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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 11:24 AM
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Yes there was a fix at this point. Techdude2000 from GL1800 forums (who is know as the GL1800 DR) said that the wiring and C25 connector could be the blame. He said it’s common that the C25 connector over time causes problems. Because the wing was constantly stalling and had 1 over heating issues because the fans didn’t kick on, made him believe it was an electrical problem. After examining, cleaning, disconnecting/reconnecting the C25 connector, checking for loose wires and the entire harness, I must have triggered something. I let it idle for 1 hr and took 2 20 mile trips with it and had zero problems and the fans kicked on when they needed too. I recently took a trip that was over 7 hours, over 350 miles with my fiancé, in 85 degree weather, with stop and go traffic, and the wing had no problems. So at this point it is fixed. It surely would have shown it’s ugly face after all that. Techdude said if it comes back that the problem is obvious, it’s the sensor loop down the engine or the C25 connector will need to be “re-done”. So to answer your question she is up and running, whether I fixed it permanently or by “accident”.

Glad you're up and rolling again.

What/where is the 'C25 connector'?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by edmKC View Post
Glad you're up and rolling again.

What/where is the 'C25 connector'?
Under the seat, near the relay box. Mine was wrapped up in electrical tape along with the rest of the wiring harness. If you just feel around for it, you will find it.
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2006 Honda Goldwing ABS
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 11:27 AM
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Thanks for that.

2006 Honda GL1800
2012 Ural Patrol

Previous bikes:
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1983 Suzuki GS850G
1982 Yamaha Vision 550
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 04:58 PM
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One thing I really don't like about all this new technology bundled into tight places is the possibility that wires can get pinched or cracked and where do you start in the gremlin search? A shorted circuit can cause ridiculous problems if it goes sideways. The picture is when I replaced the air filter on my '09, and in the process, I discovered a bolt end had worn through the protective rubber coating on the wire harness. Lord knows what that would have shorted out in the middle of nowhere....
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 05:31 PM
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Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 09:42 PM
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Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
I had that shortly after I bought my 09. The remote key chain fob wouldn't work, and it ended up being a broken wire where the wires flex on the trunk lid.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Robertson View Post
Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
There’s no trunk light wires in the hinge harnesses except for the spoiler light brake light circuit, but the trunk lock control unit has its wires running through the right side hinge area and it shares the ground circuit with all of the rear lights on the bike. A common failure point for the rear ground circuits is a bad connection that develops in the gray 14 pin connector under the seat, near the trunk. The solid green wire will get loose in the connector and start generating heat until it melts the connector and completely disconnects itself and possibly damage the connector to affect other wires running through it. The fix for it is to solder a permanent jumper across the connector on the green wire, bypassing the bad connection. Be aware there are two large gray connectors under there, one has only 12 wires and it’s not the problem child, the 14 wire one is the connector of interest. This is a common failure of the 01-08 year models. Towing a trailer without an isolator in the lighting circuits will accelerate the failure.

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog Breath View Post
Yes there was a fix at this point. Techdude2000 from GL1800 forums (who is know as the GL1800 DR) said that the wiring and C25 connector could be the blame. He said it’s common that the C25 connector over time causes problems. Because the wing was constantly stalling and had 1 over heating issues because the fans didn’t kick on, made him believe it was an electrical problem. After examining, cleaning, disconnecting/reconnecting the C25 connector, checking for loose wires and the entire harness, I must have triggered something. I let it idle for 1 hr and took 2 20 mile trips with it and had zero problems and the fans kicked on when they needed too. I recently took a trip that was over 7 hours, over 350 miles with my fiancé, in 85 degree weather, with stop and go traffic, and the wing had no problems. So at this point it is fixed. It surely would have shown it’s ugly face after all that. Techdude said if it comes back that the problem is obvious, it’s the sensor loop down the engine or the C25 connector will need to be “re-done”. So to answer your question she is up and running, whether I fixed it permanently or by “accident”.
AS an Automotive Master tech I keep telling people I just fixed it by accident
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