Oil change - stripped plug - Page 2 - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 08:24 AM
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The usual issue with drain plugs is they are steel, and the drain hole in the engine block is aluminum. It may not seem like much, but the torque can not be exceeded on that bolt, 25 lb/ft max. Haven't seen any bikes with the bolts twisting off, but lots of ATVs get over-tightened by backyard wrenches and stripped threads in the holes. That is a real difficult fix that often keeps re-occurring once it happens.
Good advice on removing the shank of the bolt, be very careful and steady and you should be fine. We're fortunate to have a guy on staff that is really skilled at removing broken bolts, he's a godsend.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Fortunately, the head did not shear off. It's just kind of rounded. I'm hoping the dealer will be able to grind some flat spots on the head, and maybe grab it with an open end wrench of a slightly smaller size.

Thanks for the advice on the Easy Out method. I did this on a seat bolt with a stripped head. I wasn't exactly square going in, but fortunately, I did no damage to the female threads.

I'll let you know on Tuesday how I made out at the dealer.

Richie
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 04:47 PM
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A pair of knipex cobra pliers can usually grab and remove.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 09:49 AM
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Large Hammer and Chisel

Hey liflyboy, If trying to grind some edges back on to your oil plug doesn't pan out, Vice type Grips, TIME-SERT, the Easy-Out procedure or a big A$$ hammer and chisel .... doesn't help to remove the drain plug - there is one other method I've used.

Since it sounds like there is plenty of the bolt head remaining above the surface of the engine case simply place a similar sized steel nut against the rounded portion and mig weld the two together. The negative electrode is connected through a pair of vice grips that is holding the new nut in place - while the positive welding rod (wire) lightly fills the new nut's interior space. Once the nut and rounded bolt head are attached and still reasonably hot (the aluminum case will have expanded more than the steel bolt) your oil drain plug should now be easily removed.

One final step in the Mig welding process is to "Remove your battery Ground cable and disconnect the ECM computer. I haven't had any stray current issues while using this procedure on six occasions but - just to be on the safe side.

Good Luck, Michael
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Last edited by jkmcdonald123; 05-25-2018 at 10:26 AM.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 03:08 AM
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Lowes sells a wrench that will grab that head no matter how rounded it is. Worth the few $$ they want for it. The Honda shop may not want to take on your job. Better check with them before you make a final decision.


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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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So, as promised, here's the report. Took the bike to Honda, told them the plug head was stripped, he said, "ok, then you want a new drain plug?" I said, "YEAH". Never heard any more about it! I don't know what or how, but it's fine now.

Thanks for all the advise. I'll be a lot more careful about using the 6 pointed socket, and not over-torqueing the plug.

Richie
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 07:28 PM
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Routine Repair For Some -

Hey liflyboy - Glad everything worked out for you OK - If you don't see any dings, dents or missing chips in the engine case the dealer obviously knew what they were doing and didn't have to resort to the Big A$$ Hammer and chisel method .....

Ride Safe -Michael
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmcdonald123 View Post
Hey liflyboy - Glad everything worked out for you OK - If you don't see any dings, dents or missing chips in the engine case the dealer obviously knew what they were doing and didn't have to resort to the Big A$$ Hammer and chisel method .....

Ride Safe -Michael
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