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no neutral light, no start, 2010 1800

9K views 32 replies 9 participants last post by  NREMTP 
#1 · (Edited)
worked fine yesterday, today, no worky. I tried the obvious easy stuff, shifted back an forth multiple times, operated side stand multiple times, flicked start button and on/off switch and ignition multiple times, said a few bad words multiple times, Everything else seems to be working fine, all the lights work. Without taking the bike all apart, what shall I check next. 2010 1800

EDIT: I should also have said that it wont crank.
 
#2 ·
It should still start with the side stand up and clutch lever in....... just like if you stall it at a light.

Maybe if you actually move it around under power and shift gears.... then the neutral light will clear and work... crazy things do happen.
 
#4 ·
crazy question....... didn't on accident engage the reverse button
 
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#6 ·
trying to go thru all the stupid stuff I and friends have done.

question, does everything else power up like it is supposed to and do the head lights go out when you hit the start button?
 
#7 ·
yep, everything else works, yes lights go out,
but this time I noticed the PGM-FI malfunction indicator lamp comes on. Didn't notice it earlier today. It comes on for about 1.5 seconds then off, no other blinks. Did a search and found this. http://www.syncshop.nl/VTEC/DiagnosecodesVTEC.pdf
Right at the top for no blinks, engine doesn't start.......where are these relays mentioned? am I gonna have to take it to the dealer ? ouchy $$$$$$
 
#8 · (Edited)
I am sure someone on here has a honda service manual for your bike.... I have one, but it is for the 2012-up 2nd Gen 1800 and I know lots of stuff got moved so I know it won't help you.

May have to post another thread asking who has a service manual for your year Wing.

Some also have said they had trouble with the "bank angle sensor" which also kills the engine.

But I would try to follow up on the codes.

"wrote this before reading the link,,,,,, and one of the no blink codes is the bank angle sensor"
 
#9 ·
#12 ·
OK, stupid question, is the kill switch in the run position?
 
#14 ·
I know this might sound crazy, but hold the start button in and slowly move the kill switch back and forth. I just had to replace my right hand switch assembly because the kill switch had gone bad and was doing what yours appears to be doing.
 
#21 ·
From the service manual

If the neutral indicator does not light with the key on and transmission in neutral then pull the combination meter and check the black/white wire for battery voltage with the key on. This will be the number 2 pin with black/white wire. Test that pin to ground with volt meter.

If you don't have voltage there it all points to the reverse system. Or connectors.

Faulty reverse position switch

Faulty reverse shift switch.

Open circuit in the black/white and the black/red wires between the combination meter and reverse shift switch.

Open circuit in the black/brown wire between the reverse shift switch and reverse position switch.

Loose our poor contact of related connectors


If you do have voltage there, then:

Turn ignition switch to off.

Check continuity between the light green/red wire of the combination meter gray connector and ground.

Continuity yes:. Replace the meter assembly

Continuity no:. Faulty gear position sensor

Or open circuit in the light green/ red wire between the combination meter and the gear position sensor.


Or loose our poor contact in related connectors.



Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
took the assembly apart, sprayed it down real good with contact cleaner, then douched it with some wd-40, put it back together and after operating all the switches a few dozen times, success! Neutral light comes on, bike starts, go for a ride, cruise control won't set, so I'll have to work on that button some more, but most likely will end up having that assembly replaced. Cheaper to do it now rather than get stranded somewhere. Since they have to take the top half of bike off to change wiring harness, may as well change air filter while they are there.
 
#27 ·
I'm glad you got it going, that's great!

If you get in there ( the switch assembly) again, put some dielectric grease in there.
On all the moving parts.
Most Auto parts stores sell it.

A little dab will do. Use a tooth pick or something like that.

Spray the contacts with cleaner and operate them if you can while spraying and flooding it clean.

Good luck

Guy



Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
I "Try" to remember to work all of the switches and buttons several times at least once a month.

My previous Wing I was the 3rd owner...... never could get some switches to work..... but they weren't ones that I never really needed to use.
 
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#30 ·
Sounds like the reverse shift switch was dirty. It connects the power for the neutral light to the gauge assembly and the reverse relay. Without this power getting through the switch, it won’t crank the engine no matter whether it’s in gear or in neutral. It also would not have connected the power to the reverse control module to activate reverse.
 
#32 ·
I say use both, they each serve a different purpose, contact cleaner to dissolve corrosion, wd40 to lubricate and protect against corrosion, idealy tho, they are both a liquid under pressure to blow away and wash away dust and grime.
I opened up the assembly again and used more contact cleaner and more wd40, actuated all the switchs many times, everything is working again. YAY! Back on the road again. Thanks for yalls help!
 
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