No electrical power! - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Angry No electrical power!

Good day! I attempted to start my 2000 gl1500SE. I turned the key and Nothing, no power to the system. The battery is fully charged, I tested the system. The main fuses good, I found no bad fuses, tested while under load, from the bike. I have power to the fuse box?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 09:06 AM
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Is there anything cumming on, lights, dash ext .
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 09:36 AM
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If the lights work. Remove the two pop off panel on the right side look under the front one you'll see two large electrical connector on solenoid A , pull it out of the socket and give it a tap with a wrench. I know of three of these that have stuck. Then try to start the wing.

There are three relays/solenoids. In the relay box on the left side a blue colore relay #6 starts the sequence. It provides the trigger voltage to solenoid A. A passes the battery voltage from the battery and trigger voltage to solenoid B, which passes the start voltage to the starter.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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I have nothing for power, except. I did see faint light in the cluster and the radio indicator was lite, however no sound.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ron, the lights don't work!
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by joseph View Post
I have nothing for power, except. I did see faint light in the cluster and the radio indicator was lite, however no sound.

I suspect low actual battery amperage available. This may be due to internal damage of plate in battery, poor connection at battery due to corrosion. Also a battery bolt that is too long may prevent bolt from properly securing the cable to the post. A faint light anywhere could indicate also a poor ground connection to frame.

Wiggle the battery cables and also the key switch as the switch may also have a loose connection at the bottom of the switch or inside the internal switch itself.

Let us know as you proceed to eliminate or find the cause. Good luck and happy hunting.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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I truly appreciate the suggestions. However, I was like to be systematic. The bike was running fine prior to my adding a couple of lights, clearance type. As a rule at various stages of work I start the unit, as verification continual system status. I missed this one! Marks' first point LOW amperage? My analysis the amperage if the case drops after the battery. I checked the battery and connections past the main fuses. I cleaned and inspected the fuses. I have done the wiggle test several times. I used an electrical spray cleaner on the ignition switch. I have disconnected the new wiring as back tracking.


The hunt though challenging is far from happy!
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 12:47 PM
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Did you disconnect the battery while installing the new lights? I have had a battery cable go bad that visually checks just fine.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 12:48 PM
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This happened to a friend on a cross country trip we were taking. His 95 was running good prior to us stopping for breakfast one morning, came out to leave and nothing, checked the battery terminals all seem well. Then just for the heck of it he got out a wrench and gave each terminal a little more tightening barely moved the bolts and it started. Might give it a try.

Or get some contact cleaner and flush out the ignition switch. ( keyed switch)

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2018, 12:53 PM
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Also if it still has the old dog bone type main fuse take it out and make sure it isn't cracked.

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