2014 GL1800 Won't start - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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2014 GL1800 Won't start

I have a 2014 GL1800. Went for a ride the other day, bike started and ran fine. Parked her in the garage and went to start it today, nothing. Starter engages fine, bike will not start. When you first turn it on, you can hear the fuel pump run then stop. The FI indicator comes on then shuts off. Tried cranking for a longer time, still wont start. Tried the "flooded engine" method, still won't start. Fuses are good. I am at a loss at this point. Ideas?? Thanks in advance. Yes, there is fuel in the tank.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 08:31 PM
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but did you do the same as I did today..... first ride in about 3 weeks (toooo hot)
getting off of the bike and getting my mug from the cup holder, I guess I bumped the kill switch, and not so much it was obvious, but enough that it wouldn't start........ flipped the kill switch back and forth and put it in the run position, and wala, fired right up.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Siegfried View Post
I have a 2014 GL1800. Went for a ride the other day, bike started and ran fine. Parked her in the garage and went to start it today, nothing. Starter engages fine, bike will not start. When you first turn it on, you can hear the fuel pump run then stop. The FI indicator comes on then shuts off. Tried cranking for a longer time, still wont start. Tried the "flooded engine" method, still won't start. Fuses are good. I am at a loss at this point. Ideas?? Thanks in advance. Yes, there is fuel in the tank.
Put it on the side stand, in neutral, and crank it for more than 10 seconds and it should flash the engine light indicating a failure code. Count the long and short flashes. Long = 10, short = 1. If it’s a 19, then the crankshaft position sensor is bad or has a bad connection on its plug.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 02:08 AM
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Put it on the side stand, in neutral, and crank it for more than 10 seconds and it should flash the engine light indicating a failure code. Count the long and short flashes. Long = 10, short = 1. If itís a 19, then the crankshaft position sensor is bad or has a bad connection on its plug.
A question for you Techdude2000. When I park my 14 wing facing the sun on a hot day I will have a no start flashing code 19. When I push it into our air conditioned shop and pull off the front cover and go to use the labscope on the dang thing it starts and has a good waveform with no glitches. And it will start and run for several months before it will do it again. What is up with that. I have a new OEM sensor and gasket but want to know for sure that is my concern before I tear down and replace.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 07:15 AM
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A question for you Techdude2000. When I park my 14 wing facing the sun on a hot day I will have a no start flashing code 19. When I push it into our air conditioned shop and pull off the front cover and go to use the labscope on the dang thing it starts and has a good waveform with no glitches. And it will start and run for several months before it will do it again. What is up with that. I have a new OEM sensor and gasket but want to know for sure that is my concern before I tear down and replace.
Have you checked itís harness connector for oxidation? Have you pulled the shelter and checked the ECM connectors for oxidation? My guess is a little oxidation on the pins for it and warmth and humidity may be affecting the connections. I donít think the sunshine would change the temperature of the sensor itself on the inside of the engine.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 09:44 AM
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Clean the connectors and coat with dielectric grease.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Techdude2000 View Post
Have you checked itís harness connector for oxidation? Have you pulled the shelter and checked the ECM connectors for oxidation? My guess is a little oxidation on the pins for it and warmth and humidity may be affecting the connections. I donít think the sunshine would change the temperature of the sensor itself on the inside of the engine.
Well heck, I have some Honda dielectric grease. Guess I will change the air filter and grease some connections.

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1975 Honda GL1000 Mule deer really liked it
1982 Honda CM450E 118K when finally fell apart
2007 Yamaha V-MAX Rejetted Carbs made it scary fast.
2014 Goldwing Basic in black

Ride everyday except when raining (or snowing) on the way to work.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 04:29 PM
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Well heck, I have some Honda dielectric grease. Guess I will change the air filter and grease some connections.
Air filter ????? Did someone say change their air filter ??????

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 07:06 PM
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Clean the connectors and coat with dielectric grease.
Dielectric grease is used for insulating HIGH voltage connectors, used mainly for waterproofing and insulating the seals on the connections.
A better product is DeOxit D5. It cleans the oxidation and the prevents any further oxidation. Designed for use with low current and low voltage circuits.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Pulled the return line from fuel pump, hit kill switch, pumped for couple seconds and shut off, like its supposed to. Fuel is clear, no water or crap. Kill switch works, off, no crank, on crank. Just no fire. Even went so far as to talk to a honda tech, he said he never heard of such a thing. I'm at a loss. Guess I am gonna have to break down and take it to a shop.
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