Brake have closed up preventing install - Page 2 - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 04:18 PM
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Bleeder Valve -

Hey D - There several excellent methods discussed here used to back off and/or bleed the GW brake caliper pistons. Sorry if I didn't make the procedure I use clearer when I mentioned cracking open the caliper bleeder valve while the pistons are being compressed.

As mentioned - I always inspect inside the piston boot before using the "C" clamp so no contamination or corrosion (if present) is allowed to follow either piston down into it's inner seal. I then remove the brake pad opposite the pistons. Then place a small "C" clamp against the remaining brake pad resting on the two caliper pistons. As I gently tighten the "C" clamp, I then crack open the bleeder valve to allow a small amount of brake fluid to escape through a piece of old vacuum hose. Then close the bleeder valve before releasing the "C" clamp. Of course the master cylinder reservoir level must be topped up slightly to replace any brake fluid that's been released.

Although some may not feel it's necessary - I always bleed the complete brake system every time the calipers are reinstalled just to firm up the performance of the brakes.

Because of their nose-up angle on the handlebars, usually it's the clutch/brake master cylinders that are a bit temperamental during the bleeding process if their lines have been opened. For the best results, I've found this does require that the 12mm banjo outlet bolts are quickly opened/closed as the master cylinder lever is held against the handle bars. This will usually remove the remnant of any potential air pocket if there is any.

Michael

Last edited by jkmcdonald123; 07-28-2018 at 04:21 PM.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmcdonald123 View Post
Hey J - You might try slightly cracking open the bleeder nipple while you press the caliper pistons back in their bore. Attach a short snug fitting piece of vacuum hose onto the bleeder to direct any brake fluid away from the pads and into a catch can. Also I usually carefully lift the caliper piston boot seal edge away from the piston and shoot in a little WD-40. This helps to lightly lubricate the inner piston surface and you can inspect the piston for any corrosion. If there is any grit or corrosion is found under the piston boot - a complete tear down and cleaning is required for safety.

Once the calipers are reinstalled - make sure the brake reservoirs are at the correct level.


Good Luck - Michael
Never ever use petroleum products on brake caliper seals either the square cut seal or the outer seal. Bad things happen like caliper lockup. I have seen too many autos have to have every single brake component replaced when oil gets onto these seals. It makes ALL the rubber components swell up causing replace of master cylinders, rubber hoses and calipers, just from a couple of drops of oil.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 05:11 PM
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Thumbs up WD40 - Not

Hey J - I guess I've just been lucky when using a little WD40 as an initial step to flush out any grit I find inside my caliper boots. I realize this is probably not necessary but I usually disassemble, clean and install new caliper seals when it's time for another set of new long life Ceramic pads. I bought a tube of Brembo grease many years ago which I use to lightly lub the pistons during installation. I'll change my ways and keep WD40 away from my caliper seals from now on.

Thanks - Michael
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 10:04 AM
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Many of us know a member that would likely take your unused WD40 off your hands....
Cantankerous and NREMTP like this.

grab all the kicks you can baby, you only make this scene once!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 08:02 PM
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If you take the cap off the reservoir be sure to wrap the reservoir with a rag and make sure everything around the reservoir is covered with a rag or two. You do not want any brake fluid to hit any plastic or painted surfaces. If any does, clean it up immediately.

I took mine to a local dealer to get the brake recall taken care of last year. They would work by appointment, so at the designated date and time I rode down to the shop. Unfortunately it started pouring down rain about a mile into the trip. A half hour later when I arrived at the shop I was soaked, and it was still raining. The mechanic did the recall, but they got me for tires and brake pads, front and rear. Not the free recall I thought I was going to get.

I rode home in the rain and of course everything was wet when I left the shop and when I got home. A couple weeks later I went to ride the Wing and noticed spots all over the fairing pocket, it had even splashed down on the chrome side cover and blown back on the side of the trunk on my ride home. That's when I realized the mechanic was sloppy with his brake work and brake fluid had splashed many places. When the bike was soaked in the rain I didn't notice anything. So now I have a whole lot of parts that are ruined, and not the beautiful bike that I took to the shop.

The worst part was I tipped the mechanic $50.00.

I really hated to take it in for the recall because nobody ever touches my bikes but me. I figured what could go wrong, it's a Honda dealership that's been in business forever? The old adage, if you want something done right, you better do it yourself really applied in this case.
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