". and are there upgrades???
 
#16 ·
There is a possibility the that the kill switch is bad or has loose wires. When you jump the fuel pump, you also back-feed the ECU.
 
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