Oil smoke left side, only 1600 miles - Page 2 - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dsurley View Post
For instance..... in the 70s Chevys with automatic transmissions, there was a valve in the tranny that had a vacuum line that connected to the intake, when you went full throttle, vacuum goes to 0 and it allowed the tranny to down shift, when you let back off of the throttle, vacuum builds and it up shifts, if that diaphram ruptured, it would pull tranny fluid as fast as you could pull it thru a 3/16 line, smoked like a steam locomotive, and smelled like a burning transmission.
Yep, changed a few of those through the years, good old transmission vacuum modulator.

Candy Red 2004
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 07:53 PM
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It could also be the crankcase was way over filled. It would be hard for me to believe with only 1,600 the bike would have the problem previously suspected. But overfilling the crankcase is a common mistake.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 09:23 PM
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It could also be the crankcase was way over filled. It would be hard for me to believe with only 1,600 the bike would have the problem previously suspected. But overfilling the crankcase is a common mistake.
New bike or not, this is a known issue and it would take a lot of oil to cause it to be sucked into the air box without it being atomized. Since this is such a new bike, it may be a new malfunction that we haven’t seen in the last 18 years. If it is, it would be the clutch oil pressure regulator sticking closed and allowing full oil pump pressure at the clutch seal. That hasn’t been seen on this board or any other board that I know of. I’m hoping it’s just a manufacturing defected seal or the snap ring and the repair will be quick and painless. There was an issue with the snap ring groove in the early 1800s that wasn’t machined right and allowed the snap ring to pop out along with the seal.

Candy Red 2004

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 10:21 AM
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I don't know the American side of Honda tech, but I know the Honda Canada peeps quite well. If your local tech has put in a claim file, go with the recommendation from Honda. That's what your warranty is for.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 10:44 AM
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How The Oil Gets There -

I'm far from an 1800 expert but just the other day I had helped change the air filter on a 2015 GW - quite the ordeal. After reading about oil accumulating in the air box and causing smoke from the left cylinders I got out my Honda maintenance manual. Can anyone track the path of this high volume of oil consumed and the how/why it only affects the left intake throttle body ? I just can't seem to make it happen.

Thanks - Michael
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:50 PM
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I'm far from an 1800 expert but just the other day I had helped change the air filter on a 2015 GW - quite the ordeal. After reading about oil accumulating in the air box and causing smoke from the left cylinders I got out my Honda maintenance manual. Can anyone track the path of this high volume of oil consumed and the how/why it only affects the left intake throttle body ? I just can't seem to make it happen.

Thanks - Michael
The clutch seal in the clutch cover keeps the high pressure oil flowing into the center of the clutch pack while the engine is running and the pack is spinning. When the seal lets go from tearing or the clip pops out and allows the seal to move and leak, the system sprays oil at high pressure into the clutch chamber where it’s basically a mist of oil. This chamber is connected to the rear cover of the engine. In the top rear of the rear cover the crankcase vent is attached with a hose and runs to the air box. It splits into two hoses just before it gets to the air box. The engine vacuum constantly pulls the blow-by gases out of the block through this route and will also pull the oil mist from the clutch chamber. Usually this causes both exhausts to smoke because the mist is pulled into both sides of the throttle body and sucked into both sides cylinders. On occasion this can just start to happen and then the bike is parked on its side stand where the oil mist condensates back to liquid oil and collects on the left side due to the lean of the bike on the side stand. The next time it’s started the left side will smoke much more than the right. Most of the time we see this whole thing happen while driving down the road and both sides start bellowing smoke like a freight train. If the engine is run long enough it will pump most of the oil out and burn it before it fouls the plugs and ruins the cats. In the past this was caused by quality issues of the clip and the groove in the cover not fitting properly or not being installed properly. Another thing than can cause this to occur is the pressure regulator that keeps the oil pressure for the clutch at the level it should be. If it sticks or malfunctions the oil pressure back there can go as high as the pump can push it and that will most likely blow the seal lip out and give you the same symptom. The only bad thing about that, is the need to pull the engine from the frame if the regulator goes bad because it’s in the rear cover and not just in the clutch cover like the seal and clip.

Candy Red 2004

Last edited by Techdude2000; 08-23-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 02:48 PM
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Oil Pressure Assisted Clutch Pack -

Hey Tech - Thanks very much for the explanation on how a leaking clutch seal can cause such a large oil consumption problem. I've always liked to be able to understand the technical who-what-when-and-how everything works. On the 1800 I keep a"DNK" spiral notebook (Did Not Know) filled with information like this. My Clymer 2016 Goldwing 1800 maintenance manual has a great component by component description of each major assembly but didn't connect all the dots very well when it came to the whole interactive picture.

Most Goldwingers realize that using the engine oil pressure to assist in applying the force used to press the clutch disc pack together is an update for the 1800 to give the rider a lighter clutch lever pull. And this has been around for years on high performance race cars but I've always assumed that a integral design for every day use was changed to make it simpler rather than to add complexity. On the other hand - 1 or 2 failures in thousands of bikes is pretty darn good....

The repair of DKT's bike sounds like the motor may have to come out and the rear portion of the case removed if the pressure reg is defective and/or the clutch seal is leaking. At least it should be covered under warranty.

Thanks again - Michael

Last edited by jkmcdonald123; 08-23-2018 at 03:00 PM.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jkmcdonald123 View Post
Hey Tech - Thanks very much for the explanation on how a leaking clutch seal can cause such a large oil consumption problem. I've always liked to be able to understand the technical who-what-when-and-how everything works. On the 1800 I keep a"DNK" spiral notebook (Did Not Know) filled with information like this. My Clymer 2016 Goldwing 1800 maintenance manual has a great component by component description of each major assembly but didn't connect all the dots very well when it came to the whole interactive picture.

Most Goldwingers realize that using the engine oil pressure to assist in applying the force used to press the clutch disc pack together is an update for the 1800 to give the rider a lighter clutch lever pull. And this has been around for years on high performance race cars but I've always assumed that a integral design for every day use was changed to make it simpler rather than to add complexity. On the other hand - 1 or 2 failures in thousands of bikes is pretty darn good....

The repair of DKT's bike sounds like the motor may have to come out and the rear portion of the case removed if the pressure reg is defective and/or the clutch seal is leaking. At least it should be covered under warranty.

Thanks again - Michael
You’re welcome. They only have to remove the clutch cover to replace the seal and clip. It’s tight but very doable. The whole clutch can be replaced in the frame. He posted up on another forum a little while ago and was told the seal was improperly installed at the factory. My understanding for the oil assisted clutch was to make the clutch pack smaller with less mass which allows the engine to more freely rev up and one of the side benefits of this was a lighter lever effort being possible. Those Honda guys never tell their secrets...

Candy Red 2004

Last edited by Techdude2000; 08-23-2018 at 03:23 PM.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 05:30 PM
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I vote we keep Techdude2000 around for keeps....... sounds like he will be lots of help
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE, just got a call from the dealer. He said it was an improperly installed clutch seal.
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